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Old 01-27-2015, 04:24 PM   #1
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Hardibacker & wall insulation


1st time poster and I must say this site has been a wealth of knowledge.

To my question... I am redoing my bathroom where the shower walls are outside walls. I plan to use 1/2 inch Hardie backer and I purchased r13 plastic wrapped rolled insulation(from lowes) that I plan to staple to the studs(old house so studs are not exactly 16 inches apart, wider in some places). Do I need an additional poly vapor barrier? Or does the plastic on the insulation serve that purpose of the vapor barrier? Or should I just get the Kraft faced paper insulation and use the poly before installing hardibacker?


Sorry if this has been answered before, but have had no luck searching.

Thx in advance
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Old 01-27-2015, 04:28 PM   #2
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There is no need for an additional vapor barrier.
Still going to need to water proof the tile board before tiling.
Google "Red Guard".
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Old 01-27-2015, 04:41 PM   #3
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Joe said it---one vapor barrier is enough---

If you are going to waterproof the face of the board (I highly recommend doing that)
Then you do not want a vapor barrier on the insulation---so slash the bagged insulation before adding the backer board.
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Old 01-27-2015, 05:32 PM   #4
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Is this shower going to be tiled, fiberglass, plastic, etc..?
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Old 01-27-2015, 06:14 PM   #5
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Hi, thanks all. The shower will be tiled. So get the paper Kraft faced insulation then hardibacker then red guard?
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Old 01-27-2015, 06:24 PM   #6
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Use unfaced bats or slash the paper--it is a vapor barrier.
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Old 01-27-2015, 11:53 PM   #7
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Hi, again couple more questions..

1. Do still need to use tape for the hardibacker sinse I will use redgard? What kind of tape.
2. What thinset is recommended?
3. I plan to tile to the ceiling already gutted the shower wall where about 6 feet it was Cement Board, so I am left with about 2 feet of plaster to ceiling. Should I rip these 2 feet of plaster out and use hardibacker to ceiling or can I use hardibacker up to plaster and then regard to ceiling with tile on top?

Thx in advance,

Frank
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Old 01-28-2015, 05:44 AM   #8
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If the Hardibacker is exactly the same thickness as the old plaster--then leave the existing material--

If not---remove the old plaster---patch the ceiling corners and do the backer all the way up---

You want to tape with 'tilers mesh'--alkali resistant tape---There are small rolls in the tile section of the home depot---or larger rolls in the drywall isle.

I suggest you use a good modified thinset (powdered)--I almost always use white--
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:15 PM   #9
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Hi, thanks for the advice above. I ended up taking it all down. Will be using wool insulation, then hardibacker and will then roll redgard for barrier.

Qq. What if I want to build a niche and it's an outside wall. Do I just not insulate this part?

Thx,

Frank
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Old 02-09-2015, 08:12 PM   #10
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It will be a chilly niche---but--no insulation would be possible----

waterproof it well---
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Old 02-14-2015, 10:01 AM   #11
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hi, again. So I put the hardibacker up and built the niche. I have been reading that instead of thinset and mesh tape, I can use a water proof mesh and redgard on seems and corners. Would this work just as well as thinset and mesh before redgard?

Thx,

Frank
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Old 03-22-2015, 12:43 PM   #12
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basement bath


The US Department of Energy says reflective insulation should not be used in cold or very cold climates. Besides, it's designed for attic installation in reflecting heat outward where it's used as a radiant barrier. Foil used as a vapor barrier on a basement wall will likely trap moisture behind the wall and feed mold. (Mold can grow on a concrete wall, not just wood.)
I would simply fit in XPS as tightly as you can and seal with building tape or foam around the pipes and wiring.
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