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Old 07-14-2015, 10:22 AM   #1
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Small Bathroom Update - gift for out of town parents


I have 2 water lines coming out of the floor and a drain line in the wall...

Are there any tricks to installing the cabinet (30 inch) over these 3 lines without going into the drywall or cutting below the sub floor

From the wall to the water line is about 1 inch

***to be finished within a few days before my parents get back in town
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Old 07-14-2015, 02:17 PM   #2
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I will defer to a real plumber when one comes along, but is there a basement? If you can see those water pipes down below you could cut them in the basement, slide the cabinet in to the drain then drill up from below for the water, drop the pipes through and sharkbite them. or solder if your inclined.
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Old 07-14-2015, 02:30 PM   #3
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Small Bath Update


Thanks for the reply thats what I was going to do at first but I am not sure there is enough room for the Sharkbite or compression coupling on the hot side as there is only 2 inches from the copper elbow to the subfloor...

Is 2 inches enough?
Or would you just make the sub floor hole larger so the coupling just sits between the floors?
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Old 07-14-2015, 02:37 PM   #4
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I don't think 2 inches is. But you could cut the hot on a horizontal and use 2 shark bites, one a 90. I know your on a ticking clock....and I ain't a plumber.
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Old 07-16-2015, 06:03 AM   #5
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Guess its just me and you Charlie.
Hope you figured something out.
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:42 AM   #6
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Got a picture of the vanity?
Is there any drawers that are going to hit the supply's or drain, or is it all open?
Very best way is to cut that sheetrock and rerun the supply's behind the wall like the drain.
Second best, those stops need to be removed.
Need to also cut off that drain leaving about 1" sticking out of the wall.
Predrill the hole's with a hole saw in the cabinet, no harm making the holes for the supply's over sized, the escuntion is going to cover them up.
Once the vanitys in place and screwed to the wall install escuntions on the supply's and drain line.
Glue a drain adapter to the drain line (it will allow you to use a slip in trap set instead of using glue)
None of the fittings in the trap should be glued so you can get it apart to clean and run a snake.
Install new stops, do not cheap out and try and reuse the old ones, compression stops work fine.
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:46 AM   #7
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I'm not really understanding what the problem is, more specifically, why the water supply pipes need to be so tall, but I do commend you for your thoughtfulness of your parents.
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Old 07-16-2015, 08:50 AM   #8
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Bathroom Update


craig11152 -- I will post pictures when I am done I have a plan I should get it finished today or in the morning just waiting on some supplies from the hardware store

joecaption -- thanks for your idea

SeniorSitizen -- ? umm the water supply lines are long because they builder built the home that way



final results coming soon...
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Old 07-17-2015, 04:36 PM   #9
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I ended up cutting down the supply lines to 9 inches. Then I cutting back the drain line leaving 2 inches. I used the sharkbites to cap it off. I got a friend to help place the cabinet over the lines and it fit.

I forgot to subtract 3/8in off the water line hole because of the back wood strip on the cabinet but no one is going to ever know once the escutcheon plate gets over the holes.

I did run into a problem using the compression valves. I used the multi-turn first and they would not stop dripping, so I got the quarter turn valves.

For a first timer its not too bad
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Old 07-17-2015, 06:14 PM   #10
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Yep--that is just the way a vanity should be installed---very thoughtful gift--

Please keep us posted--Mike---
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Old 07-17-2015, 06:54 PM   #11
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QUOTE: I did run into a problem using the compression valves. I used the multi-turn first and they would not stop dripping, so I got the quarter turn valves.
************************************************** *********
I'm assuming the dripping was from the compression connection? If it was, changing to a 1/4 turn valve wasn't really a long term solution but just happened to stop the dripping for time being.
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Old 07-18-2015, 11:00 PM   #12
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Update


Thanks...I just recently did a little research I am going to add tape to the ferrule which should hold for years to come
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Old 07-18-2015, 11:45 PM   #13
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Woah there young fellow. Step off your horse and do a little more research. Tape was designed for pipe threads that are tapered 3/4" per foot and nothing on a compression fitting meets any of that criteria.

If you want to put something on a compression fitting put a little lubricating oil or plumber's grease on the threads and ferrule to aid in the swaging as you tighten the nut 1 ( one ) round after all slack is removed.

If the tubing is held firmly bottomed out in the valve when tightening, that 1 round will insure no leaks for ever and that's a long time. If you ever need to remove it and re-assemble the 1 ( one ) round has been taken care of the first time and the only time necessary, so on re-assembly just tighten firmly and you be done.
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Old 07-22-2015, 02:53 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeniorSitizen View Post
Woah there young fellow. Step off your horse and do a little more research. Tape was designed for pipe threads that are tapered 3/4" per foot and nothing on a compression fitting meets any of that criteria.

If you want to put something on a compression fitting put a little lubricating oil or plumber's grease on the threads and ferrule to aid in the swaging as you tighten the nut 1 ( one ) round after all slack is removed.

If the tubing is held firmly bottomed out in the valve when tightening, that 1 round will insure no leaks for ever and that's a long time. If you ever need to remove it and re-assemble the 1 ( one ) round has been taken care of the first time and the only time necessary, so on re-assembly just tighten firmly and you be done.
I agree. I can't count how many times I see tape used where tape shouldn't be. If there was a leak dripping from the connection, as SS said, it's from an issue with the connection. Depending on the type of copper used L and M being the most common in home construction with the thinner M being far more often used (due to it being thinner and less material, thus cheaper), when the connections were cut, it's possible there could have been an irregularity helping it to drip. Not saying this was the case but it's been the case with me, over-tightening my cutters before I made full revolutions.

Additionally, I cannot recommend using quarter turn valves enough over their multi-turn gate valve type cousins. I have had... EVERY multi-turn valve that I have come across fail me from age, and quarter turn ball valves have yet to fail me. Not to mention ease of turning the valves on and off. Those multi-turns get stuck in the on position due to how they're made and it's a poor system for use with residential when most people don't operate them on a common basis.
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