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Old 12-16-2014, 09:39 PM   #1
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Wanting to insulate my floors


Having heat loss through my floor. Unsure what the best way to go about adding insulation would be.

My current plan is to get spray foam insulation. The house is a pier & beam foundation of 2' wide spacing on 2X6.

I looked up costs & this looks like it will run me around a thousand to do the entire 400sqft footprint.

Is there any cheaper option one would suggest? I am unsure how else I could insulate the floors. Thanks.
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Old 12-16-2014, 10:01 PM   #2
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2' Spacing? With 2x6? I'm more inclined to think it's 16" OC.

I personally would use fiberglass batts. That is what I used. I got the kind that is fully encased in plastic. Paper faced could get messy if it gets wet.

It comes in rolls. Measure the length of your joist bay...cut the insulation to length....drag under the house and put up into the bay.

You can use a stapler to hold them in place...or get a box of wires....they make these think stiff wires that fit perfect between two floor joists that are 16" OC. It's real fast.

Makes a big difference on keeping floors warm.

Mind you, it's not exactly fun....and the beer cost can be high.....you know, hang a couple of rows....grab a beer and admire your work....hang a couple more....grab another beer and pat yourself on the back....hang a couple more....convince yourself that the money your saving in heating will pay for more beer.
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Old 12-16-2014, 11:28 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ddawg16 View Post
2' Spacing? With 2x6? I'm more inclined to think it's 16" OC.

I personally would use fiberglass batts. That is what I used. I got the kind that is fully encased in plastic. Paper faced could get messy if it gets wet.

It comes in rolls. Measure the length of your joist bay...cut the insulation to length....drag under the house and put up into the bay.

You can use a stapler to hold them in place...or get a box of wires....they make these think stiff wires that fit perfect between two floor joists that are 16" OC. It's real fast.

Makes a big difference on keeping floors warm.

Mind you, it's not exactly fun....and the beer cost can be high.....you know, hang a couple of rows....grab a beer and admire your work....hang a couple more....grab another beer and pat yourself on the back....hang a couple more....convince yourself that the money your saving in heating will pay for more beer.

It might be 16" OC. I would have to get up under there & look but fairly sure its 2' OC.

I am okay with the beer cost being high. I considered fiberglass batts, my biggest concern with that however is keeping bugs from getting up into it.

I think I found a solution that might work & comes in around 250 bucks, though the R value will only be around 8.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:09 AM   #4
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Heat loss through the floor will be minimal.

Batt insulation should work fine and if you want super high performance, cover it with some rigid foam.
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Old 12-17-2014, 08:26 AM   #5
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I insulated my floor over an unconditioned crawl space last year. I heat the house almost exclusively with a wood stove and I'm sure a lot of air was leaking up through the floor as the stove burned.

I didn't do a scientific study, but overall the comfort level is much higher and I'm burning a lot less wood.

Used R-19 fiberglass batts and metal rod hangers. Took me about 4 days for a 24 x 40 floor. I think I could have done it in 2 days, but I was getting claustrophobic due to the low ceiling in the crawlspace. I just needed to get out of there and take breaks every few hours.
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:43 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hick View Post
I am okay with the beer cost being high. I considered fiberglass batts, my biggest concern with that however is keeping bugs from getting up into it.
Any insulation will be prone to bug/insect and rodent damage. Birds love spray foam. They need to keep warm too!
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Old 12-17-2014, 11:02 PM   #7
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FB or FG batt insulation with lath holding up some housewrap could work- or both; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...n-crawlspaces/. On your earlier foil faced foamboard for walls, either direction; pp. 26?; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...endations/view
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