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Old 11-08-2019, 12:51 PM   #1
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load bearing wall removal


I am in the process of moving a load-bearing wall!
The tricky thing is that it is 2' away from the upstairs wall. (the kitchen is popped in 2') stupid builder.
The span is 15' and my engineer has spec out a 6 3/4 x 9 glulam.
My question is how far can I safely cut the floor joist back to accommodate the new beam? ( it will be a flush beam on both sides) ceiling and floor.
Or should I just stab it on the outside with hangers?
The engineer also wants me to install 2 micro- lams near the wall. I was just going to cut the joist as close as possible and slip them in with hangers.
I'm also doing the wall next to it that is the dining room.
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Old 11-08-2019, 01:04 PM   #2
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Re: load bearing wall removal


It reads like the beam is sized to fit in place of the joists.
You are supporting the upper wall and removing the lower wall ?
Did the engineer tell you how long the beam should be.

Only put a beam in a hanger if the engineer gave you the number for the hanger he wants.
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Old 11-08-2019, 01:35 PM   #3
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Re: load bearing wall removal


The design is that the joist hangers will be placed on the side of the glulam to pick up the weight of the floor upstairs.
So I could just take off the ledger board and put up the beam or I could cut back the floor joist the additional 4 1/2"
Just nerves about doing this!
The wall will stay in place until all glulams are installed!
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Old 11-08-2019, 02:02 PM   #4
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Re: load bearing wall removal


Quote:
Originally Posted by j&sk View Post
The design is that the joist hangers will be placed on the side of the glulam to pick up the weight of the floor upstairs.
So I could just take off the ledger board and put up the beam or I could cut back the floor joist the additional 4 1/2"
Just nerves about doing this!
The wall will stay in place until all glulams are installed!
Yes but, but ,but.

It appears that your joists are not cantilevered but just shorts tied into the joist on top of the wall. If I am right the only support for the outside wall is the rim joist. Am I right and did the engineer see that detail.

If they were cantilevered your plan would be fine but if maybe no?
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Old 11-08-2019, 02:08 PM   #5
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Re: load bearing wall removal


??????????
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Old 11-09-2019, 02:38 AM   #6
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Re: load bearing wall removal


The floor joist are cantilevered 3 1/2 feet back into the kitchen attached to (2) 2x10.
So when or if I cut the floor joist back, to put in under the upstairs wall. It will just be the plywood and exterior wall holding itself up for that 6 3/4 space until the beam is installed. (which would be as soon as possible)
Does this make sense?
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Old 11-09-2019, 09:29 AM   #7
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Re: load bearing wall removal


The assumption is your engineer has covered all the bases. But in order to get the best advice, its very confusing to me from your words and pictures. So marked up pic to avoid word salad myself.

Where does the glulam go? Microlams? Where's post support? Where is the dining room you speak of changing structure?

What is exactly holding up the 2nd floor wall besides a rim joist with no column at the corner? The 3.5' joists of the "cantilever" sure look to not sit on top of the kitchen wall (cantilever means the main floor joists extend continuously over the outer wall for an overhang). That means they are just levitating up there by magic.

Why has a new slab been extended beyond the outermost wall (water ponding)? Is it thickened (assuming no frost) where I think the new exterior wall is going? Looks like CA or AZ, any seismic considerations here?
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Old 11-09-2019, 11:12 AM   #8
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Re: load bearing wall removal


Quote:
Originally Posted by j&sk View Post
The floor joist are cantilevered 3 1/2 feet back into the kitchen attached to (2) 2x10.
So when or if I cut the floor joist back, to put in under the upstairs wall. It will just be the plywood and exterior wall holding itself up for that 6 3/4 space until the beam is installed. (which would be as soon as possible)
Does this make sense?
I looked pretty close, and did not see plywood behind the stucco.

