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Old 02-10-2014, 11:07 AM   #16
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Thanks guys.

mikegp - that makes more sense with the rigid foam. Thanks for the clarification.

Hammer - thanks. I'll have to call and see if I can get a quote compared to doing it myself. I'm surprised nobody has done the SPF foam application themselves. Looks pretty easy, just maybe messy. My joist ends are deeper than 6" and my joist height is 12". Either way it looks like I should cut and fit rigid foam or go the SPF route. It was 22 below zero this morning and I tried to detect a draft by the batting that's there now and really couldn't do it by touch alone so I think it's pretty tight to start.

Thanks!
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:37 AM   #17
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. It was 22 below zero this morning and I tried to detect a draft by the batting that's there now and really couldn't do it by touch alone so I think it's pretty tight to start.

Thanks!
When you remove the batt insulation and look at the face that was against the rim joist, do you see dirt or discoloration on the batt insulation? This would indicate air movement
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:44 PM   #18
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Hammer, why are there still wall forms against the wood wall with slab concrete already poured, why was plate an inch short of wall end and overhanging wall on front, why the cold-joint in the concrete wall pour, why are the J-bolts short of getting the proper length of thread above the nut- lot of extra work chiseling the plate down. Does the concrete wall sit on the concrete slab? Instead of abutting it (per minimum code) with a (IMO) thermal break (FB) between them? I hope I'm wrong, here.....

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Old 02-11-2014, 08:40 AM   #19
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Hammer, why are there still wall forms against the wood wall with slab concrete already poured, why was plate an inch short of wall end and overhanging wall on front, why the cold-joint in the concrete wall pour, why are the J-bolts short of getting the proper length of thread above the nut. Does the concrete wall sit on the concrete slab? Instead of abutting it (per minimum code) with a (IMO) thermal break (FB) between them? I hope I'm wrong, here.....
Cant answer any of those "Why" questions you ask. If you happen to find this home or the person who built it then maybe you can get those answers. I was just showing the sill plate seal from a google search for sill plate seal.

Last edited by hammerlane; 02-11-2014 at 08:46 AM.
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Old 02-12-2014, 09:44 AM   #20
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msaeger - you mean leave the fiberglass against the outside wall and spray the foam on the inside of that? I certainly could do that. What would the benefit be?

Anybody spray their own foam with one of the kits?
I was asking if it's ok to do that.
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:30 AM   #21
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When you remove the batt insulation and look at the face that was against the rim joist, do you see dirt or discoloration on the batt insulation? This would indicate air movement
There is a little but not much. I've decided to look into the spray foam as far as getting a quote just to see what it would cost. If it's too much I'll look into doing it myself with one of the SPF kits or will do the rigid foam with sealer.

As far as adding friction fit 12" thick unfaced R30 between the joists throughout the ceiling for more noise reduction than anything else... is this a good idea or not? I know they make sound proofing foam boards and other products but they are all way more expensive than just fiberglass. I'm sure they work better too but adding the fiberglass should help right? I can get a bunch of R30 from a buddy pretty cheap so the price is right too.

hammerlane - did you ever put anything between your joists or leave them open?
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Old 02-12-2014, 10:41 AM   #22
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hammerlane - did you ever put anything between your joists or leave them open?
What do you mean did I ever put anything between the joists? The way you see with the spray foam in post #5 is the way it is now.
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:12 AM   #23
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I think he means insulating between the joists.
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:21 AM   #24
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Yes, I meant in the rest of the ceiling other than the rim area or did you spray foam the entire joist gap from end to end? Sorry for the confusion.
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Old 02-12-2014, 11:40 AM   #25
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Yes, I meant in the rest of the ceiling other than the rim area or did you spray foam the entire joist gap from end to end? Sorry for the confusion.
I think when you say ceiling you mean the underside of the subfloor??

The average cavity was 14.5" from joist to joist, 9" high and 6" deep. Yes the spray foam touched the underside of the subfloor shown by yellow in the photo.
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Old 02-12-2014, 04:51 PM   #26
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Maybe a photo will help. The rest of the open gap area between the joists directly beneath the subfloor, the area that you did not apply the spray foam to. This is the area some folks add insulation or sound proofing materials to. I was just wondering if unfaced 12" think R30 batt would be a good product to add here for reducing noise?
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Old 02-12-2014, 04:56 PM   #27
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No I did not add anything there but I believe It would help keep floor above warm and aid in sound
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Old 02-13-2014, 12:18 PM   #28
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Thanks Hammer.

Has anybody else added anything to this between the joists area for sound proofing?

Thanks!
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Old 02-15-2014, 01:36 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by North_Woods
Maybe a photo will help. The rest of the open gap area between the joists directly beneath the subfloor, the area that you did not apply the spray foam to. This is the area some folks add insulation or sound proofing materials to. I was just wondering if unfaced 12" think R30 batt would be a good product to add here for reducing noise?
Roxul has a product for sound deadening called Safe and Sound. I think it would be better than Fiberglas for sound absorption as it is more dense.

http://www.roxul.com/products/reside...39;n'sound
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Old 02-15-2014, 09:23 PM   #30
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Roxul (52 STC) or FG (50 STC) are neck-n-neck for sound, Best to decouple the drywall from the ceiling framing with channels. Both get wet/loss of R-value, both are air-permeable, though rock wool is better in a fire. http://www.roxul.com/files/RX-NA_EN/pdf/SafenSound.pdf

Compare #10;http://www.certainteed.com/resources...%20Control.pdf Also, #12, 13 for sound at floor....

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sourc...W6TAjQ&cad=rja

http://archive.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/eng/ib...ling-heat.html

Leaving the air gap to the floor sheeting will also benefit warmth as well as sound; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...al-performance

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