R11 And R13 Same Thickness - Insulation - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
Advertisement


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Insulation

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Display Modes
Old 05-20-2012, 10:41 AM   #16
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: far sw sub chicago
Posts: 8,016
Rewards Points: 322
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailbags View Post
If you look at it a five gallon bucket is about the same as if you bought the same amount of caulking to do the bottom plates the top plates and every seam in the stud cavities. you might even save money. And a whole lot of time. and yes you can DYI it your self rent a airless paint sprayer and buy it from a lumber yard.

Also to answer your second question 2x6 is now the norm for exterior walls so you can have a good amount of insulation in them.
how much is a 5gl bucket ? i may just buy a sprayer. as renting it 10 times would cost more.

how did 1 1/2" turn into 2x6 ?
Fix'n it is online now   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 05-20-2012, 11:10 AM   #17
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Pacific North west
Posts: 1,311
Rewards Points: 626
Default


Try the UL Rated tests even the test there show a burn pattern in paper mulch insulation. and in 99.99 percent of all house fires caused by a heat source it was the insulation that helped spread the fire NFPA 2007. Is paper mulch approved yes! does it pass the min standards yes! do the chemicals break down? Yes! UL test have shown it to not be as effective six month after installation. Do you install it? do you work for a insulation company that markets it? because you sound like you have a vested interest in it? I do not have a investment in either or. I am just pointing out the facts. celulose does burn and does smolder and does create embers even the maker of it had a fire in their insulation when the retardant was brand new. That says something right there. I have yet to see a fiberglass batt smolder and create any embers. I have seen it melt. I also weld and use fiberglass blankets for a fire blocking so slag won't drop down I have yet to see a cellulose blanket made for welding. Also Fiberglass is a very green insulation some of it is made from 62 percent post consumer contents and almost all companies now have them free of phenols and formaldehyde and petroleum binders. I have installed both in homes and both do work but I would side with a very time tested and proven product that is cheap and easy to use.
Two more things that turns me off from Cellulose.
1 when it gets wet the fire retarding is lessened and how do they blow it in they mix it with water?
2. It has newspaper ink in it and a lot of kids and people are allergic to that stuff.
3. because it is made from card board and paper it might already have mold in it.
Just stuff to think about be for using it.

Last edited by Nailbags; 05-20-2012 at 11:51 AM.
Nailbags is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 05-20-2012, 11:27 AM   #18
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Pacific North west
Posts: 1,311
Rewards Points: 626
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix'n it View Post
how much is a 5gl bucket ? i may just buy a sprayer. as renting it 10 times would cost more.

how did 1 1/2" turn into 2x6 ?
It is around 175 a bucket prices may very but is cheaper then ten cases of Quad calk and being on your knees caulking the bottom plate. two hours and can be done on a 2,000 sqf home and cleaned up.
Nailbags is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 05-20-2012, 11:39 AM   #19
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Southeast US
Posts: 244
Rewards Points: 150
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by elmaur View Post
If a contractor told me he would frame a wall with 1 1/2" depth with R11 fiberglass insulation this would be wrong?
Is there a valid reasoning behind such a shallow wall? I'd want a minimum wall depth of 6", where you have many choices for insulating (of which FG should not be included). I was recommended to Roxul (stonewool) via the resident experts here. I researched it, ordered it (through Lowes.com) and installed it. I couldn't be happier. It also dampens sound, resists vermin, insects, will not absorb water and will not mold. It's also does not burn up to 2100 degrees farenheit. R-value is R-4+ per inch.:

http://www.youtube.com/results?searc....0.zboOhEjKBsE

It has no vapor barrier, but vapor barriers in climate zone 2 are not required by IRC code (you should check your county codes and research the viability of this for your climate!).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailbags View Post
And if you really want to seal your home before you insulate it use this product!
http://ecoseal.knaufinsulation.us/ This is D'a Bomb! faster then using tubes of caulk!
Looks good, but the ease of use could be countered by sprayer clean-up hassles. I used silicone. It wound up costing me around $75 for a 250 sqft space (about 300 sqft of external wall), sealing all cavity studs, floors, etc.

Last edited by rightit; 05-20-2012 at 11:45 AM.
rightit is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to rightit For This Useful Post:
Nailbags (05-20-2012)
Old 05-20-2012, 11:56 AM   #20
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Tucson,AZ
Posts: 218
Rewards Points: 217
Default


[QUOTE=rightit;925106]Is there a valid reasoning behind such a shallow wall? I'd want a minimum wall depth of 6", where you have many choices for insulating (of which FG should not be included). I was recommended to Roxul (stonewool) via the resident experts here. I researched it, ordered it (through Lowes.com) and installed it. I couldn't be happier. It also dampens sound, resists vermin, insects, will not absorb water and will not mold. It's also does not burn up to 2100 degrees farenheit. R-value is R-4+ per inch.:

