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Old 08-17-2016, 03:02 PM   #1
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Storage building - framing/insulating questions


Hello DIY'ers! I need some feedback/help. I recently had a metal storage barn put up. It has 3 stalls with a gable down the center and lean-to on each side. 2 of the stalls are open for camper/boat storage and the third stall is fully enclosed with roll up and entry door and 3 windows. The enclosed part of the building is on a concrete slab and I plan to make it a wood workshop. It is 12' x 36' with a sloped roof from 8' x 10'. It is one of those kit style square metal tube with metal sheeting for the roof and walls type of building.

I planed to do a typical finish out on the inside with 16" on center 2x4 walls, 2x10 ceiling, wiring, bat insulation, sheetrock, etc.

If your still with me, this is where my question(s) comes in.

What is the correct way to insulate the roof portion? Can I just get the bat insulation with the vapor paper attached to it and staple to the joists and then cover with sheetrock? This would be my preferred method for DIY purposes and keeping costs down.
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Old 08-17-2016, 03:33 PM   #2
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Re: Storage building - framing/insulating questions


Not necessarily the best choice but yes, that would work. Ideally you would air seal first and then blown in cellulose or mineral wool might be a better choice of insulation.
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Old 08-17-2016, 07:43 PM   #3
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I'm not familiar with either of those products. Can you purchase at home centers or do I need to hire someone? By air seal do you mean spray some can foam along all corners and rooflines, Windows etc?
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Old 08-17-2016, 07:52 PM   #4
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Here are some photos of the building.
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Storage building - framing/insulating questions-image_1471481418524.jpeg   Storage building - framing/insulating questions-image_1471481502636.jpeg  
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Old 08-17-2016, 10:00 PM   #5
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Re: Storage building - framing/insulating questions


Since you are in hot country, have you made any plans to ventilate the different spaces? Will any of the space be cooled with ac?

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Old 08-18-2016, 07:28 AM   #6
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Yes I plan to put a window unit in the back wall.
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Old 08-18-2016, 12:17 PM   #7
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Re: Storage building - framing/insulating questions


Ventilation is generally a continuous natural flow of air not a window or ac unit. The two concerns are heat and moisture although the moisture would be a function of what you bring in or inside activities.

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Old 08-19-2016, 07:45 PM   #8
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To clarify this is one big room with the floor space measuring 12' x 36'. It will be a workshop. There is no room in the ceiling for ventilation. I could put a few registers along the very top of the higher 10 foot wall and the would vent through a small opening that runs the length of the top of that wall. I don't believe venting through the rooftop in this case would be a good idea.
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Old 09-06-2016, 09:34 PM   #9
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I'm moving along with my plan to finish this out using 16" on center 2 x 4 walls with 16" 2 x 8 ceiling joists resting on the walls, electric and drywall. Attaching some interior shots.
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Storage building - framing/insulating questions-image_1473215548056.jpg   Storage building - framing/insulating questions-image_1473215582709.jpg  
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Old 09-10-2016, 04:57 PM   #10
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So anyone reading this I could still use help/suggestions since I've never done this type of thing. Now I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to put up an adhesive type of radiant barrier on the underside of this roof, since it is just sheet metal.

I'll be using 2 x 8's for the ceiling joists and their should be a small airspace between the insulation and underside of the roof. The roof has about a 10 degree pitch to it with air gaps on each high and low sides.
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Old 09-10-2016, 04:59 PM   #11
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Storage building - framing/insulating questions-image_1473544695910.jpg   Storage building - framing/insulating questions-image_1473544721664.jpg  
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Old 09-11-2016, 01:36 PM   #12
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Re: Storage building - framing/insulating questions


Do you have slots at the top of the high wall I(not in the roof) running all along the length and slots at the top of the low wall (not in the roof) running all along the length?

Have them and cover them with screen to keep insects out.

Install batt insulation as you described but not covering the slots and with a gap against the roof underside.

Note: The ribs in the roof need to be big enough that there are gaps underneath so air can go all the way up the roof all the way from the lower slots to the upper slots.

This is primarily to get rid of winter moisture that may get up there from a less than hermetically sealed ceiling. Due to the limited square inches of migratory space above the girders, there will not be that much air movement on a hot day.

I would think that the roof itself, being metal, is as good a radiant barrier against the sun's heat as any. You could optionally put another radiant barrier on the underside of the ceiling to retard loss of heat in winter.
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Stick to your lawn watering schedule until it really pours. Otherwise the storm might miss and the part that gets watered last (3 days away?) will dry up.

Last edited by AllanJ; 09-11-2016 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 09-11-2016, 10:25 PM   #13
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Re: Storage building - framing/insulating questions


Quote:
Originally Posted by AllanJ View Post
Do you have slots at the top of the high wall I(not in the roof) running all along the length and slots at the top of the low wall (not in the roof) running all along the length?

Have them and cover them with screen to keep insects out.

Install batt insulation as you described but not covering the slots and with a gap against the roof underside.

Note: The ribs in the roof need to be big enough that there are gaps underneath so air can go all the way up the roof all the way from the lower slots to the upper slots.
Yes, on the high side wall there was a pretty good gap to the outside that I already covered with gutter screen that fit perfectly. There was actually a small dead bird that had already gotten through the gap. The low side has a gap but is covered on the outside by metal trim in a box shape about the size of a gutter. As long as I keep my insulation thickness correct I should have a 2 - 3" gap between the top of the insulation and metal roof for air flow. So just to be clear, you think batt insulation with the paper on it stapled to the underside of the joists would be all I need?

Also, what about running my electric in the ceiling boards, could I run on top of my joists or do I need to drill and run through the center? If I run on top, essentially in the vent space any issues with that?
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Old 09-12-2016, 08:51 AM   #14
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Re: Storage building - framing/insulating questions


Electric cables or conduits can sit on top of the ceiling joists. Fasten every 4-1/2 feet; a cable tie looped through a screw eye in the wood joist will do.

An inch of air space (minimum, not average) just under the metal roof will suffice.
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Stick to your lawn watering schedule until it really pours. Otherwise the storm might miss and the part that gets watered last (3 days away?) will dry up.
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Old 09-12-2016, 08:57 PM   #15
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Cool, that should be doable! I'll continue to update as I go along with questions, progress, etc.
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