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Old 09-30-2017, 10:24 AM   #1
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Window seals


HI, I need opinions here. I hope I can explain this properly, thanks for listening

I've been living in this home for 6 years and have an addition that we use as the main family room. It has a foundation to below frost and exposed by about 18" above grade with a 6-8" slab pad. On the foundation is a 19" tall brick wall on the 3 exposed sides and sitting on that are windows till the 8ft. ceiling. the room is 17'x22' so I have 56' of 72" tall windows, no walls, just 6x6 posts between the
windows, sitting on the brick wall.

I installed new caulking outside around the windows except on the bottom flange to let any water properly evacuate and try as I might to insulate the slightest crack there's still huge drafts making their way in, not to mention the exposed foundation/slab that freezes when whipped by the wind.

I finally decided to remove the INSIDE oak capping around the 6x6's and I believe I found the problem but not sure if my solution is adequate or overkill or even just a bad idea.

I'll try to attach a simplistic diagram.

The windows have a flange flush with the outermost edge of the window that cover the rough-in opening completely ( in reality the rough in is just a 6x6 post) all the way around and as stated, I've applied caulk except at the bottom. From the inside under the inside capping there's a tentest between the windows with a 1/8" gap to the window frame. There may be a a tentest on each side also but I haven't opened more. ( not that it would make a difference except to insulate the post ) I can stick a knife by the window frame most of the way in to the front ( outside ) edge. I can also see flaking white expanded polystyrene that likely came on the inside of the window frame. so no other insulation.

What I was thinking of doing was cutting the tentest on a 45 to widen the opening and spray foam in there all around for about an inch or 2 to completely seal the inside part of the window but still leave enough open space in the frame depth to allow and infiltrations to escape through the open ( bottom ) edge of the outdoor frame.

Does this make sense and are there other more accepted practices to dealing with something like this?

Thanks
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Old 10-01-2017, 08:16 AM   #2
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Re: Window seals


Really could use a real picture so we can see what your seeing.
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Old 10-01-2017, 12:17 PM   #3
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Re: Window seals


HI, I can't seem to upload the diagram or a picture. I get an error that I need at least 1 post to upload. Not sure what to make of that since I've obviously posted.
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Old 10-01-2017, 02:47 PM   #4
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Re: Window seals


I think I've figured it out. and by the way, when i insert my moulding nail bar in a bit further I feel a bit of sponginess indicating to me that I have some batt insulation in there.
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Window seals-img_9034.jpg   Window seals-img_9036.jpg   Window seals-img_9037.jpg   Window seals-screen-shot-2017-10-01-3.34.15-pm.png  
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Old 10-05-2017, 03:22 PM   #5
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Re: Window seals


Any Suggestions?
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Old 10-05-2017, 04:07 PM   #6
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Re: Window seals


I don't recall you mentioning single pane or double pane windows?
Double pane is slightly better but that much glass is going to be difficult to heat.

Adding a low expansion foam around windows is a standard practice, however, if you have moisture getting in there the can foam is open cell and will soak up that moisture and be a problem. 90% of the issue around the windows is air leakage and that only needs a thin layer of caulking to stop it. The added thought of using the can foam as insulation is of little value, especially with all of that glass.

What is your objective, to heat that space to a comfortable level during winter. I'm not optimistic.

Thermal drapes, storm windows, or the shrink wrap plastic are alternatives.

Bud
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Old 10-05-2017, 04:17 PM   #7
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Re: Window seals


Thanks Bud, yes it's quite hard to heat that room and they are all double pane. My goal is to stop all the drafts though as I redo the interior finishes. All other areas of air sealing the room are either under way or planned I'm just unsure around the window frames.

So a bead of caulk will act just as efficiently as spray foam in my situation but not hold the moisture? If that's so then I'll definitely go that route and avoid widening the gap in the tentest but if there's even the slightest advantage of filling with foam I'll do whatever it takes to do it once and properly. My whole idea of filling on inch or 2 of foam and not the whole 6 inches was to allow open space for moisture to escape under the window on the outside.
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