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Old 05-13-2019, 08:57 AM   #1
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Looking to Clarify a Few Details About Drywall Mudding


Hi Everyone,



Hope this finds you all doing well. I'd be grateful for any insight here from someone who can help me wrap my head around a few things. I know that drywall mudding is a highly individualized thing from person-to-person in terms of how things are down and preference, so I'm just looking to gain some general insight:



1) Regarding finish mud: I've read that most pros will utilize green-top (all purpose) for bedding tape and blue-top (?) for finishing/skim coats. The only thing is, I've also read that "Plus 3" and "Dust Control" blue top muds are not popular whatsoever and regarded as crap. These are the only two blue-top muds I've been able to find in my region at the retailers. Is there a mud I can trust for finish/skim that someone would recommend? Will one of these suffice or should I dig for another particular product?



2) Regarding thickness schedule: Does it make more sense to bed the tape in thicker mud, or soupier mud, and then subsequently either go thicker or thinner to finish? I've seen both and was wondering what the intuitive answer here is: start thick and progress thin, or start thin and progress thick?



3) Regarding numbers of coats: Am I right in assuming that a tape coat, plus two follow-up finish coats are the norm?



4) Regarding fanning out a butt joint: I've seen guys on Youtube online do what looks to be almost 3 passes on these, letting them dry and fanning periodically over a few days, how can I start thinking about doing a butt joint? One swipe middle, overlap whip on each side, let it dry. Then same thing on the final coat, obviously fanning out the joint once more?



5) For inside corners: Given that most recommend letting angle side dry before coating the other, is this still something advised for two coats? Meaning, if one were to do one angle at a time, and do 2 coats, that would require at least 4 days of mud dry time, is this right?



Sorry about the lengthy post guys, i'm just wracking my brain over here! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 05-13-2019, 10:04 AM   #2
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Re: Looking to Clarify a Few Details About Drywall Mudding


Quote:
Originally Posted by rkearns10 View Post
Hi Everyone,



Hope this finds you all doing well. I'd be grateful for any insight here from someone who can help me wrap my head around a few things. I know that drywall mudding is a highly individualized thing from person-to-person in terms of how things are down and preference, so I'm just looking to gain some general insight:



1) Regarding finish mud: I've read that most pros will utilize green-top (all purpose) for bedding tape and blue-top (?) for finishing/skim coats. The only thing is, I've also read that "Plus 3" and "Dust Control" blue top muds are not popular whatsoever and regarded as crap. These are the only two blue-top muds I've been able to find in my region at the retailers. Is there a mud I can trust for finish/skim that someone would recommend? Will one of these suffice or should I dig for another particular product?



2) Regarding thickness schedule: Does it make more sense to bed the tape in thicker mud, or soupier mud, and then subsequently either go thicker or thinner to finish? I've seen both and was wondering what the intuitive answer here is: start thick and progress thin, or start thin and progress thick?



3) Regarding numbers of coats: Am I right in assuming that a tape coat, plus two follow-up finish coats are the norm?



4) Regarding fanning out a butt joint: I've seen guys on Youtube online do what looks to be almost 3 passes on these, letting them dry and fanning periodically over a few days, how can I start thinking about doing a butt joint? One swipe middle, overlap whip on each side, let it dry. Then same thing on the final coat, obviously fanning out the joint once more?



5) For inside corners: Given that most recommend letting angle side dry before coating the other, is this still something advised for two coats? Meaning, if one were to do one angle at a time, and do 2 coats, that would require at least 4 days of mud dry time, is this right?



Sorry about the lengthy post guys, i'm just wracking my brain over here! Any help would be greatly appreciated!



1. I personally use the green all purpose for everything except the initial coats on an outside corner. I simply add a few tbs of water to the pan and mix for topping coats.



2. The thinner the mud the greater the chance of cracking while drying. Use it straight from the can for bedding and taping.


3. There is no real number. A pro will do it in 3. You might need 5 or 6 to accomplish the desired finish. I personally consider an extra coat or two a lot less work than sanding and for sure it is less wasteful and messy.


4. Bed the tape and then completely cover it with the smoothest coat of mud you can do, Then fan it out on each side as far and as wide as you need to to make it look and feel smooth. For me that is a 6" taping knife and two passes on each side with an 8 or 10" knife.


5. I bed both sides of the corner on a single pass/ day. For the top coat you only get to do one side at a time. Done right the next day you can do both sides to fan it out.


