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seephor 03-04-2015 02:49 AM

Widening Door Jamb
 
HD has an awesome deal on some really nice pre-hung interior hollow doors for $109 a piece. My home was built in the early 60's so the wall material is a drywall/plaster hybrid which measures roughly 7/8" thick. The jambs on these doors are roughly 4-1/2", designed for 1/2" sheetrock walls... If I were to special order them with the correct jamb size, I'm looking at roughly $100 extra per door. My other option is to extend the jambs 3/4". If I were to do this, what would be the best way to attach these extensions and would they eventually crack at the butt joints? Is it worth the effort or would it be better to dump the jambs complete and build them from scratch and just use the door? Any suggestions

oh'mike 03-04-2015 06:25 AM

Put the jamb extenders on the latch side --so your hinges woll be set as designed,

set the jamb extenders in a bit--to create a reveal--this will disguise any out of perfect joints and allow the lock catch to clear the extender.

joecaption 03-04-2015 10:10 AM

Jamb extentions are done all the time with no issues.
A whole lot easier to install if you use a pneumatic finish nail gun.
I install the head piece first, then the two sides, that way the sides hold up the head piece.

funflyer 03-04-2015 11:13 AM

Use wood glue and the joint will never separate. A brad nailer makes the job much easier.

concrete_joe 03-04-2015 02:43 PM

are you taking about jamb extensions that are tongue and grooved, or just some pine flat stock to build it up? i suspect that latter, so just get some 3/4? flat stock at least as long as a door side, rip strips to about 7/8" (unless the drywall is too tight), and then glue and brad nail it, hold back 1/16"-1/8" from inside jamb edge (reveal as was mentioned), lightly sand the edge of the piece, prime, paint, done.

if the door jamb is already primed then i would hand sand the primer off before gluing, makes a much better joint, etc.

seephor 03-04-2015 06:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by concrete_joe (Post 1798593)
are you taking about jamb extensions that are tongue and grooved, or just some pine flat stock to build it up? i suspect that latter, so just get some 3/4? flat stock at least as long as a door side, rip strips to about 7/8" (unless the drywall is too tight), and then glue and brad nail it, hold back 1/16"-1/8" from inside jamb edge (reveal as was mentioned), lightly sand the edge of the piece, prime, paint, done.

if the door jamb is already primed then i would hand sand the primer off before gluing, makes a much better joint, etc.

Yes, just flat piece of stock to build it up. The jambs are primed so I will have to sand it off. There's also a 1/8" radius on the existing jamb. I can radius the extensions as well but once I glue and nail it, how should I fill the joint? Regular joint compound? wood filler? ALEX caulking?

oh'mike 03-04-2015 07:27 PM

Step the jamb extender back so the radiused edge of the original still shows.

Davejss 03-04-2015 07:32 PM

I always rip my jamb extesions a good 1/8" proud, and then fine tune them with my block plane after they're installed. Just make sure your nails are countersunk deep enough.

concrete_joe 03-04-2015 10:28 PM

the joint, where glue meets old and new, will be hidden as you hold the new piece back from the original radius, and then when you prime and paint it will basically disappears, etc.

funflyer 03-06-2015 09:29 PM

The last door I installed, I pulled the staples out and disassembled the jambs then ripped them a quarter inch on the table saw to remove the radius and primer. It was much easier to add the extension and reassemble the frame so it looked perfect.

philmy 03-06-2015 09:45 PM

Just go to a door shop and see what they charge for a prehung door with the right size jambs. It probably cheaper than big box. Adding jambs extensions to one that was miss ordered is one thing, doing it to a hole house just looks like someone got a deal and made it work. Just my opinion.
The door shops usually have nicer stop and include casing and you can get 1/4 radius hinges. They look nicer. All for around $200~

tcleve4911 03-07-2015 01:18 PM

Being in the remodeling business, we apply extension jambs all the time.
Windows, doors, archways you name it.

When I order new windows they ask if I want the extension jamb kit for $$$
I never buy the factory jambs. It's not cost effective and they very rarely fit perfectly.
I just buy select or knot free lumber to rip my own extensions. It gives me more control of the finished product.

We generally apply the extension to the non hinged side like others here have so expertly expressed. That way the hinge operation is not affected.

If it's a good deal and a door you like, don't be afraid of performing a common task that's done in carpentry/ remodeling every day.

After all, you are remodeling and I'll bet you'll find this very easy once you get set up.

Good Luck

concrete_joe 03-07-2015 09:02 PM

arent "extension jamb kits" the jamb being grooved and extension being tongued ??

the OP has std jamb currently (the door was good price, had to buy), so must cut rips, glue, and tack.

seephor 04-19-2015 04:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funflyer (Post 1807977)
The last door I installed, I pulled the staples out and disassembled the jambs then ripped them a quarter inch on the table saw to remove the radius and primer. It was much easier to add the extension and reassemble the frame so it looked perfect.

Thanks for your advice. I did exactly this... pull the jambs apart, ripped about 1/8 to remove radius and primer, ripped the extend pieces, used wood glue and clamps to make them perfectly flush and nail gunned them on. Some areas had about a 1/64 offset which some sanding took care of. primed it and the joint is completely invisible :thumbsup:


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