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Old 07-02-2014, 01:43 PM   #1
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Patching holes in interior wood walls


My old house has interior walls made of 1/2" tongue and groove 1x4 wood, with visible grooves about every two inches, as shown in the photo. I'm moving some electrical outlets, so what's the best way to patch the old holes? A friend suggested pieces of drywall, but then it would be flat.

(Sorry the photo is rotated 90 degrees, I don't know why the forum did that.)
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:04 PM   #2
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Yes,it would be flat and look like hell.Why can't you patch the holes with the original material.It is available or you could have it milled.
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:17 PM   #3
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I haven't seen it in any of my trips to Home Depot, but I will try calling some lumber yards. Milling is not an option because of cost.
Supposing I find the right material, how should I attach it around the edges?
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:48 PM   #4
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You just attach it the way the original is.It is probably blind nailed thru the tongues.As far as the butt joints you will need to remove some of the old material and stagger the edges.I would scarf them.
You might be surprised at the price to have it milled.I am a contractor and have all of my trim milled for cheaper than HD and a lot better quality.
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Old 07-02-2014, 04:51 PM   #5
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The original is 8ft boards running floor to ceiling. I think they are just nailed to the top and bottom plate. The holes I'm patching are only the size of an outlet box, so are you saying I should remove the whole plank?
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:15 PM   #6
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No.Just enough to stagger the joints between studs if you want it to look correct.
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:41 PM   #7
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Hmm, going to hate me but that's ok.
You have an improperly installed window, sure looks like no insulation in the walls, and jack legged wiring.
All that 1 X needs to go, rewired to code, insulation, then new sheetrock.
Just patching in scabs to fill those holes is going to do nothing to fix the real issues.
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Old 07-02-2014, 06:48 PM   #8
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What's wrong with the window?

You're right - no insulation. It's an old house. But I live in a temperate climate, so that's fine.

Several of problems with wiring, which I am fixing, but how can you tell that from the photo?
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Old 07-02-2014, 08:29 PM   #9
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Been working on old, weekend warrior built houses for over 40 years.
Any time I see an outlet installed over a window with a cord dragged across the wall, red flag.
Could careless where you live, and no one will ever know because there's no location in your post of profile, but any place on the planet needs to be insulated in the attic, walls and under the floors.
If not your just wasting heat and A/C.
Window tape is used outside around the nailing fin, not inside like I see it there.
Looks like someone bought an off the shelf window instead of ordering it to fit the rough opening.
Should have gotten rid of the side lite window and ordered a new slider window to fit the R/O.
Now your stuck with odd ball sized windows that are going to be a night mare to trim out.
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:02 PM   #10
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Why we always need to attempt making a 2014 corvette from a 1940 chevy beats hell outta me.
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:05 PM   #11
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I appreciate the advice. This house was built carelessly and cheaply in every way. The landlord plans to demolish the whole thing within 10 years, so he sees any changes now as sort of throwing away money. When I moved in, the landlord agreed to make some improvements, but we're not bringing everything up to modern code.

The original window was an odd size, and it would be too expensive to order a custom fit, so I framed a smaller opening for an off-the-shelf window. Since the house was built without wrap (just exterior siding nailed to studs), I'm not sure the window seal tape is even useful. But I used it anyway, outside on the bottom and sides. Then nailed the window, then taped the top. The tape was 6" wide, so I just folded it inside, that's why you can see it there.
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Old 07-02-2014, 09:36 PM   #12
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Vinyl windows are made to size all the time for no up charge.
I've ordered 100's of windows for old houses and never are they all the same size.
If you went to a box store like Lowes or HD there going to try and get away with it.
Good question "Why we always need to attempt making a 2014 corvette from a 1940 chevy beats hell outta me."
Main reason is it's the right way to do it.
Why spend your time and money on something that's never going to work, save money, or look right? When the same amount of effort and money can do the opposite?
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Old 07-03-2014, 12:18 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ebalsley View Post
I appreciate the advice. This house was built carelessly and cheaply in every way. The landlord plans to demolish the whole thing within 10 years, so he sees any changes now as sort of throwing away money. When I moved in, the landlord agreed to make some improvements, but we're not bringing everything up to modern code.

The original window was an odd size, and it would be too expensive to order a custom fit, so I framed a smaller opening for an off-the-shelf window. Since the house was built without wrap (just exterior siding nailed to studs), I'm not sure the window seal tape is even useful. But I used it anyway, outside on the bottom and sides. Then nailed the window, then taped the top. The tape was 6" wide, so I just folded it inside, that's why you can see it there.
Apologies and explanations aren't necessary. The window wasn't the question. Hopefully enough people will stay on the subject and answer your question.
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Old 07-04-2014, 09:50 AM   #14
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I'm not sure people understand that the picture is sideways. The boards are vertical. The receptacle is to the side of the window. Just FYI.
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