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Old 12-23-2019, 02:34 AM   #1
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Best way to terminate base shoe at doorway trim


I'm trying to decide what is the best or most preferred method for terminating base trim When You Reach the casing for a door. My first thought was to a 45-degree miter at the end and then terminate it. However originally in my house the base shoe seem to be carved when it reached any of the door trim. I've seen this and most of the older homes Cirque of the 1920s. Is this still a preferred method? I've attached a photo of what it originally looked like. If this is the way to do it, what is the best way to achieve this?
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Best way to terminate base shoe at doorway trim-photostudio_1577083264589_1577086465185.jpg  
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Old 12-23-2019, 02:56 AM   #2
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Re: Best way to terminate base shoe at doorway trim


I think what you have was pretty normal.

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Old 12-23-2019, 03:02 AM   #3
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Re: Best way to terminate base shoe at doorway trim


Found this.

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Old 12-23-2019, 03:34 AM   #4
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Found this.

Interesting. I wish they didnt end the video right on the part I was interested in lol. 22.5 degrees it is. Would you do it by hand?
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Old 12-23-2019, 06:06 AM   #5
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Re: Best way to terminate base shoe at doorway trim


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Interesting. I wish they didnt end the video right on the part I was interested in lol. 22.5 degrees it is. Would you do it by hand?
Depending on how I felt on any given day
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Old 12-23-2019, 11:17 AM   #6
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Re: Best way to terminate base shoe at doorway trim


Just like the photos. No carving or hand sawing needed. Cut perpendicular to length of run, then just mark your miter to give an 1/8" or so to butt up to the adjacent casing that at least equals the casing protrusion. Basically making it look like a chamfer. I still use 45d rather than 22.5d on shoe mould because the 22.5d doesn't really show on such a small cut.
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Old 12-23-2019, 11:20 AM   #7
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Just like the photos. No carving or hand sawing needed. Cut perpendicular to length of run, then just mark your miter to give an 1/8" or so to butt up to the adjacent casing that at least equals the casing protrusion. Basically making it look like a chamfer.
And then cut on a miter saw? I see there's a tool out there designed specifically for cutting quarter round. Looks like a pair of scissors of sorts. I'm always worried about snapping the quarter round with too big of a blade
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Old 12-23-2019, 11:46 AM   #8
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Re: Best way to terminate base shoe at doorway trim


I just use the miter saw. I prefer base shoe moulding over quarter round for baseboard.
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Old 12-23-2019, 04:33 PM   #9
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Re: Best way to terminate base shoe at doorway trim


I've done as shown. I decided on 30* - no real reason, I just liked the look better than 45*.
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Old 12-23-2019, 04:40 PM   #10
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I've done as shown. I decided on 30* - no real reason, I just liked the look better than 45*.
Im gonna experiment on a few scraps. 30 vs 22.5.
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Unread Yesterday, 11:59 AM   #11
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I just use the miter saw. I prefer base shoe moulding over quarter round for baseboard.
When you are nailing in base shoe, are you nailing straight back or are you nailing down at an angle? Every now and then I find that shooting the Brad nail straight back is actually pulling in the baseboard trim because there are some spots where the sheetrock did not go all the way down to the floor so there's nothing behind the baseboard at the very bottom where the shoe mold is.
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Unread Yesterday, 12:11 PM   #12
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Re: Best way to terminate base shoe at doorway trim


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Originally Posted by RetroJoe_1 View Post
When you are nailing in base shoe, are you nailing straight back or are you nailing down at an angle? Every now and then I find that shooting the Brad nail straight back is actually pulling in the baseboard trim because there are some spots where the sheetrock did not go all the way down to the floor so there's nothing behind the baseboard at the very bottom where the shoe mold is.
I think I do a slight angle most times, I'm not as consistently accurate as a robot down on my knees. But always into the baseboard, not the floor, and hopefully the baseboard doesn't have as much as a gap as the drywall. Also if you are using a shoe mould, there is a tall direction in profile, which should remain vertical instead of wide on the floor.

If I recall I use 1 3/16" 18ga brads, so there isn't a whole lot to extend into the drywall anyway. Not sure what you mean by pulling in the baseboard.
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Unread Yesterday, 12:29 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RetroJoe_1 View Post
When you are nailing in base shoe, are you nailing straight back or are you nailing down at an angle? Every now and then I find that shooting the Brad nail straight back is actually pulling in the baseboard trim because there are some spots where the sheetrock did not go all the way down to the floor so there's nothing behind the baseboard at the very bottom where the shoe mold is.
I think I do a slight angle most times, I'm not as consistently accurate as a robot down on my knees. But always into the baseboard, not the floor, and hopefully the baseboard doesn't have as much as a gap as the drywall. Also if you are using a shoe mould, there is a tall direction in profile, which should remain vertical instead of wide on the floor.

If I recall I use 1 3/16" 18ga brads, so there isn't a whole lot to extend into the drywall anyway. Not sure what you mean by pulling in the baseboard.
I'm actually using quarter round so it's equal height and width. That was what was originally with the house when it was built and I like the look. So what I'm talking about when I say pulling in the baseboard is this... Most of the time that sheetrock is not all the way down to the floor. Sometimes there's as much as an inch to an inch and a half Gap between the sheetrock and the hardwood. The base trim is of course all the way down to the floor. Nailed into every stud 16 on Center. Since the quarter round is also all the way down to the floor when I nail I am using 2-inch Brad's and trying to drive them into the studs behind the sheetrock. And it's going through the base trim and then there's nothing behind it at the very bottom so sometimes it seems to be going into the stud but the force of the nail and there being nothing to back the base trim in that area is pulling it away from the wall on the top section of the base trim. Does that make sense? I was under the impression you had to use longer brad nails and go into the studs. Could that be my problem? I was afraid that if I just go into the base trim that it would pull away.
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Unread Yesterday, 12:36 PM   #14
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Re: Best way to terminate base shoe at doorway trim


I would use short nails just into the base.
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Unread Yesterday, 12:41 PM   #15
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Re: Best way to terminate base shoe at doorway trim


On shoe mold I like to make a return, but 1/4 round don't look so good returned. JMHO
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