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Old 09-23-2015, 11:20 PM   #16
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http://www.cmdgroup.com/building-codes/ohio/
Hit the link there.

Poly is usually laid with overlapping edges as per code and up the concrete wall a little- as per code. Acoustical caulking will hold to to the wall pretty good and tape the seams. Caulk/sealant the slab/wall gap to stop moisture/air movement. If you had a moisture problem through the slab, I would say to seal the poly to the slab as in laying wood on concrete; http://buildingscience.com/documents...or%2520barrier

Let us know what they say...

Gary
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17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
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Old 09-24-2015, 07:59 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary in WA View Post
http://www.cmdgroup.com/building-codes/ohio/
Hit the link there.

Poly is usually laid with overlapping edges as per code and up the concrete wall a little- as per code. Acoustical caulking will hold to to the wall pretty good and tape the seams. Caulk/sealant the slab/wall gap to stop moisture/air movement. If you had a moisture problem through the slab, I would say to seal the poly to the slab as in laying wood on concrete; http://buildingscience.com/documents...or%2520barrier

Let us know what they say...

Gary
Well the link is good for Ohio but items in the link are dead. I found a phone number and called. Talked with a very nice person that asked what I needed and I gave her a brief explanation. She told me they have no one on site that could give me any advice, so I asked if there was a website that I could go to and find the information myself. I then asked if I needed a permit to do what I was doing. She said no. Her words "it sounds like you are just putting in new insulation and making the space more efficient." I said yes but was looking for directions on what to do. She asked if I had joined a forum online because that is what most people do. I said so no permit, but what about final inspection. She said don't worry about it. I'm sure you will do better than most contractors. I said ok. Thank you for your information. She did tell me Columbus is growing at a pace so fast that most of the effort is focused on commercial space and they have very few inspectors for residential unless it is an add on space or new build.
So I am going to check out that other link you included and see what it has to say. I think between everyone I have enough info to get going. Believe it or not the temps are on the decline, still in the 70's during the day but getting into the 50's at night. Just one question if I put up the poly do I need to put up the foam board insulation along the block like a previous member mentioned. I want this place warm. I only have 4 -6 inches under the joist because the slab is not level. So a 4 x 8 sheet that is 2' thick will do the whole space if I calculated correctly. If I do the poly I assume the foam board would go on before? Let me know. Thank you so much for the all the valuable information!
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Old 10-06-2015, 02:47 PM   #18
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No poly if FB, as WoW said in #9. Any residual moisture could be handled by the HVAC system. On FB under joists, similar to yours-same principle; Fig.7-http://www.airvent.com/index.php/products/intake-vents/continuous-soffit-vents

Warm floors; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...al-performance

Gary
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17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
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Old 10-06-2015, 03:27 PM   #19
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Sorry, wrong link. Here; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...n-crawlspaces/

Gary
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17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
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