Insulating My Concrete Block Walls In Workshop - Insulation - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
Advertisement


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Insulation

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Display Modes
Old 04-23-2015, 11:08 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: North Central Michigan
Posts: 79
Rewards Points: 152
Default

Insulating my concrete block walls in workshop


Hello everyone, I have a question about insulating my workshop, The walls in my workshop are standard concrete block and I want to insulate them with 2 inch foam sheathing. I was going to glue the foam board right to the block walls and then run furring strips over the foam to attach my finished sheathing(either drywall or osb). I was going to attach the furring strips by drilling through the furring strips and using concrete screws(tapcons). Will this work or is there a better method? Thank you.
pointer80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-24-2015, 05:42 AM   #2
Exterior Construction
 
Windows on Wash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Washington DC Metro Area (VA, MD, DC)
Posts: 26,064
Rewards Points: 928
Blog Entries: 41
Default


That should work just fine. That is probably the easiest way to do it.
Windows on Wash is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-24-2015, 11:26 PM   #3
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,730
Rewards Points: 526
Default


Where in Michigan are you? 2" foam may not be enough... XPS or EPS, faced or unfaced?
Closest city?

Gary
__________________
If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent.
17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 04-25-2015, 11:30 AM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: North Central Michigan
Posts: 79
Rewards Points: 152
Default


I live in northern Michigan about a hour north of Grand Rapids. I plan on using 2 inch xps on the walls. I have 10 ft. high sidewalls and 6 inch insulation in front wall and ceiling(the front wall is 2x6 construction and the 2 side walls and back wall are concrete block). Originally this structure was built to be a "inground house" with a walk out front but the people sold the property to us and I built a house with a attached garage and turned this structure into my workshop garage. I heat with a outdoor wood boiler and have a hanging heat unit in my workshop. You definately can notice when the heat is on even without any insulation on the sidewalls, but that is about it. I want it comfortable in there to be able to work but I do not plan on keeping it super hot either. If I could be out there in a sweatshirt in the coldest months I would be happy. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thank you
pointer80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2015, 03:40 PM   #5
Exterior Construction
 
Windows on Wash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Washington DC Metro Area (VA, MD, DC)
Posts: 26,064
Rewards Points: 928
Blog Entries: 41
Default


Given that is is a workspace and your won't be heating it to 72 or that much, 2" of XPS should be good.
Windows on Wash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2015, 09:49 PM   #6
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,730
Rewards Points: 526
Default


Depends on how thick a sweater you want to wear.... Minimum Energy Code for a house with mass walls (above-grade) in your location requires R-17 (footnote "i"); http://energycode.pnl.gov/EnergyCode...state=Michigan

If you heat it to 68* F, using the 3 coldest months average temperatures, no condensation on the CMU's at above-grade wall elevation= 23% Relative Humidity.

4' below grade would rate +5* warmer wall, safe with interior RH at 44%.
8' below-grade = +10* warmer with 52% RH.

Change it to 60* indoor temp= only 21% RH at above-grade portionswith block/insulation face temp at 30*F.

4' down = 29% RH 8' down = 35% RH

So it depends on: the elevation of wall in the earth warming soil, the thickness of the foam (2" is below code even for your area, cross the county line into Newaygo - R-19 required in basement), the outside ambient air temps and the temperature you set for comfort. I used 25*F for the math, anything lower will give lower yet RH. Be sure to clean the CMU's of dirt/organic matter that could mold before you glue the foam board. Use 1' square (roughly) grid pattern to limit workshop air/moisture from compromising it all, ADA the drywall; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...wall-approach/

Gary
__________________
If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent.
17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2015, 10:52 PM   #7
Exterior Construction
 
Windows on Wash's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Washington DC Metro Area (VA, MD, DC)
Posts: 26,064
Rewards Points: 928
Blog Entries: 41
Default


Well… If you want to get all factual about it.

Gary, as usual, has provided you with all the technical information that you could hope for to make an informed decision.

He's usually 99% right about these things and he his certainly correct that you only get one chance to insulate this thing properly depending on your intended use.

If you wind up using a supplemental heating source for the workspace that introduces additional humidity, i.e. combustion type heating sources, you run the risk of having condensation issues at the wall.

XPS is a generally very vapor movement prohibitive insulation and, if the insulation is well attached, sealed at the seams, and sealed to the block, there shouldn't be much moisture even making it to the block wall.

If you're worried about wall depth or don't want to mess with framing, add another inch to be sure and call it a day.
Windows on Wash is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2015, 03:54 PM   #8
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,730
Rewards Points: 526
Default


The more information one gets, the better choice of product for the application, IMHO.
With EPS Type 1-9; XPS- unfaced, foil-faced, poly-faced; and Polyiso, with R values ranging from R-7.4 to 14 for 2" product. Add in no idea where he was at, hard for me to tell him it sounds good.

Gary
__________________
If any ads are present below my answer or words underlined/colored, I do not condone/support/use the product or services listed/linked to, they are there without my consent.
17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2015, 08:45 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: North Central Michigan
Posts: 79
Rewards Points: 152
Default


Thanks for the info guys, very helpful. After I did some pricing and checking I actually think my best bet is going to be to run 1/2 inch foam on the walls as a moister barrier and then stud the walls and run fiberglass insulation in the cavities. I was surprised that the price is almost the same. I believe the installation will be just as easy because there will be no drilling a bunch of holes in the concrete block and screwing a zillion tapcons. Also I will be getting about R-17 instead of R-10. What do you guys think? Thanks.
pointer80 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Concrete Block Wood Frame Flashing rjpj Concrete, Stone & Masonry 0 09-12-2012 10:47 AM
Concrete (Cinder) Block Barebones Home : Seeking Advice granadaCoder Building & Construction 11 08-11-2012 07:03 AM
framing walls to concrete block basement walls byn Remodeling 3 03-01-2012 01:09 AM
insulating existing walls on concrete bldg lkparlato HVAC 3 08-03-2011 06:59 PM
Vinyl Window in Concrete Block Wrongwrench Carpentry 4 12-07-2010 10:21 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts