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Old 03-30-2014, 03:30 PM   #16
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They are called Mansfield II. Here is a link. http://www.midwestmanufacturing.com/...&productId=453

By the way thank you for all your help
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Old 03-30-2014, 04:03 PM   #17
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Manufacture only recommends 30" so you're pushing it as 36" I would glue every block.
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Old 03-30-2014, 04:15 PM   #18
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I actually do plan on only making a 30" wall to stay with the manufactures recommendations. I was just rounding up. Is this block no appropriate for backfilling a wall because that would make my wall even lower.

If I rent a bobcat do I need it to have treads. I liked the idea of a dingo or as i mentioned ditch witch makes one that is a little bigger and more powerful. The learning curve on them seems easier and it is smaller to move around. I figured the best way to cut into the hill go from the bottom of the hill and move up. I don't know if the bobcat will fit. I would be nervous about having the bobcat parallel to the hill for fear it may roll over.

What do you think.

This is a link to the ditchwitch.

http://www.ditchwitch.com/sites/defa...K500_SK650.pdf
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Old 03-30-2014, 05:00 PM   #19
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That grade may be a little to steep for someone with no experience with bob cat. It might be worth getting a quote from someone to dig it out. I dont know where you are moving to dirt too but its is going to take multiple days with a walk behind and it still is a steep slope for a walk behind
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Old 03-30-2014, 05:45 PM   #20
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Do you not think that I can just make a small retaining wall in front and push some dirt forward and then make another retaining wall in back.
If i do it yah way it will be about 4yards of dirt. If I back cut all of it it will be about 8 yards of dirt.
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:25 PM   #21
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The attached image is what I would like to do:

Does that seem manageable. It seems like I can rent a wacker packer to compress the fill area.
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:38 PM   #22
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If you weren't adding pavers it would be a great idea. Even with tampering it will still settle a little or alot depending on how good you tamp it. If you add a 2' wide flower bed then start pavers you will have a better chance if you tamp it all every 6" of dirt you add.
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:36 PM   #23
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Are you using the word paver meaning that the blocks are just stacked rather than being one unit. Can you explain the flower bed idea more. I think if I do it this way she front wall will only be a foot to a little over a foot high.
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:44 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leonidsg View Post
Sorry forgot to mention that. They are interlocking blocks. I also purchased pavers base and backfill gravel. As well as a perforated pipe for drainage.
I thought you were installing pavers in the leveled out area. Meaning a patio
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:08 PM   #25
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Oh I'm sorry no I'm putting a garden there. Sorry I must have forgotten to write. My apologies.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:20 PM   #26
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You said garden then you said you got pavers I got confused. Go ahead, do it that way then. Would still be a good idea to tamp down dirt make sure to leave area for gravel.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:26 PM   #27
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Sounds good. Sorry about the confusion. Should I get a big tamper or just a hand one. Do you still think I need a bobcat or can I get away with a smaller walk behind thing.

Thanks for all your help. It helps me a lot.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:55 PM   #28
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Small walk behind would would probably be best with your slope and soil conditions and now less dirt removal. It is recommend that you use a Vibroplate Tamper for the footings so depending on how fast you work. I would use it on backfill too. The buck of the walk behind should do a decent job of compacting a few inches of dirt at a time.
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