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Old 11-21-2014, 11:43 AM   #16
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I would love to know how many people successfully filed a warranty claim with drylok or any other similar product. Every story I have ever heard just ends with them blaming it on the installation/application/prep work. Warranties aren't what they used to be.
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Old 12-01-2014, 04:53 PM   #17
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As I noted on another thread yesterday, be very careful buying pulled foam from roofers. If it has been pulled for a reason (like it has been wet and gone through freeze/thaw cycles) it may be pretty useless. Apparently the cycles break up the foam and any moisture that gets near them will wick in, and freeze again, rendering the R value negligible. If the foam is good, why was it replaced?
The polyiso foam is usually replaced when a commercial metal roof is replaced.
It has nothing to do with the foam condition. I have a large quantity that I am using in a new house. It was purchased within days of comming off a large commercial roof and no sign of being wet or damaged.

JM
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Old 12-02-2014, 09:53 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jklingel View Post
As I noted on another thread yesterday, be very careful buying pulled foam from roofers. If it has been pulled for a reason (like it has been wet and gone through freeze/thaw cycles) it may be pretty useless. Apparently the cycles break up the foam and any moisture that gets near them will wick in, and freeze again, rendering the R value negligible. If the foam is good, why was it replaced?
Being careful when buying used Poly Iso is a good idea I will add a lot of the time the insulation is replaced because the new roof installation has a manufactures warranty, the manufacture will not cover the old insulation. They want new. Poly Iso is really easy to tell if it has been wet before. Also most insulations R value will decrease over time.

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XPS and EPS are far less susceptible to degradation if I recall correctly. Most XPS and EPS are skinned of some sort and therefore absorb little to no moisture.
EPS is like a sponge, it will absorb an incredible amount of moisture and hold it in, Iso is similar. XPS is better but still will absorb some moisture.

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The polyiso foam is usually replaced when a commercial metal roof is replaced.
It has nothing to do with the foam condition. I have a large quantity that I am using in a new house. It was purchased within days of comming off a large commercial roof and no sign of being wet or damaged.

JM
Correct. We have a few 100 squares of 2.7" Iso we pulled off a ballast roof this summer. The wet went in the trash the good 4x8 sheets went on the trailer.
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Old 12-03-2014, 10:26 AM   #19
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EPS is like a sponge, it will absorb an incredible amount of moisture and hold it in, Iso is similar. XPS is better but still will absorb some moisture
Agreed.

I was referring (gotta rack my brain as that was 2012) to the poly-faced EPS.

Regardless, you have to have properly water sealing and management on the exterior of the foam/wall combo.
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Old 12-03-2014, 11:57 AM   #20
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Agreed.

I was referring (gotta rack my brain as that was 2012) to the poly-faced EPS.

Regardless, you have to have properly water sealing and management on the exterior of the foam/wall combo.
We mostly see regular white EPS, I've had 3" 4x8' weigh had to be well over 400 lbs. Amazing how much a concrete deck will let the water sit there.

They have so many new ridged board insulations it's not easy to keep track of everything.

To me EPS = white popcorn.
XPS = Blue/pink/ probably every other color. 10X as stiff as EPS.

Iso is Iso.

Of course they all can have aluminum facer and a host of other stuff.
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Old 12-03-2014, 01:05 PM   #21
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The house science article I used for my planned insulation used XPS against the block and the polyiso over the XPS. I plan to do the same. The key to success has to be a dry block wall for either to work.

JM
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Old 12-06-2014, 03:27 PM   #22
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The only reason to use foil faced board is if you have an air gap between the foil and the interior or exterior surface. The foil is designed to reflect heat and if it is hard up against the inside surface of drywall, or the inside surface of your poured concrete basement wall, it will not serve any function. If you can set the foil backed phone a half inch away from your drywall then it will serve as a functioning reflector for the interior heat and reflected back into the building. In all other cases where the foam is in contact with building materials, just use the plane foam.

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Which foam board would you recommend? WHat about foil faced board? The garage wasn't spackled so im working on that now. What harm will I do if I don't get the sheetrock up right away. Im planning on taping all the foam board joints with foil tape.
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Old 12-06-2014, 04:07 PM   #23
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On my basement house I have decided to go with one inch blue XPS against block, two and one half inch recycled polyiso, then one half inch blue board on top for a total of four inches. All of this will be held tight by placing the studs flat side against foam leaving a 1 1/2 space that will also be filed by cut poly ISO to fill the spaces. I plan to overlap all joints nearly two feet and to use calk to seal edges. I have just done a test of the liquid nails "foam board caulk" and found it to work well. I glued a three inch square of XPS to block and iit stuck immediately and after it set was difficult to remove.

JM
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