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Old 03-02-2016, 01:47 PM   #1
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How to frame a wall with french drains?


I am about to embark on a journey to finish my basement and I have a question. I have French drains around the perimeter of the basement with a little curb-like lip in front of the walls. The lip is 2.25 inches high and 6.5 inches deep. Do I frame the walls right on top of the lip or do I put the frames in front of it (wall framing will essentially be 6.5 inches away from the wall in this case and will shrink the size of my basement). Also, if I want to attach XPS insulation, do I attach it directly onto the concrete wall with adhesive? or should the wall be clear of anything so water can flow down to the French drains in the case of any water? (To be clear, in the 5 yrs I've been living here, there has been zero water in the basement but I just want to do things right in the case water does come in one day).

Thanks in advance for any advice/tips.
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Old 03-02-2016, 01:52 PM   #2
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Could you post a picture? That sounds unusual---you may need a few more posts before you can add a picture)
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Old 03-02-2016, 02:06 PM   #3
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Yeah i tried to post a pic but wouldn't allow me as I do not have enough posts.
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Old 03-02-2016, 02:24 PM   #4
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This is what it looks like now
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Old 03-02-2016, 02:25 PM   #5
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Is the right way to frame a wall...

Option 1


or Option 2
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Old 03-02-2016, 02:33 PM   #6
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That sure looks like a drain built into the block. Probably in order to allow the blocks to drain if water gets into them.

It's possible that you're not seeing water only because it's trapped behind that curb and air drying through those vents. Blocking them with insulation could cause problems.

I think this deserves some more investigating before you make a decision.
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Old 03-02-2016, 03:26 PM   #7
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I'm very interested in this as well. I have the same setup without the grid at the bottom. My wall is concrete. My French drains are a little closer to the wall. Like the OP, I'd like to understand if/how the French drains need to function going forward.
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Old 03-02-2016, 11:30 PM   #8
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Looks like the inside or top of an ICF maybe the concrete guys just used it for a spacer in their forms. I dont see any practical purpose for it.

maybe one of these.

Last edited by Mingledtrash; 03-02-2016 at 11:30 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 03-04-2016, 04:48 PM   #9
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Those are not french drains. I would frame your wall ontop of the ledge flush with the front so you drywall can hang down and cover the ledge.

so option 1, unless you need the space for insulation.
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Old 03-04-2016, 06:11 PM   #10
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Thanks mingled. That's what I was thinking also. Two more questions...I want to put a layer of r10 rigid insulation on top of the concrete wall. Do I bring the insulation all the way down to meet the concrete lip? Or do I put the insulation about that plastic grid thing that is up against the wall? 2nd question is how do you recommend I secure the pressure treated plated to the concrete lip? Nails/screws? Or some kind of adhesive?
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Old 03-06-2016, 04:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simonnyc View Post
Thanks mingled. That's what I was thinking also. Two more questions...I want to put a layer of r10 rigid insulation on top of the concrete wall. Do I bring the insulation all the way down to meet the concrete lip? Or do I put the insulation about that plastic grid thing that is up against the wall? 2nd question is how do you recommend I secure the pressure treated plated to the concrete lip? Nails/screws? Or some kind of adhesive?
I live in the desert and we are not required to insulate the basements so i am not the best one to answer this part of your question though if you ask over in the building section or insulation section i am sure someone can help.

as far as securing the pressure treated plate to the floor you have a few options and i would use construction adhesive under the plate with whatever option you use.

  1. use cut nails and a hammer.(this is what we used to use)
  2. drill in approved screws(this is an alternate option rarely used because of the additional time consumption)
  3. use powder actuated tool to drive in pins(this is what we use nowadays)


your best options are cut nails


or pins

this costs 25-30$ ^ use it

to shoot these^ with

these ^ but you will prob want the red tipped ones.


also lastly you can just pound in the ramset pins with a hammer but it takes skill so as not to bend them over and if your concrete is really old and hard you may not be able to.

And Always Always wear your safety glasses with pins or cut nails.

Last edited by Mingledtrash; 03-06-2016 at 04:19 PM. Reason: warnings
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