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|02-10-2009, 01:25 AM||#1|
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1Rewards Points: 10
Honey, I'm going to re-caulk the shower...
HoneyDo Project #57: Re-caulk the master bath shower:
44''x72'' tile shower.
Two full walls, one half wall w/glass upper, one full glass wall.
Estimated time: 4 hours (max), including removing the old caulk and cleanup.
1. Removing caulk showed that it covered up grout at the expansion joints.
2. Grout was cracked. oh-oh...
3. Caulk also covered up large grout seam (1/2''+).
4. Caulk also covered up fact that the wall tile was behind the floor tile rather than floor tile under wall tile.
5. Now need to remove grout then caulk; new estimated time: 2 days.
6. Oops! Green board behind tile, no concrete board. Grout removal tool punched right through. This is not a good day. I'm done for the weekend.
7. Green board saturated 18 inches up all three walls.
8. 8 spare tiles left by previous owner wasn't going to cover the fix.
9. Remove glass partition wall and rip out the rest. New estimated time: unknown. Depression sets in. Review revised cost with the wife. (I have no idea...)
10. Removing all the wall tile and green board showed that the liner wasn't installed correctly. Wall board was nailed as low as possible. Nails rusted through. Shower bed and curb must be removed.
11. Also found that the liner was cutoff 1 inch above the base of the curb allowing 3 vertical inches of only grout, tile and wall board between the glass above and the subfloor below. Shower bed and curb must really be removed!!!
12. Removing the walls also showed a severe mouse problem. Seems they were thirsty! All the insulation along one wall from the faucet down was ripped up and compacted to the bottom. Found the hole to the outside too. Nice. Don't let the wife see...
13. Removing the shower base showed more wall board nails starting 1 inch up from the floor. Almost completely rusted through. At one point I thought they'd used finishing nails as there weren't any heads (they'd rusted off).
14. Removing the shower base showed no presloped bed, allowing a puddle below the lip of the drain. The liner held up here though. But, the entire bed was saturated and smelled of bathroom cleaner. Weep holes were not protected either. They were plugged.
15. Removing the curb showed the 1 inch high liner was folded over in most spots. Like it matters at this point...
16. Removing the liner shower shows dry rot on the subfloor. Oh joy!
17. No tar paper or the equivalent.
18. Dry rot under the curb required lifting the adjoining tile floor. No spare tiles there either. Costs are going up. Trying to figure tile patterns to match remaining existing tile...
19. Lifting the subfloor showed that there was only one subfloor, no underlayment.
20. Lifting the subfloor ripped off the top portion of laminate of the TJI ilevel joists. That glue really works! Those that were under the dry rotted portion of OSB came up easy. (Please don't tell me I need to replace these!!!)
21. One of the joists, the one under the dry rot, is a full laminated beam that is 3/16'' shorter than the TJI joists (11 7/8''). Turns out this runs the full width of the house. What the heck!
22. Exposing the half wall of the shower allowed me to view under the adjoining soaking tub. The tub has lifted off the mortar bed by about 1/2''. (did they put water in the tub when setting it in the mortar bed?)
23. The trap of the tub is directly over the main breaker panel of the house. I don't know what the code is, but that can't be right. One leak and ZAP!!! I have 2 200 Amp breaker panels. That would be one heck of a melt down!
24. The shower water lines did not have a shut off valve. They will soon. The tub did though (nice touch).
And all I wanted to do was re-caulk the shower...
So, my first question: How do I re-level the joists? I can't sister the TJI joists as there is all sorts of piping, electrical duct work running in the area. The area below is the utility/furnace room (lucky me as it's the only unfinished room in the house). Do I rip some 2x and tack it to the top of the beams once I clean it up a bit? I could mount some stiffeners after the fact, for short distances anyway.
Second question: I lucked out a bit in that the dry rot didn't make it to the sill plate. It got close, but I think it's ok. I really don't want to try and replace the OSB under the stud wall. I ripped out the subfloor all the way to the wall. Any suggestions for supported the new subfloor edges? I have both a parallel and perpendicular wall w.r.t. the floor joists.
Third question: What do I do about the tub? (see #22 above) I've lived here 18 months have haven't used it yet, but I suppose my wife or I will eventually. I'm afraid to fill it with water at the moment! It's my last remaining piece with the old tile and I really don't want to pull that too. My wife will think I've had a mental breakdown and am tearing the house down piece by piece.
I'll post a few pictures tomorrow to show the the current state of affairs.
I like a good home project, but this one has me a bit frustrated!! I'd hire a pro, but cash flow is a bit limited at this moment. I'm fairly handy, just not as fast or as sure as the pros.
Advice is welcome!! Many more posts and treads to follow!!
|02-10-2009, 09:11 AM||#2|
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 6,520Rewards Points: 2,000
I don't want to weigh in on the joists without seeing the damaged area and what parts are out of whack. Pics will definately help.
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