The [expletive] person who mudded and painted my basement did not feather the perpendicular butt joints and so there are these attractive looking 4' long bumps every 6-8 feet. I have looked around and understand I will have to redo the seams, but here are my questions:
1. do i sand down to tape and start again? should i take even the tape off?
2. the paint he used was that 'no primer' stuff - will i need to prime/recoat the entire wall? (I think it was a Behr product) There is one accent wall of deep red that, of course, shows off the mudding flaws spectacularly.
3. can I feather out seams overtop of the existing paint job?
4. the factory joints are not rounded but they do have ripples (I'm assuming from incorrect pressure when sanding). do i skim coat over the paint or again, should i sand it all off and start again?
If you see a man sanding in a shadowy basement, sanding while looking and talking to you about how good he is and how he doesn't need lighting, he does it all 'by feel', listen to that inner voice that says, "Get him OUT"
Can you sand it out yes, is that the best way depends on just how high these
humps are.
How wide would you guess did he make the seams?
Got any pictures?
Any new drywall should have been primed and painted to coats, not the so called primer in one.
i would just give them a light scuff and feather out all the nasties. the only issues i for see is that you may get some bubbling and you can prime the area where you plan on applying the mud. second if there is no primer under that paint theres a good chance that the paint will peel off in almost sheets. in the future if you bump or scrap the wall or even drag your drywall knife on it that paint will peel like a banana. there is no magic fix for this other then when it occurs peel it till it stops. skim prime paint. you will be reminded of this hack for years to come.
1-Yes sand down to the tape or almost- see #4
2-Yes you will need to prime and re-coat.Although this is bad paint I don't believe it is going to peel easily. Try, but probably just prime and recoat. On red wall try a gray primer.
3-Yes Be careful to remember thin coats, and feather out farther with each one.
4-Not sure what you mean by ripples but if they come out as you sand, good. If they do not, bad, as this probably means the paper tape is wrinkled or has air bubbles in it. If this proves too be the case remove the tape and start over.
1 - is an RO palm sander an okay option?
2 - i have a tinted primer (pink) - would grey be better?
3 - can you give me an estimate as to how wide the final tapering should be? ~12" on each side of the seam, or wider?
4 - sorry i badly explained it. It is not tape bubbles but dents in the mud where he did not sand correctly. Can/ should I skim coat this or sand it out?
By the way, one common mistake with the larger (10" and 12") knives is to press down too hard when doing that 2nd or 3rd wide coat. If you do this, the knife will go concave, and the joint will still be a bump. Use a stiffer knife, or don't press down so hard.
i did a job back in the summer where the homeowners drywalled their basement and then painted the basement with ben moore aura. a few months later they had a sewer back up and 2' of drywall was cut everywhere. the tear out guys took the wall plates off and the people must have put the plates on right after painting because the plates peeled the paint. i could grab on to the paint and easily peel 12"x12" sections of paint exposing the bare drywall.
also i dont think you need to sand the paint and the bumps down. i would just skim it out
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