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Old 04-27-2011, 09:58 AM   #181
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How to fireblock framing


Fireblock from wall to top plate here? It's built out for the pipe to be behind the wall.
*oh, and since it's longer than 10' long, I need to fireblock somewhere in the middle. So 3/4" plywood cut to length, notched for the pipe, and sealed is what I need to do?
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Last edited by nateshirk; 04-27-2011 at 10:08 AM.
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:05 AM   #182
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How to fireblock framing


This other wall is pretty open behind it, and will have access panels. So I need to fireblock the whole top, and in the middle vertically since it's a 13' wall? It's framed for built in shelves, not access panel's THAT big.

Speaking of acces panels. Those need to be sealed up too, right? So no air can get in?

And in the bottom pic, that soffit opening, into the same room as mentioned above, doesn't need fireblocked. Correct?
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Old 04-29-2011, 12:04 PM   #183
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How to fireblock framing


I have a similar set up where I need to build a wall out from the plumbing and also in front of my electrical panel. I would be interest to know if you can treat it like a partition wall and just dry wall on both sides.

Last edited by PatrickG; 05-03-2011 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 08-17-2011, 08:15 AM   #184
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How to fireblock framing


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Originally Posted by Termite View Post
When you have a wall adjacent to a set of stairs, you must prevent the wall studs from opening up into the concealed space under the stair.

Sometimes stairs are framed unconventionally. That is the case with winder stairs or circular (not spiral) stairs. A conventional stringer usually isn't used. Instead, each wedge-shaped tread is supported by horizontal framing that is supported by studs in an adjacent wall. A block is needed in this circumstance. I find it easiest to locate the block in the wall instead of under the stair. A 2x4 block between the studs just under the concealed space under the tread (and often just above the tread, depending on the wall) does the trick.

I'll work on getting a picture of this as soon as I can find one!
The inspector told me that I need to fireblock the enclosed area under stairs. The IRC states, 'Enclosed accessible space under stairs shall have walls and ceilings protected with 1/2-inch drywall on the enclosed side.' I am trying to demystify this seemingly simple statement.

Attached are pictures of the under stairs area that I have walled off. Inspector was vague in telling me exactly where to fireblock. What I gleaned was that I need to
  1. put drywall under the stringers of the curved staircase
  2. along the inside radius wall that extends part way on the left from floor to stringer
I am not sure if he wants me to put drywall on the right wall where the curved stair case touches the studs tangentially (like an arc touching a straight line in a tangent). Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
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How to fireblock framing-great-falls-home-august-17-2011-071409.jpg   How to fireblock framing-great-falls-home-august-17-2011-071346.jpg   How to fireblock framing-great-falls-home-august-17-2011-071333.jpg   How to fireblock framing-great-falls-home-august-17-2011-071300.jpg  

Last edited by DIYHomeTheater; 08-17-2011 at 08:40 AM.
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Old 10-06-2011, 09:17 AM   #185
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How to fireblock framing


Thanks for all of the great info.

If I understand the horizontal soffit requirements correctly, I believe I only need to block the section that is adjacent to the wall. Here is a picture of a soffit that will end at a window opening. The placement of the hvac trunk is inconveniently right in front of the window. Hopefully these pictures will explain.





The window openning will hopefully look like this (from first and third pics):



The soffit butts up against the wall next to the window but opens up to let the light in, then it connects to the wall on the right and will be concealed. Does it look like I only need to fireblock here where I indicated?

Last edited by toobhed; 10-06-2011 at 09:22 AM.
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Old 12-23-2011, 03:04 PM   #186
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How to fireblock framing


AND!!! Don't breath the stuff, (fumes), either!
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Old 12-23-2011, 03:43 PM   #187
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How to fireblock framing


Throughly have enjoyed reading your info on the fireblocking subject! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with all of us. I just wanted to share some info I heard from several Fire Chiefs/Fire Inspecters, I have spoke/delt with on some commercial jobs I have run. Many of them have told me that one of the biggest problems, when called out on a fire, they have is actually finding the actual fire. The problem happens, especially on older buildings, is the structure when built or remodled, was not properly, fire-blocked/fire-stopped/or draft-blocked. This is allowing the smoke to travel freely throughout the structure, costing firefighters more time to locate the actual fire, and allowing the fire to grow larger each second it is not found.
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Old 01-15-2012, 07:14 PM   #188
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How to fireblock framing


First off thanks for this great thread on fireblocking.

Second. I am insulating my daylight basement and am not exactly sure of how to do the fireblocking.

On the left I have interrupted the vertical span of the Foamular insulation with a 2x4 behind my furred out wall and then put in a block in the rim joist area.

On the right the Foamular goes all the way up into the upper level floor through the rim joist area and the furred out wall ends at the joists.

Which method is correct?

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Old 01-15-2012, 08:08 PM   #189
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How to fireblock framing


Quote:
Originally Posted by Termite View Post
I definately encourage those of you working on framing basements, etc to post fireblocking-related pictures or questions on this thread. The more pictures there are, the more people will learn about how to do it right.
Here are two questions about basement fire blocking.

My plan (not formalized) is to glue 2" foam board to the foundation blocks and then build the 2x4 walls against that. At the top where the insulation and the wall top plate meet the floor joist I was going to use 1/2 drywall across the floor joist before installing the foam board and wall studs.

