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Old 06-24-2018, 04:02 PM   #1
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Replacing wood paneling and studs with metal.


Hello, my walls are solid brick(one layer). A couple years ago I remodeled by newborns room and ended up ripping off the 1x6 that were attached to the brick walls and replacing that with foil insulation with furring. I didn't like it but it was easier than chasing the brick, etc.

Now, I'm thinking of pulling a lot more paneling down and making all my truss connections stronger. I would like to do this while keeping as much fire resistance/termite as possible (no wood). Hence, thinking of roxul with foil followed by metal studs anchored to the trusses, brick walls, and the concrete slab. Then, hang the drywall on the metal studs and only use wood blocking as needed like cabinets. However, I'm worried about the moisture bridging through from the metal.....and I'm not sure how strong this connection would be.
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:23 PM   #2
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Re: Replacing wood paneling and studs with metal.


Why does everyone hate paneling? It's maintenance free. You never have to paint it. Even if you wanted to remove it, I think that it's over kill to replace the studs w/ metal.
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:28 PM   #3
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Re: Replacing wood paneling and studs with metal.


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Originally Posted by bennieray View Post
Hello, my walls are solid brick(one layer). A couple years ago I remodeled by newborns room and ended up ripping off the 1x6 that were attached to the brick walls and replacing that with foil insulation with furring. I didn't like it but it was easier than chasing the brick, etc.

Now, I'm thinking of pulling a lot more paneling down and making all my truss connections stronger. I would like to do this while keeping as much fire resistance/termite as possible (no wood). Hence, thinking of roxul with foil followed by metal studs anchored to the trusses, brick walls, and the concrete slab. Then, hang the drywall on the metal studs and only use wood blocking as needed like cabinets. However, I'm worried about the moisture bridging through from the metal.....and I'm not sure how strong this connection would be.
I don't like metal studs but understand the termite thing.
We build the same wall in basements with concrete walls.
We work with 2x4 but you could change to steel .
2x4 wall one inch away from the masonry wall insulate that vapour barrier, drywall. With a good vapour barrier and insulation you get no condensation on the brick and you will get less wicking thru the brick
The top of the wall should be fire stopped so something tight and sealed against the brick to stop any air flow up.
Wood walls there may also be considered bearing but not guaranteed.
If you seal the vapour barrier properly you could use treated lumber and that is out side the envelope of the house.
The 1" space behind the wall gives you a moisture and thermal break from the brick.
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:33 PM   #4
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Hey Guap, I have 3/8 birch....it's very durable but I've had an issue with termites so I figured it was time for it to go. I read the Florida code and it looks like I can't legally put the birch back up unless it was thicker. This, of course, assuming I'm getting an owner/builder permit to do all the walls/electric (it's an old house). I could reuse the birch.....but I really like the slick drywall look. I'll look it up again and see if I can find it.
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Old 06-24-2018, 04:51 PM   #5
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Hey Neal, You were in my convo. when I did my other room, I appreciate it.

Anyhow, first off there are no load bearing wood walls in the house. Second, I'm not sure where to put the vapor barrier. If I want to do all metal, ....I was thinking about putting pt on the bottom plate. Appreciate the firestop....definitely need to do that.
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Old 06-24-2018, 06:53 PM   #6
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Re: Replacing wood paneling and studs with metal.


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Originally Posted by bennieray View Post
Hey Neal, You were in my convo. when I did my other room, I appreciate it.

Anyhow, first off there are no load bearing wood walls in the house. Second, I'm not sure where to put the vapor barrier. If I want to do all metal, ....I was thinking about putting pt on the bottom plate. Appreciate the firestop....definitely need to do that.
Vapour barrier would go last before drywall, hard to staple into steel though.
You don't want wood touching concrete even treated use a sill gasket. thin foam comes in a roll of 4" or 6".
the barrier would be glued to the floor or bottom plate and the top plate.
Some areas don't use barrier but if they call for paper faced move up to poly instead. Our houses are completely sealed after insulation including outlets and everything.

Last edited by Nealtw; 06-24-2018 at 06:55 PM.
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Old 07-02-2018, 11:29 PM   #7
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Re: Replacing wood paneling and studs with metal.


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Originally Posted by Guap0_ View Post
Why does everyone hate paneling? It's maintenance free. You never have to paint it. Even if you wanted to remove it, I think that it's over kill to replace the studs w/ metal.
Wife and I actually painted over the paneling in a room in our house and we like it. You an obviously still see the grooves in it, but that's it. Oil based primer and latex paint over it and no problems ever since. We just didn't care for how dark it made the room seem. Painted it a light grey and it's much brighter now.
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:31 AM   #8
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Re: Replacing wood paneling and studs with metal.


You stated that you read the Florida Code , in Florida I think you would place the vapor barrier to the out side behind the studs. But before you even place any vapor barrier you should check with the standard procedure in your location in the Southeast and coastal areas the vapor barrier goes outward if used. What you need to do is have a wall analyzed as to where the dew point will occur in the wall assembly based on materials used in the wall with average out side temps & inside temps & humidity. Check with a local Architect and ask who in your area has the software to complete it should not take longer than about 10 min.
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Old 07-03-2018, 05:03 PM   #9
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Re: Replacing wood paneling and studs with metal.


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Hey Guap, I have 3/8 birch....it's very durable but I've had an issue with termites so I figured it was time for it to go.
Fair enough.
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