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Old 08-04-2012, 07:32 AM   #1
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should i ?


i have some of those, wth are they call, plastic things that staple to the underside of the roof, to prevent the blown insulation from blocking the sofit venting into the attic.

anyway. were they go from the attic down above the sofit. should i fill the gap ? seems to me, that if i don't, insulation can get down to the sofit = not a good thing ?
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Old 08-04-2012, 07:42 AM   #2
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Yes, you should. I fitted 1" flat foam board to the shape of the baffles and used Great Stuff foam to seal them in.

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Old 08-04-2012, 07:49 AM   #3
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that is good, but sounds overkill, too me. i was thinking i would stuff some extra fiberglass i have laying around, into the void. that area doesn't need to be air sealed. just blocked off so no blown in can get down there.
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Old 08-04-2012, 08:12 AM   #4
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Not overkill, common sense. It needs to be sealed all the way to the outside edge so the top of the wall is insulated. This was recommended to me by both the guys here, and the building inspector.
There are pics I posted in a thread somewhere here......

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Old 08-04-2012, 09:50 AM   #5
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The vent chutes you are describing (i.e. polystyrene ones) are for vaulted roof assemblies.



If you have an open attic, you just need the cardboard blockers that are stapled to the sides of the trusses and spray foam them at the bottom side to the top plate. Put some extra foam on the top plate as that area lacks overall R-Value most of the time.
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Old 08-04-2012, 02:28 PM   #6
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yeah, thats what i have. because of spacing i can only use 1 per bay.

what are those cardboard blockers you speak of ? google showed nothing. my bays are very irregular = 16"oc joists, 24"oc rafters. will they work for this ?

i imagine i can use the 3 (6 cut in half) chutes i have ? (since i don't feel like taking them back) i don't see why not.
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:13 PM   #7
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Old 08-04-2012, 03:30 PM   #8
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"Accuvent" baffles would have accomplished this as well. I did not find out about them until AFTER I had already purchased my baffles and done most of the foam sealing.... Day late and a dollar short, story of my life.

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Old 08-05-2012, 07:05 AM   #9
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cardboard, huh. seems to me that wouldn't last, dry rot.


mouse. i think i found that thread you speak of, it was started in 2009.
looked to me that sealing it is not so much the problem. but getting the top plate insulated is a priority. the problem for me is, there isn't much room for insulation. the foam vent touches the sheathing and the top plate at the same time

Last edited by Fix'n it; 08-05-2012 at 07:23 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:11 AM   #10
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If you mean there ISN'T much room, (typo?) then just get some non-expanding foam for windows and doors and seal away! My concern was bugs as well, which will crawl right through batt.

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Old 08-05-2012, 07:22 AM   #11
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see what i mean. what is a guy to do ?
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Old 08-05-2012, 07:25 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DangerMouse View Post
If you mean there ISN'T much room, (typo?) then just get some non-expanding foam for windows and doors and seal away! My concern was bugs as well, which will crawl right through batt.

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yeah, typo fixed.
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Old 08-05-2012, 08:26 AM   #13
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Use the baffle you have and SPF the gaps well.

Do you have a froth pak?
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Old 08-05-2012, 02:20 PM   #14
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no froth pak.
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Old 08-08-2012, 01:02 AM   #15
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Foam board/canned foam the wall cavity --in the top 4" and air seal as mentioned. Add f.b. vertically on the second top-plate upward. Thermal bridge will be reduced to lower plate only = R-4.38 to exterior.

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