My exterior walls are slump block which is exposed on the interior. No insulation and very common in AZ. I would like to build a wall on the inside to cover the block because I do not care for the look and to provide a space for insulation. The rooms are small so I do not want to take up too much of the interior space thus a wall of only 1 1/2" depth.
elmaur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2012, 12:19 PM   #21
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Pacific North west
Posts: 1,311
Rewards Points: 626
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by rightit View Post
Is there a valid reasoning behind such a shallow wall? I'd want a minimum wall depth of 6", where you have many choices for insulating (of which FG should not be included). I was recommended to Roxul (stonewool) via the resident experts here. I researched it, ordered it (through Lowes.com) and installed it. I couldn't be happier. It also dampens sound, resists vermin, insects, will not absorb water and will not mold. It's also does not burn up to 2100 degrees farenheit. R-value is R-4+ per inch.:

http://www.youtube.com/results?searc....0.zboOhEjKBsE

It has no vapor barrier, but vapor barriers in climate zone 2 are not required by IRC code (you should check your county codes and research the viability of this for your climate!).



Looks good, but the ease of use could be countered by sprayer clean-up hassles. I used silicone. It wound up costing me around $75 for a 250 sqft space (about 300 sqft of external wall), sealing all cavity studs, floors, etc.
Rock wool is good stuff it does not burn period it melts. As for the properties of sound proofing and no mold or water absorbing or vermin Fiberglass holds the same. just itchy some of the newer stuff from some companies the itchy is almost gone. I do love rock wool. I would put in my top three for insulation rock wool fiberglass and spray foam. And I would always go with a min R 21 in the walls and r 40 in the ceilings. And Rock wool is nice and thick and can do well in the R factors needed.
Nailbags is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2012, 11:50 PM   #22
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,730
Rewards Points: 526
Default


Posts have been removed. Please remember our first forum rule: "Users shall treat each other with respect at all times on DIYChatroom.com. Name calling, personal attacks, or other inappropriate behavior will not be allowed and may cause your account to be banned." Found here and at the bottom right of every page under "Privacy Statement"; http://www.diychatroom.com/faq.php?f...aq#faq_privacy

Please try to keep on topic while helping the OP, any other discussion should have a new thread started- rather than take time and answers from the original poster, thank you.

Gary
__________________
If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent.
17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-20-2012, 11:56 PM   #23
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Pacific North west
Posts: 1,311
Rewards Points: 626
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Posts have been removed. Please remember our first forum rule: "Users shall treat each other with respect at all times on DIYChatroom.com. Name calling, personal attacks, or other inappropriate behavior will not be allowed and may cause your account to be banned." Found here and at the bottom right of every page under "Privacy Statement"; http://www.diychatroom.com/faq.php?f...aq#faq_privacy

Please try to keep on topic while helping the OP, any other discussion should have a new thread started- rather than take time and answers from the original poster, thank you.

Gary
they asked for references i gave them all the information to let people decide for themselves One person got all bent so I back up my claims with hard facts and Those should be posted.
Nailbags is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 12:10 AM   #24
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,730
Rewards Points: 526
Default


Nailbags, I understand your concern. This thread was getting off topic from the OP's questions. They would have said your last reference was from NAIMA, a bias group of fiberglass insulation manufacturers. This would only fuel the discussion, not address the OP's concerns. Start a new thread yourself if interested in more discussion on this one subject in depth. I have done extensive research on this topic and will gladly contribute, in a new thread.

elmaur, is XPS or EPS rigid foamboard out of your price range for that thin wall?

Gary
__________________
If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent.
17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 03:42 AM   #25
Member
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Tucson,AZ
Posts: 218
Rewards Points: 217
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Nailbags, I understand your concern. This tread was getting off topic from the OP's questions. They would have said your last reference was from NAIMA, a bias group of fiberglass insulation manufacturers. This would only fuel the discussion, not address the OP's concerns. Start a new thread yourself if interested in more discussion on this one subject in depth. I have done extensive research on this topic and will gladly contribute, in a new thread.

elmaur, is XPS or EPS rigid foamboard out of your price range for that thin wall?

Gary
I am not sure what XPS or EPS is but I do know about a product made by R Max sold at Home Depot. It's a closed cell polyisocyanurate rigid foam. It is expensive about $26 4x8x1.5". The 1.5" thickness has an R9.4. I'll have to consider using it.

EDIT: Just researched xps /eps. I think the polyiso has higher R values and is probably more expensive but I do need to get the highest R value for the space I have.

Last edited by elmaur; 05-21-2012 at 03:57 AM.
elmaur is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-21-2012, 07:14 AM   #26
Member
 
bubbler's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Boston MA area
Posts: 545
Rewards Points: 344
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by Nailbags View Post
Also people once said that asbestos was safe
Asbestos was known even to the ancient Greek's and Roman's to cause lung diseases... I'm pretty sure that even during the days of it's installation 'the experts' knew it was dangerous--but they felt that installed in a wall, where it would be undisturbed, it would be safe enough.

Cellulose doesn't cause lung cancer.

To stay somewhat on topic. For my 2x4 walls I used R-15 in some places. So there are certainly batts available in difference densities.
__________________
My advice is based on anecdotal knowledge or personal experience. I'm not a professional no matter how matter of factly I may say something
bubbler is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Top of Page | View New Posts