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Old 10-20-2018, 02:28 PM   #1
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Best glue for steel. NOT a metalworker


Made my own wood turning tools, and the surface to mount the carbide cutter is not flat. Filed by hand. Also when I lock the cutter down it twists off center and "chatters" when cutting. So I am thinking about creating a "seat" for the cutter to sit in with some kind of adhesive. Which would be best? Also, what can I coat the cutter with so it wont become part of the tool as the adhesive sets? It needs to be rotated or replaced when dull.
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Old 10-20-2018, 02:53 PM   #2
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Re: Best glue for steel. NOT a metalworker


You might try some JB weld and a sheet of wax paper Just tighten it down enough to squeeze the JB Weld.


JB Weld can be filed so once it dries you can remove the cutter and clean up edges with a file.
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Old 10-20-2018, 05:08 PM   #3
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Re: Best glue for steel. NOT a metalworker


I think you need to cut the end off and start over.
cutting the recess for the bit tight when it is seated.
there should not be a gap that big between the holder shaft and cutter.
to discipline yourself in tool making, make them correct the first time
so you won't be correcting any deficiencies with a filler.
practice - nobody hardly gets any metalworking right the first time.
a grinder will get the initial profile. then it is by hand.
develop your filing technique so you can do it flat
and not in a rocking motion.
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Old 10-20-2018, 06:08 PM   #4
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Re: Best glue for steel. NOT a metalworker


Here ya go:
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Old 10-20-2018, 06:19 PM   #5
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Re: Best glue for steel. NOT a metalworker


Silver solder will work, but it'll be permanent
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Old 10-20-2018, 06:35 PM   #6
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Re: Best glue for steel. NOT a metalworker


Ayuh,..... Silver solder, or braze fill the areas mentioned by Johnny, 'n file it to fit,.....
I know I can "Stack" braze better than silver solder,....

Both will file easier than the base steel, yet provide a solid metal base for the tool bit,....
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Old 10-21-2018, 10:02 PM   #7
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Re: Best glue for steel. NOT a metalworker


I'm not sure of the "lingo" in wood turning but in metal that would be an indexable carbine insert being installed into a holder.

The geometry of the holder and insert should work together to present the insert top cut edge to be on the centerline of the axis of the workpiece, or slightly above or below, depending on intent of the insert.

Running an insert way off of centerline will produce poor results or tool life due to either the relief dragging on the workpiece or a dragging effect from a negative rake presentation to the work.

I agree with above that an insert needs holder body material to hold it. We would typically also have a "seat" which sits between the carbide insert and holder to provide additional support but for wood, it might not be needed.

I would NOT use glue, epoxy, JB, etc, etc, to mount the insert because vibration or "chatter" is the enemy and you want the stoutest mount you can get to get the best tool life and finish. That means supporting the insert directly with the body material of the holder and a tight fit.

However, remember if you DIY, carbide is VERY brittle so if you screw it up, you will probably break the insert either when installing or first hit on the work piece.

Are these holders really that expensive? I don't think I would mess with it.

You would need to chuck of piece of stock and work with the end of that bar and your tool to determine the bar centerline vs your cutter.
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Old 10-21-2018, 10:49 PM   #8
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Re: Best glue for steel. NOT a metalworker


EDIT: Please excuse most of what I said above. I forget these wood lathes just have a rest on the side and you just jam a tool into the wood. I am sure the geometries and running a cutter off or on centerline get missed, but it is probably excessive chat for this type of play.
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Old 10-22-2018, 04:51 PM   #9
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Re: Best glue for steel. NOT a metalworker


Store bought wood tool is $100-150. Made mine for around 25-00 including cutter. A decent seat is difficult with the round insert too.
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Old 10-22-2018, 05:17 PM   #10
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Re: Best glue for steel. NOT a metalworker


Sync - you need more tools.
if you are going to make your own lathe tools,
which is extremely cost effective, you need to invest
in a small set of carbide grinding bits or rotary files. I have a set
with a 1/4" shaft that I can use in the drill press or a
cheap HF pneumatic die grinder. (assuming you have an air compressor).
or even a good dremel tool that accepts a 1/4" shank. once you get
the hang of it, making the round seat for the cutter is a piece of cake.
be sure to leave a lot of meat under the cutter front for support.
and a couple of good quality metal files is a good idea too.
I am guessing you have spent some time on YouTube and Google
on how to make your own turning tools. it can be challenging
if you do not have the proper tools to do the job with.
sort of like working on your car without wrenches.
you'll get there, it just takes a little practice and perseverance.
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