Egress Window Header, Construction.. - Remodeling - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
Advertisement


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Remodeling

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes
Old 02-12-2015, 08:49 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Little Falls, MN
Posts: 65
Rewards Points: 91
Default

Egress window header, construction..


Hey all,

Have a new project on the horizon for our 1954 home. As the title implies I would like to install egress windows in half of our basement, one in a new bedroom, and another in a new living area.

My plan is to use two 32x42 casement vynl windows. These meet the size requirements and will put me well within the 44inch height requirement from the floor.

The house has block construction for a foundation with 2x8 joists/rim. The roof is a hip puts load onto all four walls. The wall I want to put these windows in has joists running into the rim. Floor span supported by the joist is 11 feet.

According to this chart:
http://www.iompc.org/wp-content/uplo...-Top-Plate.pdf

It looks like a double 2x4 would be marginal and a double 2x6 would be plenty. My question is regarding the rim/header mainly. If you put a double header under a single rim, what good is the header? Do you need it in this case? There is so much back and forth with header /no header it makes my head spin. I have a 32 inch wide window on the other side of the house under identical load that uses the 2x8 rim as the header, 50+ years later that opening shows no signs of bow or deflection that I can detect.

Secondly, any other tips for installation? Some research on this site revealed it may be a good idea to use ice and water as a barrier between the concrete and the treated lumber? Then sticky tape over the lumber on the bottom of the opening and more sticky around the perimeter of the window after install?

I feel confident in my ability to complete the project, I want to do it right, and want to know what I want to do when I go to pull a permit.

Thanks for you time guys!
quackaddict is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-15-2015, 03:15 PM   #2
RMK
Newbie
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Northern Arizona
Posts: 8
Rewards Points: 16
Default


I would say go with the 2x6 double headers. Codes have changed since your house was built. Even though the other side works fine the building dept. will want the new work to conform to new requirements. An example of this is a covered deck as part of a new house I built required a 4x8 glue lam beam instead of a 4x8 solid lumber beam. Our house has a similar cover with a 2x6 solid lumber beam that works just fine.
As for the header/rim. If I understand you the floor joist run perpendicular to the wall you want to put the window into. The rim should sit on top of a sill plate that also has the floor joist sitting on. The double header will support the sill plate and the floor joist. If that is incorrect let me know.
You could use PL Premium glue to seal in between the wood and the block. I like to install windows with the self sealing fortifiber adhesive flashing and then trim out the exterior. You can find that at Home Depot. I think that is the sticky tape you are referring too.
RMK is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-15-2015, 05:49 PM   #3
journeyman carpenter
 
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 3,480
Rewards Points: 1,578
Default


where this will be for a basement window go with a double if not triple 2x6 header if you have the depth for it but make sure the hip rafters dont create a point load down to the window opening.

as for using ice and water shield to seal hte window opening DO NOT USE ICE AND WATER SHIELD it is a asphalt based product that will react with vinyl and even fibreglass window units causing the vinyl to break down shortening the life of the unit. a rubber based bitoumanous product such as blue skin or vycor
woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to woodworkbykirk For This Useful Post:
Gary in WA (02-17-2015)
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 02-17-2015, 12:14 AM   #4
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,730
Rewards Points: 526
Default


Using the rim joist alone (depends on span minus any point loads) or adding to it there is very space-saving and code-acceptable. I have added joists to perpendicular rim joists for built-up headers for years, and passed inspection.

Gary
__________________
If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent.
17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2015, 07:38 AM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 3,487
Rewards Points: 6,897
Default


That link references a Kentucky amended version of the 2006 IRC and is statewide minimum standards which are sometimes superseded by local building codes here in Kentucky. You need to know your local codes.

I have found the permit office to me a very friendly place to DIY homeowners. I would make my preliminary permit request drawings and go talk to them. They will tell you what you need to modify.

