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Old 09-07-2015, 04:57 PM   #16
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Can I put the junction box in the attic?

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Old 09-07-2015, 06:26 PM   #17
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It is indeed a bad plan, and against code, to put a junction box inside of somewhere that's not accessible. It's perfectly fine to put one up in the attic to be used as an in-between point for whatever new wire length is needed. As long as that box remains open to a place where someone could get to it.

The point of not having a hidden junction box is to avoid having wire connections hidden somewhere. Any time wires are joined code requires that be inside an enclosure. And that there's a way to get into that enclosure in order to inspect the connections. There are some narrowly defined cases where in-line splices could possibly be utilized but for DIY/homeowner purposes it's best to stick with junction boxes. The boxes are typically less expensive anyway.

But it looks like you've already got it moved, so is there even a need for a box? If you have enough slack/length of the existing wire then just move it to where ever works for you.
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Old 09-07-2015, 06:28 PM   #18
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If code states it needs to be a certain height off the ground I want to make sure that I meet code, mainly so when I sell the house I don't have any questions..

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Old 09-07-2015, 06:37 PM   #19
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It's a bit of a stretch to think code will matter for something like this, or just about anything, when it comes time to sell. Lots of folks get their underwear in a bunch wailing about how there will be some dire consequences when it comes time to sell if something isn't "done to code". Code isn't law, but it's a damned good set of guidelines when it comes to building things. There are some localities that require work be done in accordance with code, but this does not make the "code" equivalent to legislative law. There's no "code police" going to swoop in during a sale and invalidate anything.

So stand down on worrying about that, especially not for something THIS trivial.

Besides, if/when you get around to selling, what matters more is whether or not there's clear signs that work was done, and whether or not there were permits issued/inspected for it. Do a good job, make it look good, and nobody's ever going to have need to care.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:19 PM   #20
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I think I am going to move it down, junction box in the attic just to make it appear there was no work done..

Any who, got the old header out of the way and the new one installed..
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:29 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mchipser View Post
I think I am going to move it down, junction box in the attic just to make it appear there was no work done..
Given how much else is going to get done, that seems a bit like a waste, but hey, it's up to you. Think about it, who's going to walk into the space (other than you) that's ever going to notice an outlet's position?
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:12 AM   #22
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How much leeway is there with the rough opening of the door? At first I was going with the 2" wider than the door (48+2=50") but when I want to HD the door said 50.5" should I be worried about that extra half inch? I assume the molding will cover it..

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Old 09-08-2015, 08:27 AM   #23
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When you mount a door you typically shim in-between the jamb and the rough opening. That and the closer you get to the door, the closer your drywall screws can be anchored. It's best to keep any overhang of the drywall to 1/2" or so.
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Old 09-08-2015, 08:04 PM   #24
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Had my helpers helping me clean up before I get the drywall tomorrow..


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Old 09-13-2015, 07:07 PM   #25
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The wall is tapped, floated, and textured..

I had a friend come over and help me with finishing the sheetrock..





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Old 09-27-2015, 12:09 AM   #26
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Painting complete, need to install the trim and then do the touch up paint on the trim.. Then need to figure out what flooring I'm going to get..

Thanks for all the help!!






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