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Old 09-06-2015, 03:24 PM   #1
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retro install fiberglass batts from exterior


Hey,

I added an attached garage to the front of the house. I am removing the sheathing on the old house exterior. I am finding some spots with no insulation, other spots with kraft faced batts just jammed in, other spots with old insulation with 2 dead mice and droppings in it, and in others some old kraft faced batt insulation that look just fine...

So my hope is to take out the bad stuff and replace it and fill in the gaps with new. Question is how do i do this from the outside? Can I peal back the edges of the batts to allow me access to the flanges and staple them to studs every so often? These batts will be between the house and the new garage which will be insulated but not heated. A smaller section will be between the house and the garage attic.

I am in the north burbs of Chicago.

Thanks

Last edited by ryansdiydad; 09-06-2015 at 03:28 PM.
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Old 09-06-2015, 03:27 PM   #2
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Where is the home located? You may not even require a faced insulation batt. Are you talking about the insulation between the garage and the living space or between the living space and the outside wall?
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Old 09-06-2015, 03:31 PM   #3
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You were too fast.... I edited my post to include my location but you beat me to it.. I am in the north burbs of Chicago.

I am talking about what used to be the old exterior walls of the house which are now the walls between the interior living space and the new attached garage.
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Old 09-06-2015, 05:24 PM   #4
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Any vapor control layer would face the garage.
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Old 09-06-2015, 05:49 PM   #5
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Confused... Why should the vapor barrier between the living space and the garage face the garage and not the living space?
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:10 PM   #6
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WoW was confused or answering from his phone... I often get confused, comes with age, I think, Lol.

The vapor barrier always goes on the "warm in winter" side, toward the house in your heating climate. As it is a facing on fiberglass batt, it requires full contact with the drywall to stop any air gaps for convective loops or degrading of the R-value. If a tight fit, it does not require face stapling to the stud edges (under the drywall), because it is area weighed- meaning the surface area is the vapor retarder, it does not require air-tight because it is not an air-barrier (the drywall is). http://oikos.com/library/insulating_...lls/index.html

Add some rigid XPS to the studs after the cavity fill for a super job, thick enough and you won't need faced FG to limit condensation. Cover with drywall/tape per local code.

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Old 09-06-2015, 08:39 PM   #7
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awesome.. thank you Gary..
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Old 09-07-2015, 06:33 AM   #8
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Thanks Gary. That is what you get for trying to answer a post in between holes of golf.

Yes...vapor control layer (if insulation has it) goes towards the warm side of the assembly. In your case, the conditioned wall.

I agree with Gary that the better solution is some foam board, taped, air sealed, with an unfaced insulation, and then some ADA drywall.

I would also seal up the backside of the living space drywall wherever you see any gaps or cracks too. Put putty pads on the backs of any electrical boxes, seal sill plates, etc.

Thanks for the correction Gary.
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