According to what I read here, every 10 leaner feet of wall I have to have fire block. Does that mean I need to cut a channel through my insulation to install this fire block?

What about the bulkheads built around the heating ducts and the engineer lumber span support? How do I fire block that?

Thank you,
Fred
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:17 PM   #190
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How to fireblock framing


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Here are two questions about basement fire blocking.

My plan (not formalized) is to glue 2" foam board to the foundation blocks and then build the 2x4 walls against that. At the top where the insulation and the wall top plate meet the floor joist I was going to use 1/2 drywall across the floor joist before installing the foam board and wall studs.

According to what I read here, every 10 leaner feet of wall I have to have fire block. Does that mean I need to cut a channel through my insulation to install this fire block?

Thank you,
Fred
i am finishing my basement with a similar insulation method you are describing. well, i am technically still in the planning stages but did stop by the inspector's office to get their input on a few items, one being fireblocking. they said if i take the xps all the way up to the ceiling joists, i wouldn't need any additional vertical fireblocking (wall less than 10' high). i'm not totally comfortable with that so i am going to use 1/2" rock on the bottom of the joists to cover the top of the xps and extend it across the wall top plate, like you describe.

as for horizontal blocking, they said i didn't need any of that either. good deal for me since channeling the foam board to insert horizontal blocking compromises the thermal and vapor retardation properties of the insulation system. this can be somewhat overcome with additional caulking but it is not ideal, from an insulation standpoint. i don't plan on doing this for my finish. i figure fire moves easier in the vertical than horizontal direction.

still sort of surprised that i don't really need ANY fireblocking per the inspector...
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:42 PM   #191
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How to fireblock framing


@itsnotrequired and @ACR_SCOUT

I am doing my basement right now as per my diagram right above ACR_SCOUT's post 'continuous Foamular'

My inspector also did not care about fireblocking, especially horizontal. (every 10 feet). I even took in that picture I made of how I was going to do it and they said it's fine.

But they did want me to glue all studs (cedar or pressure treated, i went with cedar) to the XPS.

Depending on if you are going to also put foam board in the spaces between studs? That gives a fire very little or no area to grow in and the glued studs seal off each 16" on center section to limit the oxygen supply I suppose.
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Old 03-27-2012, 06:18 AM   #192
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How to fireblock framing


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Originally Posted by hellonoko View Post
First off thanks for this great thread on fireblocking.

Second. I am insulating my daylight basement and am not exactly sure of how to do the fireblocking.

On the left I have interrupted the vertical span of the Foamular insulation with a 2x4 behind my furred out wall and then put in a block in the rim joist area.

On the right the Foamular goes all the way up into the upper level floor through the rim joist area and the furred out wall ends at the joists.

Which method is correct?

The system on the left is correct. In the right hand plan, fire would melt and burn the the formula R away and enter the cavity between the joists. On the left a fire in the stud cavity would need to burn away the 2x4 fire block before entering the joist cavity. The block would buy significant time by slowing the fire spread.
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:52 PM   #193
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How to fireblock framing


@Maintenance 6

That is what I thought as well along with double studs ever 10' but my inspectors didn't seem to care.

They also said they don't care about what I cover the walls with. I asked if paper mache was acceptable and they said yes.

So I guess its important to ask the inspectors eh.
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Old 03-27-2012, 03:45 PM   #194
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How to fireblock framing


Sounds like the inspector either doesn't know his job (imagine that?!?!?), or doesn't care. I would still do it right. It is your home, property and family you are protecting by doing the right thing. If somebody opens the walls on one of my jobs years down the road at least they won't say that I was a hack. More likely they will curse me for overbuilding. I like it that way. There is even a good chance they won't need to open things up and rebuild, because it will still all be good. You have to ask yourself which way would you like to be perceived?
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:41 AM   #195
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How to fireblock framing


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Originally Posted by DIY_JC View Post
I've thought of putting 3" pvc through the firestop... but honestly, I wouldn't want to cap it. If I cap'd it, then I would have to tear the walls apart again next time I added/changed cables. Obviously, that would defeat the firestop. Slightly better I suppose would be to stuff fiberglass into the pvc, perhaps in addition to fire-caulk around the outside of the pipe.

If you did cap it, do people drill a hole through the cap to allow the wires through?
Interesting thread.

Since I didn't see resolution for this issue, thought I'd respond. I ran
1 1/4" PVC conduit in my walls for future network, video and audio wiring. Given that I've soundproofed the space and have plenty of fire rated putty pads, my plan is to stuff putty pad the conduit at both ends (where the wire exits the conduit into the 4x4 box and in the attic, where the conduit ends and is open). Ensuring a complete seal, of course.

The putty pad is advantageous in that:

1. It's fire rated
2. It's an essential part of air-sealing the space
3. It allows easy access for future wire runs. Just remove putty pad stuffing, run wire and replace putty pad stuffing (same putty pad if useable, new if not).

Putty pads aren't exactly cheap ($5 per 7x7 pad, give or take), I think fire caulking could also work well. Although a bit 'messier' to remove and non-reuseable, it is cheaper and easily obtained and used. All that and air sealing and firestopping.

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