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Old 01-30-2016, 09:21 AM   #1
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Rim joist insulation with 2" rigid pink foam


I would like to insulate my rim joist with 2" pink foam
I'm planning to proceed as follow
1) caulk the perimeter of the cavities
2) cut the pink foam to leave a gap all around (gap = size of the foam spray nozzle)
3) Put some caulk on the back of the piece of foam to make it stick to the rim joist, making sure I have my gap all around
4) Put spray foam insulation by inserting the nozzle of the can inside that gap

What do you think?
About the spray foam, should I use the regular Great Stuff, or the window foam that expand less?

Thanks
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Old 01-30-2016, 10:00 AM   #2
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The gap is just to make it easy to get the foam in place. You don't have to purposefully leave a gap if the rims are consistent in size. You can butter the openings with sealant and then just caulk the edges as well.

Use the window and door foam (closed cell variant) if you are going to foam them in place.

Either way, your plan looks solid.
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Old 01-30-2016, 10:36 AM   #3
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If you are good at cutting, a press fit ends up being a lot faster. Where the foam likes a larger gap, using a caulk at the seams does well.

Check local codes to see if they will require the pink to be covered with an ignition barrier, like 1'2" drywall.

Bud

Last edited by Bud9051; 01-30-2016 at 10:38 AM. Reason: I wasn't done
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Old 01-30-2016, 10:44 AM   #4
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Save some bucks and use the the "2 component spray system" they sell at HD and Lowes. It will cut your costs, rather then buying all the cans of "great stuff". Just make a little dolly to pull around the 2 propane like canisters.


Soup
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Old 01-30-2016, 10:57 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by campbell804
Save some bucks and use the the "2 component spray system" they sell at HD and Lowes. It will cut your costs, rather then buying all the cans of "great stuff". Just make a little dolly to pull around the 2 propane like canisters. Soup
It will definitely save you time. Not sure about the money part.
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Old 01-30-2016, 11:45 AM   #6
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I don't mind the time.....I can do a few cavities here and there
I think the 2 can spray mix is messy
I will try the press fit and see if it's not too difficult to put it into the cavity
If too difficult, I guess I will go with my original plan
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Old 01-30-2016, 04:17 PM   #7
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Foam on Rim Joist


The 2" will be a good start, sealing the edges, but be sure to run a bead along the top plate at the concrete as well. Rather than tanks, I bought larger cans that thread onto a gun. Far nicer to be able to shut off as well as having an accurate reach with a 12" tip. Put lotion on hands prior, even if wearing good gloves, faster cleanup... and be ready to write off any clothes you wear because the foam sticks to everything. Foam gives off a toxic smoke so as noted above if your code requires or not, it is best to drywall over it. I ran Roxul on top which is also fire resistant, to exceed R20.
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Old 01-30-2016, 05:38 PM   #8
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I've done 3 cavities relatively quickly (2 large - 34 x 9 and 1 small - 6 x 9)
The foam cuts very well on my table saw...
I cut the foam as tight as possible. I caulked 1st the perimeter of the cavities, then install the foam and sealed with caulk again. Actually, I haven't used the spray foam....Is this OK?
Attached Thumbnails
Rim joist insulation with 2" rigid pink foam-img_1280.jpg   Rim joist insulation with 2" rigid pink foam-img_1281.jpg   Rim joist insulation with 2" rigid pink foam-img_1282.jpg   Rim joist insulation with 2" rigid pink foam-img_1283.jpg  
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Old 01-30-2016, 09:11 PM   #9
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That looks perfect, when are you coming over for my job . Can foam needs the gap idea you started with, but caulking does not and the caulking is much more forgiving when fingers are required.

A+

Bud
I do have a question for you, are you cutting that 2" in one pass with your table saw and if so what blade are you using. I have to cut 1" deep and flip it to avoid the blade grabbing the foam.

I have a small battery powered circular saw which runs at a much lower speed and it works great on foam, doesn't melt. Been wondering if I could slow my table saw down.

Thanks

Last edited by Bud9051; 01-30-2016 at 09:15 PM. Reason: Question
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:22 AM   #10
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"A+" sounds................French

Yes, I cut the 2" thick foam in 1 pass
I'm using that blade:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00
Mounted on a basic Ryobi table:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-15-...S10G/205216309

Cuts are very good (at least for my taste) and the foam is not melting at all

I will do more cavities today, but will post pictures because I have deep ones going under a bay window (cantilever?). For now, there is some fiber glass, lay loose and randomly. Not sure what is the best way to proceed in that case.....!

@+
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Rim joist insulation with 2" rigid pink foam-img_1284.jpg  

Last edited by french_guy; 01-31-2016 at 07:50 AM.
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:50 AM   #11
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I would be leaving one to be removed on a cold ass winter day to check for rim joist condensation / moisture. In the 3rd picture of reply #8 there is an indication of previous moisture on the bottom edges of the joist.
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Old 01-31-2016, 07:59 AM   #12
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Yeah, I saw it.....The previous insulation was fiber glass only, and it was kind of darkened in some places (condensation issue I guess?)
However my basement is not finished....

When I installed the foam, it was such a tight fit that even without the caulk, removing the board would mean breaking it !!!
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Old 01-31-2016, 08:15 AM   #13
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Fiberglass insulation would have allowed warm air to pass through it to reach the cold rim joist and form condensation. If a fiber material is used it must be well air sealed and depending upon the climate possibly vapor sealed. But air is the primary transporter of moisture vapor.

I use a similar blade to the one you linked, but my rigid is the blue type. I haven't yet tried that rose colored and I'm not sure if it is formulated differently or not. I will be buying more so will try some. I'll get a new blade as well as this one is now coated with residue.

Thanks,
Bud
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Old 01-31-2016, 08:21 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by french_guy View Post
I've done 3 cavities relatively quickly (2 large - 34 x 9 and 1 small - 6 x 9)
The foam cuts very well on my table saw...
I cut the foam as tight as possible. I caulked 1st the perimeter of the cavities, then install the foam and sealed with caulk again. Actually, I haven't used the spray foam....Is this OK?
thats some nice n neat work....
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Old 01-31-2016, 08:36 AM   #15
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+1

Looks very clean.

As Bud mentioned earlier, I would look at covering it with a ignition/fire barrier like fibrous insulation or drywall.
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