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Old 12-05-2016, 11:33 PM   #16
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


----Welcome to the forums!---------------

The OSB is way stronger running across the joists- good you blocked it all at 16" o.c.; http://osbguide.tecotested.com/pdfs/en/el809.pdf

If that is the smooth side with the printing up- it should be down for the wax used in manufacturing to help slow water vapor from exterior air in crawlspace coming up- unless it was stamped- "this side down". All perimeter edges require blocking, per article, to meet minimum strength rating. If there was a ledger for tub edge before, add one. Did you use the tile/weight calculator at the tile site for your joist span/sub-floor stiffness thickness... against deflection.

I could be wrong, but it appears the p-trap is only at the overflow and not between the tub drain, overflow/waste line...it looks like the drain is stacked there. Be sure you have a plastic (6mil. min.) vb on the dirt below. Add supports hangers to the drain PVC lines and the galv./copper supply lines as the get heavier full of water. Have you thought about lowering the shower diverter within reach of sitting in tub when temp cool and need more hot... Did they use dielectric fittings at copper/galv. pipes... Don't forget to air seal the floor gaps around drain pipe deck notches to the crawl- cold air will allow through and cool the water faster. Inspect/pic. would help us) the rubber booty around the vent pipe on roof as the previous plumber forgot the nail protection plates at top plates. Drywall install; http://www.lafargenorthamerica.com/G...%20English.pdf

Don't forget to add the sink cabinet/pedestal blocking and any towel bar/grab bar flat backing between studs now. Light fixture (sconces), mirror, TP holder backing as well.

Tips at tub; https://www1.eere.energy.gov/buildin...tub_shower.pdf

Gary
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Old 12-06-2016, 08:02 AM   #17
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


Hi Gary thank you for all the input. I did make a couple mistakes one being that piece of subfloor facing up. It is advantech so I am hoping both sides had the water resistance. Once I saw it the floor had already been glued and screwed. The reason I installed that piece of subfloor in that direction (and it may still be wrong) was because at the time I was just replacing that section and to turn it so it would run across the joists would cause much more waste at least I thought so. That section was ~39" x 72" plus that section on the other side of the pipes.

I did use a calculator for the deflection for tile, and it was ok for ceramic. On the calculator I chose 16" span but that really only seems to happen in 2 parts of the bathroom the rest are 12" or less.

I had to double check my pictures (the tub is already reinstalled) but no the p trap is under the whole drain, the overflow connects to the main drain and the p-trap is under that connection. I do plan (and have already bought) the 6 mil underlayment to cover the whole crawlspace. Unfortunately it seems every project they did on this house they threw, and left, all the materials in the crawlspace so cleaning it out before putting down the underlayment is a project on its own. When I open the main part of the floor in the main bathroom that joist has a 16" span so getting in and out will be much easier than it was with the other floor parts open. The access to the crawlspace on the outside in under a porch so to get to it requires a belly crawl. Definitely not the way I want to be lugging out all that garbage.

I did put hangars on the supply lines and I intend to add them to the waste line now that I got it in place. I could not lower the diverter since I was re-using the tub surround which already had the holes cut.

I will have to double check for those dialectic fittings, but I do not believe copper touches any other metal, the new valves are copper and all the supply lines are copper, the drain connects only to pvc so that should not be an issue right? There was not a tub ledger installed, and I did not install one. The last post I made (i know a bit lengthy) I believe explained my realization afterwards.

I will try getting up on the roof to take a pic of the vent flange, I believe it did leak at one point but was corrected. I have gone into the attic to check for leaks while it was raingin and afterwards and couldn't spot anything. Thank you again for all the input!


I have gotten sheetrock up in what was the 1/2 bath and I discovered nothing is square! This made for a fun time with the drywall. I have dug more into that rot around the vent and believe I have gotten most of the loose wood off so I will probably use the plate strap I found. I did buy a bunch of the wire guards a couple weeks ago since I noticed with the electrical the holes were not spaced correctly.
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Old 12-06-2016, 10:01 PM   #18
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


Around here they are code required, but I need to research them more; https://www.google.com/search?q=diel...utf-8&oe=utf-8

The "span" refers to distance (2x8 at 10.3') span between bearing points on the joist, not the plywood span which is handled by the ink stamp rating. Based on the load and species, rating stamp, etc. it will deflect with the new tile and someone walking on it without cracking the grout lines due to flexing (sag) down.

Gary
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Old 12-18-2016, 08:02 PM   #19
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


Just a little update. Got the drywall up, I plan on getting the Ditra down either this week or next weekend followed by the tiling in just this section that way I can install a toilet before ripping out the other one.



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Old 05-09-2017, 08:07 PM   #20
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


Resurrection post, This project was put on hold for a couple months due to temporarily inheriting 4 extra kids. They are home again so i can continue. I did get the floor down in the section of the old 1/2 bath which is in the post above.




I am sure it is not perfect but I'm ok with that as most of it is probably cosmetic.
One major planning failure was the new vanity, drawers are on the right and it sits right against the wall, so I am going over a couple different ways to make the door trimless without looking bad.

I also found out the rotted wood in previous post, was still an active leak. It took the spring storms to see it though since it is caused by wind blown rain, normal rain does nothing. So that took a couple weeks of finding what was actually leaking and how to fix it. I am still not sure if it is fixed, it may have been some of the popped screws under the ridge vent or the rain blowing up into the seams. It was hard to tell but the seam in that area did have that water residue look. I thought it was blowing under the ridge cap and coming in that way but a dya after rain I took the ridge caps off and there was no moisture in the top area. it is supposed to rain this weekend so we will see.

Next plan is to tear up the rest of the old floor, put in the new plumbing layout for moving the toilet, sink and adding in the shower. Then I can put new subfloor in, tile it and the last project will be to tile the shower.
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Old 05-10-2017, 05:37 AM   #21
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


Looking good. Nice progress update.
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Old 09-28-2017, 09:30 PM   #22
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


Been several months since my last update life gets in the way so it has been slow going but got my county inspection so finally got to put up drywall and am working on getting the floor down now.

Below is the main bathroom the other one is done except some finishing work and the actual shower. The plumbing is all new since none of it was up to code so I ripped it out and put in all new pvc.




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