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Old 11-23-2014, 10:55 PM   #1
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Help determine header size


I'm in the middle of a master bath remodel and decided to install a pocket door to help create the illusion of a larger space since the bathroom is small.

The details:
-Pocket door size-2'4"
-Rough opening width will be-57"
-Single story with crawl space
-Floor joists and rafters are perpendicular to the wall
-The wall is not directly over a beam or any footings, the closest beam and footing is a couple feet away, so I'm thinking the wall is not load bearing
-The rafters are engineered trussed rafters
-The current door is a 2'2" swing door
-The current header is a double 2x4 with sandwiched ply in-between

I was thinking of installing a double 2x6 header with sandwiched ply but then I wonder if this is over kill, at the same time I'm not 100% certain if its load bearing or not.

I did cut the bottom plate loose of the wall that will be receiving the pocket door and it moves between the subfloor and the studs with relative ease, so this also is leading me to believe this wall is not load bearing and then thinking a doubled 2x4 header would be sufficient.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.

I can snap some picks if needed.
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Old 11-24-2014, 12:28 AM   #2
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If you can swing it I would go with the 2x6.
Here's a video to give you some ideas, especially on hardware. Just look at the existing one and how he's redoing it.

http://www.ronhazelton.com/projects/..._a_pocket_door
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Old 11-24-2014, 02:14 AM   #3
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I have room for the 2x6 header, just barely.

I have a Johnson hardware pocket door kit, but my rollers didn't come with ball bearings, but they are the 3 wheel rollers, like the ones in the video though
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Old 12-20-2014, 11:25 PM   #4
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If you have space for the 2x6 header, do it. Especially since you are unsure of exactly what weight it has above it. With headers, it's better safe than sorry and they are cheap to build.
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Old 12-21-2014, 02:36 PM   #5
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if the wall has a double top plate it can act as a bearing wall simply by transferring some of the load down to the floor its sitting but that can create a sag on the floor if its taking too much weight withoug a direct point load under it.

the other thing pertains to where the wall is in relation to the overall wall layout for that floor of the house. can you post a quick sketch of the layout of your house
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