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Old 09-01-2010, 08:06 AM   #1
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crown and difficult angles


I am working on a wall where the fireplace just out 5 inches on a 20 degree sloped ceiling. I have been successful in adding a transition piece to cause the piece of molding to slop up to the 90 that will be the face of the fireplace. This is where the problem sets in .. this is a strange intersection. The moldings will not match up and I am standing in ankle deep sawdust with molding remnants stacking up around my feet,.,, HELP

[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Spectrum%20Sound/Desktop/cath1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]file:///C:/Users/Spectrum%20Sound/Desktop/cath1.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:33 AM   #2
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This one will probably require a photo. Maybe other people are having more luck, but I cannot get your link to work.
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Old 09-01-2010, 02:06 PM   #3
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sorry about t he attempt of the attachment.... I am talking about something like this. Notice the transition piece to the slop then to the 90 to the front portion.... the front molding is the one that I don't get due to the long angle on the sloped piece not lining up with the front... so I need to use different size crowns or completely change the sloped piece from a transiton so that I can roll the sloped piece upwards towards the ceiling ....
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Old 09-01-2010, 07:25 PM   #4
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How bout making up a nice looking inside corner block to have both pieces die into? Sort of like a square plinth block.
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Old 09-01-2010, 09:44 PM   #5
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I was looking into that today. I had gone to the store and saw some of the pre-fabed corners would really rather do without it.. but everyone of my friends that do this kinda thing have said it is not going to be easy and may not look right.,.. but then I see pictures of work that has been done and I sigh..... I am also thinking about stacking ma couple different base cap moldings giving the appearance of crown but actually would be cut flat so it might marry better
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:41 PM   #6
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OK, I am a little thick headed here, are you talking about the transition piece to the left of the picture or where the molding turns the corner at the far right of the picture. If you are talking about where the mold makes the 90 turn at the top you will notice a piece has been added to the back bottom of the mold to take up the gap the mold would have left if a piece of wood hadn't been added. If that is where you are talking about you would just cut the end that will go up the other wall at the far right of the picture on a 45 degree or cut and cope on a 45 degree and run the molding on up. The picture shows the molding cut on a 45 degree just as if it were a regular flat ceiling. I hope I am not confusing you as I am not good at explaining things right. What you are trying to do in the picture is doable.
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Old 09-01-2010, 10:56 PM   #7
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I have the transition part figured out the piece added to make the slop up to the 90 that will go across the front.. its the front part that I am dealing with... if you labeled the mold from left to right 1,2,3 and so on we would be talking about joint of 3 and 4...... I have cut this and there is no way it will line up the profile on 3 will be longer than 4...
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Old 09-01-2010, 11:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by legacy118 View Post
I have the transition part figured out the piece added to make the slop up to the 90 that will go across the front.. its the front part that I am dealing with... if you labeled the mold from left to right 1,2,3 and so on we would be talking about joint of 3 and 4...... I have cut this and there is no way it will line up the profile on 3 will be longer than 4...
OK I understand now. Take two scrap pieces of ceiling mold and cut them to fit a regular outside corner for a flat ceiling and tack them together before you put it up on your ceiling. You will see when you put the molding up on your ceiling, that is running up on an angle (or a vaulted ceiling), there is a gap at the bottom back of the piece that runs horizontally #4. The first picture you posted above shows the horizontal run #4 with a thick edge at the bottom, compare it to the thickness of the piece #1 on the bottom far left.

If you don't want to add a strip of wood cut on an angle to the bottom back of piece #4 you may be able to take a hand plane and take the back out of that piece. Is this making any sense, I wish I could explain better.
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Old 09-02-2010, 07:03 AM   #9
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dude, what a simple solution!!!!! thanks for taking the time to help I think that is going to work very well. I can so make that happen...
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:36 AM   #10
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You are welcome buddy.
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Old 09-02-2010, 08:46 AM   #11
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Very well explained, Jiju.
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Old 09-02-2010, 06:13 PM   #12
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Now I see said the blind man, as he picked up his hammer and saw.....
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