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#1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
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![]() Help with stair remodel
Hey all,
New to the forum and have encountered a bit of a problem. I had carpeted stair and tore the carpet out. Want to put stained treads and painted risers. I cannot find a retrofit kit that is deep enough to work with my treads. The run on my treads are 11". How do I make this work? Is my only option to cap them with solid 1" thick, 13" inch deep treads (special order and A LOT more money)? Thanks in advance |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2018
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![]() Re: Help with stair remodel
I don't see an easy way out of this one. FWIW, you do not need a nosing if your rough tread depth is 11", but I suspect that would not look so good with a pre made tread. So you are left with either adding a piece to your treads, which would not be easy and would probably look like heck, making your own treads, also not easy and would require a bunch of tools which you probably don't have, or sucking it up and ordering the wider treads. An 11" run is standard in commercial, so products should be out there.
Good luck. |
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Joseph K. (10-07-2018)
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#3 |
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![]() Re: Help with stair remodel
If the tread run is 11" , then HD has 11.5 in. wide x 36" long x 1" thick clear oak treads. Not sure I understand the issue here.
joecaption and Nealtw like this.
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…………………... Last edited by Gregsoldtruck79; 10-07-2018 at 01:57 PM. |
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#4 |
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![]() Re: Help with stair remodel
Engineered flooring is one option. They also come with nosing. There are also thinner solid wood flooring that you could make into treads. Existing nosing will have to be cut off. Too thick cover, you change the riser heights too much and could become a problem. What about the top landing? Wood or carpet? Is this stairs with walls on both sides or one/both sides open? Did the builder account for possible change to wood? Photo and riser measurements would help.
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Joseph K. (10-07-2018)
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#5 |
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![]() Re: Help with stair remodel
The treads are bull nosed, so they are supposed to have a 1" overhang. When I place the 3/4 riser above the tread, it gets me where I need to be, but when the riser below is placed, the curvature of the bullnose leaves a large gap across the top of the riser and couldnt be trimmed out to make look like anything. Unfortunately, it is looking like 13" treads are going to be my only option. The stair case is open on the right side, which doesn't help things. Thanks for your reply!
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#6 |
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![]() Re: Help with stair remodel
rises are 7 1/4". The top landing is going to be carpet. They were built for carpet obviously, just going to take a but of tweaking the top and bottom rises without crating too much variance.
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#7 | |
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![]() Re: Help with stair remodelQuote:
Either I cannot do math or I am misreading the red text wrong. ![]() Not directed at the OP... But just for those reading that will ever cut a set of stairs, too much run on a tread is almost as bad as not enough. A 13 inch deep finished tread makes one want to step LONG going down them, or they want to take another baby step just to get to the front edge of the step. Neither scenario is what is desired for a normal stair stepping "gait" that one should even have to think about when using stairs. Ten and eleven inch run treads max, are my choice. JMO
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#8 |
retired framer
Join Date: Jun 2017
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![]() Re: Help with stair remodel
Your treads have a bull nose for the carpet? That gets removed for hard wood treads.
If it is open one side to the room below you are better to use a 4" wide nose and fill the field with hard wood planks. |
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#9 |
retired framer
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![]() Re: Help with stair remodel |
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#10 |
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![]() Re: Help with stair remodel
Not understanding you. Do you already have treads with a round nose? If you want to cover this, you have to cut that nose off. For risers, you have more options since you're painting. You can smooth out the existing riser with a wood filler and paint. There will not be any difference. You can also use 1/8" hardboard or such and paint. Risers don't have to be 3/4" ply, if that is your plan.
I covered my rough frame stairs with the same engineered flooring for the rooms. It came with matching nosing. Glue and used finish nails for the nosing and the rest was floating (glued down in this case) and edges held down with quarter round trim. I used tread gauge to cut the material since it was enclosed. Nosing was solid wood and I cut it butt snug between the stringer trims. I wasn't worried about the expansion because it was only about 36-40" wide. For the open side, you can miter the nosing to finish. Some engineered flooring is only 3/8" thick. |
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