What will hold the beam up on the left hand side?
If you remove the rim and cut the joists for a beam there will be nothing under the wall itself, So all the weight is hanging on stucco and drywall.
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Old 11-09-2019, 11:29 AM   #9
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Re: load bearing wall removal


Quote:
Originally Posted by 3onthetree View Post
The assumption is your engineer has covered all the bases. But in order to get the best advice, its very confusing to me from your words and pictures. So marked up pic to avoid word salad myself.

Where does the glulam go? Microlams? Where's post support? Where is the dining room you speak of changing structure?

What is exactly holding up the 2nd floor wall besides a rim joist with no column at the corner? The 3.5' joists of the "cantilever" sure look to not sit on top of the kitchen wall (cantilever means the main floor joists extend continuously over the outer wall for an overhang). That means they are just levitating up there by magic.

Why has a new slab been extended beyond the outermost wall (water ponding)? Is it thickened (assuming no frost) where I think the new exterior wall is going? Looks like CA or AZ, any seismic considerations here?
I think we need more of this story.
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Old 11-09-2019, 08:28 PM   #10
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Re: load bearing wall removal


Would not a proper engineer's report specify not only what material to use but how to use it? I've seen them specify things like size of nails and nailing patterns.

I'm with Neal, that rim joist looks continuous and floor joist looks like stubs unless I missing something.
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Old Today, 07:49 PM   #11
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Re: load bearing wall removal


The new pictures are with the rest of the stucco removed.
The right side is the old dining room with the bathroom above!
They did not frame it the same way.
so that creates other issues. The outside wall of my bathroom has copper water pipe so I can only go in under the floor with the beam 1 1/2" with 2x10 hangers on everyone even the triple wich I will also support inside.
The new glulam is a 6 3/4" by 9 1/4 by 12' for the dining room expansion. Both sides of the new beam will be supported by a 4x6 or triple 2x4.
The middle of the two beams will be sitting on a simson strong cc74 with a 4x6 sitting under that.
Kitchen the engineer has stated that she wanted me to remove the floor joist between the glulam and the 2 micro glulam.
We have not seen eye to eye on this!
The plans were submitted this way.
I realize that the way it is drawn is to have the beam under the whole 2x4 wall.
Realize that the kitchen wall has less of a load than the dining room.
But now that I'm looking at this I am going to leave the floor joist and cut them in place.
First the new beam and then support the floor joist and cut them for the double micro glulams using hangers on both side of the micro and the major beam tieing everything together. Before I take out the wall
This Engineer was a bad expense she has not been very willing to come out and talk so I am trying to get wisdom before I call her out.
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Old Today, 08:03 PM   #12
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Re: load bearing wall removal


Quote:
Originally Posted by j&sk View Post
The new pictures are with the rest of the stucco removed.
The right side is the old dining room with the bathroom above!
They did not frame it the same way.
so that creates other issues. The outside wall of my bathroom has copper water pipe so I can only go in under the floor with the beam 1 1/2" with 2x10 hangers on everyone even the triple wich I will also support inside.
The new glulam is a 6 3/4" by 9 1/4 by 12' for the dining room expansion. Both sides of the new beam will be supported by a 4x6 or triple 2x4.
The middle of the two beams will be sitting on a simson strong cc74 with a 4x6 sitting under that.
Kitchen the engineer has stated that she wanted me to remove the floor joist between the glulam and the 2 micro glulam.
We have not seen eye to eye on this!
The plans were submitted this way.
I realize that the way it is drawn is to have the beam under the whole 2x4 wall.
Realize that the kitchen wall has less of a load than the dining room.
But now that I'm looking at this I am going to leave the floor joist and cut them in place.
First the new beam and then support the floor joist and cut them for the double micro glulams using hangers on both side of the micro and the major beam tieing everything together. Before I take out the wall
This Engineer was a bad expense she has not been very willing to come out and talk so I am trying to get wisdom before I call her out.
Are you just expanding out the 2 ft to match the upper wall or are you going further and have you added to the foundation.
Advise would be better if we get a good idea what exactly the end game is.
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