For what it is worth, If you have an 8" rim joist I would use a doubled 2x8 header over the windows. As I like to overbuild. I would add a plywood core. The cost difference between a 2x6 and 2x8 is so small that it is not even worth the time to think about it.
__________________
Colbyt
Retired drapery and home furnishings installer.
Colbyt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2015, 07:04 PM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Little Falls, MN
Posts: 65
Rewards Points: 91
Default


Thank you all for the clarification and information, it is very good to know that the ice and water is a no go, would hate to go through all the effort and mess it up!

Regarding the headers, I have exactly 7 feet to work with in the basement, if you throw a 2x8 or 2x10 under the current rim joist you end up with a window a long ways in the ground. A reinforced rim would be ideal, but I am not comfortable with the removal and replacement of block that would require, the only thing I would comfertable with would be using wood jacks to support the ends of a reinforcement like that, so still cutting to width, but adding a second 2x8 rim and using wood 2x material to support the ends of it. I have not seen that type of install and am not sure it would be appropriate.

My other thought as I sit here and re read posts, why are headers not more than 2 boards thick? Why can a person use 2 2x8 but not 3,4, or 5 2x6 to equal the strength of the 2 2x8? Is it just not as strong, or is there some other consideration? It would seem most egress installs have plenty of space for 3+ headers, but maybe not as much for height dimension.

Thanks for all of your help guys!
quackaddict is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2015, 09:41 PM   #7
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,730
Rewards Points: 526
Default


As said correctly, check locally. I have added a 4 ply built-up header in the rim with the joists perpendicular to the wall for new headers before. I sometimes add enough pieces just to clear the inside concrete wall thickness for a header- otherwise there is no way to install it with concrete wall top corner in the way... Gary PS. Header nailing; #8, 9; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...?bu2=undefined

Adding ply strength; http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-...-up-beams.aspx
__________________
If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent.
17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-17-2015, 10:16 PM   #8
Member
 
concretemasonry's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Minneapolis/St. Paul, Minnesota - Latitude 45.057 Longitude -93.074
Posts: 4,113
Rewards Points: 2,716
Default


Checking the LOCAL requirements is critical since in most areas a local jurisdiction can have local requirement as long as the are do not reduce the standard, but he requirements can be more restrictive.

As an example, I have seen some local requirements for the OPEN CLEAR height to be a maximum of 42" for an egress window instead of the typical 44" that may be just for the sill itself and not the clear opening itself.

I don't know if that would would do for your project, but talking to the code official would be the prudent thing to do to avoid any future problems.

Dick
concretemasonry is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to concretemasonry For This Useful Post:
Gary in WA (02-17-2015)
Old 02-18-2015, 08:13 AM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Central Kentucky
Posts: 3,487
Rewards Points: 6,897
Default


I fear we have to point out the definition of " OPEN CLEAR height" so that a future reader does not get into trouble. As our local building department does and I assume all do,

It is not the rough opening height, It is the clear open space between the top and bottom of the window frame when the sashes are removed.

My local inspector would not accept the "egress window" sticker on the window. She measured it for herself. In all the inspections I had for this project that is the only time she got her tape measure out.
__________________
Colbyt
Retired drapery and home furnishings installer.
Colbyt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-01-2015, 07:39 AM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 4,999
Rewards Points: 2,482
Default


Adding on to headers is fine, but triple and onward will require bolting or lag screws, and all pieces must be supported at the ends.
carpdad is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Andersen Bow Window Question? (2x4 Construction) capecodder Windows and Doors 4 09-21-2014 11:40 AM
New Construction Window Bow/warp. Help typer0186 Windows and Doors 5 06-14-2012 10:59 PM
Raising a window header - need some advice ncrango Remodeling 14 02-04-2012 04:15 AM
Reusing a new construction window qoncept Building & Construction 3 09-17-2009 03:10 PM
DIY Egress window in basement? ClnlBrahm Building & Construction 5 09-03-2008 11:15 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts