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Old 09-03-2015, 09:05 PM   #1
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Widen Closet Door


So we are having another munchkin soon and I wanted to get the current spare room available for the new arrival. The closet situation in that room is very odd, 7' in length, 2' in depth and only a standard 34" door which leaves a ton of unusable space, unless I wanted to move things around getting stuff in and out..

I am pretty positive the wall is load bearing, so my plan to to build a temporary wall on both outside of the closet and inside the closet during demo, and during the widening. Placing a new header and framing in the new door, then I can remove the temp walls.

During this I am also having to move an electrical outlet, but i also want to put a light in the closet.. Can i wire it from the current wall socket I am having to move anyway?

This spare room is also fairly long and only has one fan in the ceiling, so i was planning on removing the current fan socket and splitting the room into thirds and adding 2 fans..

After I was done with the door, lights and fans I was going to have a drywall guy come in and tape, float, and fix all the holes in the walls (old fan location, current TV location, and sheetrock around the door / closet)

Does all this sound like a good plan? I got one quote so far to have someone else do it, and I think it was a little outrageous..

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-03-2015, 11:30 PM   #2
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If you cut a hole in the closet ceiling you can look and see if the wall is load bearing. May save you some money and time.
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Old 09-03-2015, 11:31 PM   #3
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I know it is load bearing by looking in the attic, since this is a one story house..

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Old 09-03-2015, 11:50 PM   #4
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I know it is load bearing by looking in the attic, since this is a one story house..

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So you're saying the ceiling joists are running perpendicular the closet door wall? That would be a load bearing wall. Parallel to the wall would not be load bearing.
"Since it's a one story house " doesn't make it load bearing.
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Old 09-04-2015, 01:26 AM   #5
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I don't see why you would have to build a temporary wall on the outside and inside of the closet.The main factor would be is the roof joist and rafters or is it trusses.If joists are they spliced on top of this wall?Some pictures of the structure would sure help.It's easily doable either way.I would not want to give an uniformed opinion or have you do more work than necessary either way.
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Old 09-04-2015, 06:19 AM   #6
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Quote:
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So you're saying the ceiling joists are running perpendicular the closet door wall? That would be a load bearing wall. Parallel to the wall would not be load bearing.
"Since it's a one story house " doesn't make it load bearing.
Yes they run perpendicular to the wall, I'll get up in the attic to take pictures once I have some time..

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Old 09-05-2015, 07:11 PM   #7
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Yes they run perpendicular to the wall, I'll get up in the attic to take pictures once I have some time..

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You can see the support braces from the roof tied in the that wall here

Widen Closet Door-uploadfromtaptalk1441498235390.jpg

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Old 09-05-2015, 07:19 PM   #8
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You do realize this photo does not relate to the closet wall underneath. It's just a photo of an attic.
Open the wall, put in a header of a 2x 8 to carry the load and put in 2- 24" doors.
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:45 AM   #9
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Opened the wall.. Now to go buy some materials..

Widen Closet Door-uploadfromtaptalk1441550697801.jpg

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Old 09-07-2015, 09:20 AM   #10
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So hit the first snag.. I'm not sure how to move the outlet since the wire is encased in the fire block foam.. Widen Closet Door-uploadfromtaptalk1441635574856.jpgWiden Closet Door-uploadfromtaptalk1441635618583.jpgWiden Closet Door-uploadfromtaptalk1441635636735.jpg

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Old 09-07-2015, 11:14 AM   #11
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If there's enough slack in the wire then just move it. Potentially by pulling the wire back up to the attic and then back down through a new hole. If the wire's not long enough then consider adding a junction box in the attic and extending the wire to wherever you want to put the new outlet. Obviously you should turn the power off (via the electrical panel) to the outlet first!

Fireblocking foam is often reddish in color. If you need a new hole then fill the old one and around the new one from a can bought at your local hardware/builder store. Just be mindful that crap sticks to everything, don't get it on anything you don't want ruined.
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Old 09-07-2015, 12:22 PM   #12
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Electrical outlet has been moved and the new light is operational.. I didn't have enough slack to put the outlet in the same exact spot as the standard location, is that OK? Or should I go the junction box route? I still need to staple the wire down also.. Widen Closet Door-uploadfromtaptalk1441646519130.jpg

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Old 09-07-2015, 12:56 PM   #13
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It's your house, you're free to put the outlet where ever you'd like. Following code is always a good thing, safety-wise. And standard placement lends itself to people being able to use things in an expected way. But moving the outlet up/down a bit isn't going to be much of a problem.

One note of caution, the wires on the right, be sure to remember they're attached that way. You'd want to avoid putting up wall fasteners (hooks, nails, shelves, whatever) later and hitting them.

That's quite a Dusty Deputy rig you've got there! I've got one of them on my Festool CT26 and it does a fantastic job.
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Old 09-07-2015, 04:17 PM   #14
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I think I'll add the junction box just to make it right..

I built the vortex cart based on Jay Bates plans..

http://jayscustomcreations.com/2015/...one-shop-cart/

I'm jealous of any tool with the name Festool..

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Old 09-07-2015, 04:56 PM   #15
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It's against code to hide a junction box in the wall.
If you want to extend the line, go into the attic and run a longer piece of wire.
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