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#1 |
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![]() Attaching Crown Molding To Frameless Kitchen Cabinets
I am going to attached cherry crown molding to the top of our cherry kitchen cabinets and I have never installed crown molding before. I will install the cherry cleats flush with the cabinet face frames and position the crown molding as shown in the photo below. What concerns me is will the crown molding stay in place when I shoot nails and will 15 gauge finishing nails split the molding?
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#2 |
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Your post is a bit confusing in that you state you will install the crown flush with the cabinet face frame and the drawing shows frameless cabinets?
If you do have face frame cabinets ,what is the overlay of the doors and the width of the top rail? If frameless ,these are intended for a more "modern look " and usually don't have crown applied? Either way your drawing is not correct. |
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#3 |
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The cleats will be flush with the face of the cabinets and the bottom of the crown will be flush with the face of the door. It is my understanding this is how crown molding is placed. These are frameless cabinets. Sorry for the confusion.
Regarding the addition of crown, they were designed and supplied with the cabinets. In addition, the crown hides the vent pipe for the range vent. Last edited by Fire4Effect; 06-16-2015 at 02:21 PM. |
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#4 |
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I always nailed the cleat to the crown from behind, so there's no nail holes to fill or show, and then nailed the cleat to the cabinets.
Obviously, I installed the crown prior to hanging the cabinets, and you may not be able to do it that way. FWIW: If any part of the cleat, or your miter joints are subject to show, paint them black, then use WD40 to remove any overspray. |
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Fire4Effect (06-17-2015)
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You did not say what size crown you are using. 15 gage IMO is too big for fine trim work. I would use a 18 ga., The nails will hold the crown just fine, you should glue any cut miters you have. Good luck
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Thank you, I will pick up an 18 gauge brad nailer this week. I was thinking of using 2" brads.
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If you're installing the crown after the cabinets are installed, a couple of trim-head screws through the top of the cabinet, from the inside, will hold the cleat in place and be pretty inconspicuous.
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I thought about this after I posted. In this case, you should be able to attach the crown to the cleat by nailing it from behind, and then mount the cleat and crown from inside the cabinet. I really dislike it when I see the nailing done through the front of the crown where it WILL be seen. This way that's eliminated. More work, but well worth it. ![]() |
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Thanks, I already planned to use GRK 1-1/2" trim head screws.
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I've never heard of this method. I can't imagine getting a consistent ceiling/crown contact. I can see maybe bending the crown back to meet the ceiling then pin it. or worse yet, tight coped joints. do you use it often?
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I have done it this way more than once. Most of the time it's been when the crown didn't go to the ceiling, but a few times it did, and it worked out well. Yes, the joints must be done well, and no, you're not going to do this with a long bank of cabinets unless you have a lot of help setting the cabinets on a wall cleat. I did this with a bank of cabinets one time. A 12x42 wall, 24x42 corner, 12x42 & 36x42 wall. Yes, it worked, and yes, it was a PIA. I just despise having finish nails through the crown. |
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