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Old 06-02-2018, 01:30 PM   #1
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Putting in a wider fire rated door.


The door out to our garage needs replacing and is only 30" wide. Apparently 30" wide fire rated doors are special order and run anywhere from 400 to 500 dollars. A 32" can be bought for $170.

The wall is most likely load bearing so will need to widen the header. Plus will need to relocate the switch box.

There shouldn't be any other wires there and my only concern is if they come in from above where I'll have to put the new King stud. Could be a pain to move them over.

Would be nice to not have to redo any drywall, how likely would that be?

Anything else I could be missing?



On a side note, the door only had two screws through the upper hinge into the jack stud, no shims, maybe a nail on the striker side, but most likely held in by the brick molding.


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Old 06-02-2018, 01:58 PM   #2
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You might get by with yanking both 2x4 trimmers and replacing them with 1x4’s. Depends on how much room is there. You might crowd that switch but that wouldn’t be the first time.
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Old 06-02-2018, 02:05 PM   #3
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Re: Putting in a wider fire rated door.


If your going to replace it go with 36" wide door.
There is no way to do this without removing the sheetrock.
Why can it not be done by just making it wider on the right side instead of have to deal with the electrial?
Do not waste time by trying to just cut the sheetrock just enough to redo the framing.
Cut it all the way up to the ceiling to wall joint.
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Old 06-02-2018, 05:51 PM   #4
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Re: Putting in a wider fire rated door.


36" is probably best but there is a concrete step down from the house to the garage and it would be a pain to break up and make longer.

As to going to the right, we have a coat rack and it is already a bit tight already. But moving over enough for a 32" door wouldn't require fixing the step either.

Removing the drywall is probably the best bet.

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Old 06-04-2018, 12:43 AM   #5
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Re: Putting in a wider fire rated door.


You need 39" open above the door for the header and maybe more if you can't sneak the king studs in. Generally you look at old framing before you decide how to re frame.
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Old 06-04-2018, 04:05 PM   #6
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Re: Putting in a wider fire rated door.


Yesterday after explaining to my wife what it'll take to replace the door, she asked why not just fix the old one? Was able to use clamps to get the door back in place, nailed in the door knob side and put some longer screws through the hinges, added shims and filled the gaps with great stuff for doors and windows. The greatstuff made a mess, even when I thought I wasn't using too much, still had a lot leak out! Got it cleaned and ready to redo the trim.

This morning my wife then asks me, why don't we go ahead and put a wider door on......

The drywall is really the main issue, the ceiling/wall interface and then the corner. The ceiling is textured, so if I cut it out all the way to the top of the wall to at the ceiling, I'm not sure how to put new tape and mud at the ceiling/wall interface. If I can leave 2-3 inches at the top as well as on the right side by the corner so I can tape and feather in the mud there. The left side just butts up against the brick of the fireplace.
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Old 06-04-2018, 04:14 PM   #7
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Re: Putting in a wider fire rated door.


Quote:
Originally Posted by HDS View Post
Yesterday after explaining to my wife what it'll take to replace the door, she asked why not just fix the old one? Was able to use clamps to get the door back in place, nailed in the door knob side and put some longer screws through the hinges, added shims and filled the gaps with great stuff for doors and windows. The greatstuff made a mess, even when I thought I wasn't using too much, still had a lot leak out! Got it cleaned and ready to redo the trim.

This morning my wife then asks me, why don't we go ahead and put a wider door on......

The drywall is really the main issue, the ceiling/wall interface and then the corner. The ceiling is textured, so if I cut it out all the way to the top of the wall to at the ceiling, I'm not sure how to put new tape and mud at the ceiling/wall interface. If I can leave 2-3 inches at the top as well as on the right side by the corner so I can tape and feather in the mud there. The left side just butts up against the brick of the fireplace.
We should have mentioned the corners, when removing drywall. Use a level or something as a straight edge against the wall or ceiling and side wall. The top of the wall has a double plate so there should be 2 1/2 solid there that you can use to reattach new drywall to. For the sides find a stud and cut beside it, later you just add another stud and carry on.
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