6. Even though you think you made it perfect after the primer it is normal to have a few spots than need a bit more mud.


Submitted by a non pro who probably has 500 gallons to his credit.
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Old 05-13-2019, 10:48 AM   #3
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Re: Looking to Clarify a Few Details About Drywall Mudding


The green lid mud has more adhesive properties than the lightweight mud. It's ok to use it for all coats but imperative for the tape coat [unless using a setting compound]


I always thin my mud a little, even for the tape coat. Thinning helps the mud to flow better but you do need to make sure you don't thin it too much!
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Old 05-13-2019, 11:49 AM   #4
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Re: Looking to Clarify a Few Details About Drywall Mudding


Quote:
Originally Posted by rkearns10 View Post
Hi Everyone,



Hope this finds you all doing well. I'd be grateful for any insight here from someone who can help me wrap my head around a few things. I know that drywall mudding is a highly individualized thing from person-to-person in terms of how things are down and preference, so I'm just looking to gain some general insight:



1) Regarding finish mud: I've read that most pros will utilize green-top (all purpose) for bedding tape and blue-top (?) for finishing/skim coats. The only thing is, I've also read that "Plus 3" and "Dust Control" blue top muds are not popular whatsoever and regarded as crap. These are the only two blue-top muds I've been able to find in my region at the retailers. Is there a mud I can trust for finish/skim that someone would recommend? Will one of these suffice or should I dig for another particular product?
I used the Lite Blue product for my topping coats:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/proform-lit...xoCsN8QAvD_BwE

Quote:
2) Regarding thickness schedule: Does it make more sense to bed the tape in thicker mud, or soupier mud, and then subsequently either go thicker or thinner to finish? I've seen both and was wondering what the intuitive answer here is: start thick and progress thin, or start thin and progress thick?
You will find your perfect thickness quickly enough. Too thick and it'll be tough to push out the mud from the tape...you'll rip the tape or it will be lumpy. Too thin and the mud will fall off the wall easily and the tape won't hold very well before drying. Cracking comes from thick coats. You shouldn't have thick coats under the tape. Bubbles come from not pushing out the air. So you shouldn't have these issues.

Quote:
3) Regarding numbers of coats: Am I right in assuming that a tape coat, plus two follow-up finish coats are the norm?
Depends how good you get...I settled in on the following:

Taper -

1. Embed tape
2. Cover tape/Fill taper
3. Fan out from taper joint
4. Skim coat

Butt-

1. Embed Tape
2. Cover tape/Establish "hump"
3. Widen hump out a knife width on each side
4. Skim Coat

How you accomplish the coats is up to you. I sometimes combined steps 2 and 3 but that resulted in pock marks in some areas but that was fixed with step 4.

Quote:
4) Regarding fanning out a butt joint: I've seen guys on Youtube online do what looks to be almost 3 passes on these, letting them dry and fanning periodically over a few days, how can I start thinking about doing a butt joint? One swipe middle, overlap whip on each side, let it dry. Then same thing on the final coat, obviously fanning out the joint once more?
See previous answer

Quote:
5) For inside corners: Given that most recommend letting angle side dry before coating the other, is this still something advised for two coats? Meaning, if one were to do one angle at a time, and do 2 coats, that would require at least 4 days of mud dry time, is this right?
I used ultraflex corners which are a bit easier to do both sides at once. I did do a couple normal corners...they are a pain by comparison. I could do both sides at once but you have to be careful and they will require a bit of sanding to get looking really nice.
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Old 05-14-2019, 01:40 PM   #5
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Re: Looking to Clarify a Few Details About Drywall Mudding


I never use lightweight mud & i'd love to finish with a product that makes the trade easier. It's just not a quality product.

When pros finish inside corners it's one side at a time, 1 coat per side. The tape in the corners is just over an inch wide when folded, most use a 4 inch knife in corners.
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Old 05-16-2019, 11:06 AM   #6
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Re: Looking to Clarify a Few Details About Drywall Mudding


To all here who responded: Thank you so much for your time and wisdom! I really appreciate the help.
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Old Yesterday, 05:10 PM   #7
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Re: Looking to Clarify a Few Details About Drywall Mudding


Quote:
Originally Posted by rkearns10 View Post
To all here who responded: Thank you so much for your time and wisdom! I really appreciate the help.
As a residential painting/plastering contractor, we really like the dust control stuff.

I skip the green top, and use durabond 20 as a base coat, and then my next coats are with blue top dust control. Its nice stuff, the dust doesnt 'linger' in the air like other compounds, and even ceiling work typically it falls right to the floor.

Now, whatever makes it do that, cant be healthy cause it works too well
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