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Old 03-18-2015, 02:57 AM   #1
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Casing trim installation technique


I am replacing all of the trim in our house with wider molding than was there previously. The installation is going very slowly and someone has suggested to me that my technique is to blame and that certain tricks exist which -- apparently -- I have no knowledge of. The problem is that the walls had been wallpapered and the wallpaper curls up along the edge of the previous trim. Under these curled up edges there is a buildup of wallpaper paste such that the wallpaper edge forms a hard ridge which in some places exceeds 1/4" high and which my wider casing trim must now span while still lying flat. Also, the door and window jambs are as much as 1/2" out of plane with respect to the surrounding drywall, which itself is quite wavy. The previous trim was thin and relatively flexible and seemed to twist and conform and spanned the gaps without much difficulty. But I am replacing it with 3/4" and 1" thick flat mdf that has no such flexibility. I tried scraping away the wallpaper edge ridges but decided this route was too messy and too time consuming. So, instead, I have been using a table saw to rip grooves and flats on the backsides of my new casing as necessary to get it to lie flat. This has also been time consuming but the results have been good so I have persisted with it, but now it has been suggested that there is a better method. I was not told what that better method was, though. Is there a better way? What might it be? Thanks!
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Old 03-18-2015, 08:43 AM   #2
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Take you hammer and beat hell out of the raised part, than sweep away the uyack that falls. Same for doors/windows....smack down the wallboard starting hard closest to window edge and then easing as you reach towards the edge of the molding. Ron
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Old 03-18-2015, 08:48 AM   #3
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That's the down and dirty method but will work.If I was going that way I would score the wall with a utility knife first to make sure it does not break where you would not want it to.
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:10 AM   #4
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This seems like it should work. I will give it a try. Good call on scoring the drywall first.
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Old 03-19-2015, 05:30 PM   #5
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beating the drywall does work however if your dealing with plaster dont even consider it as you`ll have a lot a ton of patching to do afterwords

ploughing out the back wors well,, also ive pre assembled casing first then nailed it to the gym .. a little more time consuming but it keeps the miters tight
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Old 03-20-2015, 07:56 AM   #6
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Scoring the drywall and then hammering it down seemed, at first, to be an effective solution. That is, until one of my hammer blows landed on a visible part of the drywall and suddenly went from being an efficient little marvel to a major pain in the butt as I had to stop to patch a hole in the drywall. Maybe I just have poor aim :-\

So contouring the backside of the molding once again seems like the best way to go. But why is it that none of the instructions online for installing molding cover this? Surely I'm not the only one whose house has wonky walls.
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Old 03-20-2015, 08:08 AM   #7
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Can you not just score the drywall and peel it off?
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Old 03-20-2015, 08:59 AM   #8
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The reason is, your wall paper was installed wrong, it should never have been turned up on the edges, the hanger took the easy way out and made it harder on you.

I am with woodworkingbykirk, if that is plaster instead of sheet rock, you best not be beating on it with a hammer, you can mess up way more than you want to fix. Most sheet rock isn't real wavy, as you described, but plaster usually is or can be.

Using a hammer is the way I also use to take care of imperfections like that. Scoring the sheet rock at least 1/4 - 3/8 inch behind where the trim will cover is a good idea and can save some extra work sometimes.

If you wish, you can use a wide taping knife (putty knife) and hammer to remove the excess stuff also.
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