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Old 11-04-2016, 02:46 PM   #1
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One room subfloor replacement


I recently bought a house and after a couple months found the subfloor was rotting out in much of the bathroom. This turned into a whole bathroom repair/ remodel. It is a slow process since most of the work is done only on the weekends and we have to continue to live in the house as I do this. I try to learn as much as I can before beginning the next step which also slows things down. I am at the point where I am planning to remove the shower and the temporary sink in the main bathroom to replace the subfloor. It works out that it is just under 8' wide which works perfectly for laying the plywood.

My question is, since i am cutting out old plywood for the entire bathroom is it ok to just lay down the new plywood even though it wont be staggered or would it be better to cut the plywood at some points and create staggered seams?

It sounds counter intuitive to cut the plywood for the sake of making staggered seams but I'd rather ask then do it wrong.
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Old 11-04-2016, 03:48 PM   #2
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


You only stagger the seams so that you don't have 4 panels sharing one seam.

If you are talking about a couple full sheets, they can be run parallel as long as they have sufficient bracing on the joist.
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Old 11-08-2016, 04:06 PM   #3
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


Thank you WoW. I have progressed a bit in my project and ran into another snag. Two joists under the tub facets have rot. My initial plan was to sister them, this will work for one however the other one has already been sistered. I spoke to someone and was told I could still add a sister beam to it. The rot is about 8" long and maybe goes 2" deep.

The problem is that there is no room to work the sister in, I cant get an angle with a hammer and a drill won't fit either. There is about 5" on either side of the joist. Since the joist is already in between 2 joists that are 16" on center and is not carrying any load bearing walls I believe my only concern would be with keeping the subfloor from sagging in those points. Even that I would think would not be a big concern since on 16" joists there would normally be nothing there anyways. For precaution I was thinking of boxing around the rot the keep the subfloor level.

I have already cleaned the rot and treated it with wood hardener. Any opinions on this or what I could do? I am working with very limited tools and funds otherwise I think I would do something along the lines of jacking the exterior wall and replacing that whole joist.

I am going to try attaching a pic but this is only my third post. The pics are from before I treated it That 4x4 with 2x4s is the corner of a closet wall which is not load bearing.

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Old 11-08-2016, 04:40 PM   #4
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


OK well either I did something wrong or the pictures didn't work but I have uploaded them to my album.
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Old 11-09-2016, 07:51 AM   #5
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


1. The rot is same as notching the joist 2" deep and 8" wide.
2. The sister you're talking about, why is it there? Is it a sistered joist or was it a double beam? Joists may have been doubled because of the span and the tub was over the area (full tub is heavy).

If you just need a nailer, you just need 2x4 even with the joist. If a repair is needed, an angle drill is fairly cheap. Also you can predrill and use 3-4" screws going in angled. What kind of tub do you have? The tub's weight is also on the wall cleats.
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Old 11-09-2016, 08:09 AM   #6
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


I believe the double joist is there because of the edge of the tub, I am not sure of the exact tub material but I believe it to be plastic. It is very lightweight (I was able to lift and carry it around without a problem). The span is ~10ft so the only reason I could guess is the tub edge.

To do that repair with screws would 3 in line every 12" be sufficient? I was under the impression that I should be attaching a sister through both joists but if a 3-4" screw is sufficient I do have a box of deck screws that could do the job.

The predrilled screws is how I have been doing the boxing around the outer room edges where I am replacing the subfloor, Will angled screws be acceptable when sistering? When you say angle drill are you referring to an angled bit or the actual right angle drill?
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Old 11-09-2016, 11:59 AM   #7
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


Well I found a 90 degree attachment which should work with the screws. My initial plan was to use glue and carriage bolts, however from reading around the screws should be sufficient with the glue. Thanks for the input.

I should be able to finish the sistering and blocking tonight and get part of the subfloor down.
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Old 11-09-2016, 08:19 PM   #8
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


2 ruined attachments later I bought milwaukee angle drill. I see that it's called close quarter drill. 3/8 chuck and nothing heavy duty but it is used often. Attachment gears didn't take occasional load on it.
With that and predrilling (slightly larger) the holes and inserting the screws through one of the joists, straight in is always stronger.
Predrilled you can use nails too with the side of the hammer.
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Old 11-10-2016, 03:53 PM   #9
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


That attachment worked like a charm, I had to go in afterwards and tighten them one last turn by hand but made the task possible.



I am hoping to finish some blocking and lay the subfloor tonight and get my shower back in then it is on to the rest of the bathroom.

Once done I plan to use schluter flooring for under new tile, put up a new wall move the sink and toilet, and make my master 1/2 bath into a 3/4 bath. All this started because of the mold smell in the 1/2 bath. We had to get rid of the mold and rot so figured might as well do the whole job now.

I will keep updating this thread as my project progresses just in case anyone is curious.
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Old 11-10-2016, 06:31 PM   #10
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


Like the progress.
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Old 11-18-2016, 10:16 AM   #11
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


Got that section of sub floor in and finally got the tub back in yesterday. Went to go put the surround back in and realized I had already soldered in the new valves. So I get to cut them and I'll Just use some sharkbite adapters I have to put them back together once the surround is back up.


I have been thinking about the next issue I am going to have to face and it is the rot pictured around the plumbing vent. The 2x6s are not load bearing so that is not a concern but I am not going to be able to get new wood to close around that without making it 2 pieces. Is there anything coding wise that would prohibit me from using 2 pieces and using those metal attachers to connect them back together? When all is done that wall is going to continue to the right to close off the bathroom and where that window on the right is, will be a tiled shower.


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Old 11-18-2016, 04:40 PM   #12
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


That thing was allowed to leak for a good, long time.
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Old 11-19-2016, 05:41 AM   #13
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


There are large metal plates that will repair it. You don't need everything new. Some rots can be left in place. That should have been protected with metal anyway from mistaken screw. BTW, check all you plumbing and electric for such protection. Stay with 1 1/4" screws for backers or drywall.
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Old 12-01-2016, 08:18 PM   #14
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


Windows, I have no idea what was even leaking there, it goes straight up into the attic then outside. The plywood under the roof has very little water damage around the opening where it looked like it leaked. Unless the water just trickled in through a small crack did minimal damage to the roof and all sat on those 2x6s, which seems like it makes sense.

Thanks carpdad I will have to look into those plates, I will be adding a wall to the right of the vent so that portion I feel I might at well replace and just overhand the top plate to compensate then I can use that plate to reattach it one way or another.

Well I had the flu or something over thanksgiving so that extra long weekend was blown but I did get the tub back in which was a complete hassle. I discovered the previous owner basically threw the tub in and made it work. None of the plumbing actually lines up. I put in a new shower valve and soldered everything with copper (they had leaking sharkbite adapters everywhere). For the supply lines I had to loosen the solder to twist pipes at angles, the main drain is twisted (level but turned like if you were looking at a clock face) and I had to use a flex pipe for the overflow because there was no way that was going to seal on there the way they lined everything. This was probably the hardest part so far, putting it back together with things being so off center.

For fiberglass tubs is there supposed to be an additional 2x4 that runs horizontal between the tub and the wall it connects to on the long side? It seems there should be the way everything fit back together. I put it back, or tried to, the way it was originally both the tub and the separate surround were nailed directly to the joists. Either I was doing something wrong or it was done wrong initially, I could not get things level or to sit properly. Finally we put it together to the surround is about 1" out from the tub. If the tun was about 1"-1 1/2" from the wall it would have fit perfectly but at this point I had spent most of the day trying to rig the old plumbing to fit, if I pushed it out that extra inch I would have had to run new plumbing lines or at least patched a couple parts of them .

After that I finally got new subfloor down in the original 1/2 bath and new insulation in the outside wall. The gaps between sheets is a big bigger than I would like but between the rooms not being perfectly square and learning to make straight cuts with a circular saw over 4' I'm not too upset.

Next for that part is to put up sheet rock and put down tile so I can install the toilet and sink before taking out the other toilet and ripping up the rest of the floor I haven't gotten to yet.

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Old 12-05-2016, 01:22 PM   #15
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Re: One room subfloor replacement


For the top plate rot would a plate strap be the appropriate choice instead of replacing the wood? I would need something that exceeds 12" in order to bite into solid wood. For that section I would then have to forgo fastening the sheetrock every 8" and just work around it, correct?
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