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Old 12-09-2011, 09:30 PM   #16
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Yankee gutter resurfacing options


You'll need a roofer. One that can show you detailed pix of his work going back 15-20 years. Some of the pictures on the bottom of this page from my site are of seams over 10 years old. http://www.albertsroofing.com/Solder%20Details.htm

If you'll notice, all my soldering is done on top of the seam to draw the solder in and sweat the joint.
Can he show you pix like I took in the past year of his old stuff? Here's one titled 15 year old tin. I did the roof in 1990-1991 and this is what the seam looks like today. I'm still friends with clients that go back a long ways I often go back and check on the aging process.
I can also go to many places where others did the work and it's failing within a year.
You need to find a tinner somehow. Have the prospect show his technique and examples.
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:50 AM   #17
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Yankee gutter resurfacing options


I worked for Albert J Steppi roofing & metal work company in Orlando, Florida back in the early 90's.
They had/ran their own metal shop and their foremen at the time was an old school tinner from Chicago with near 40 years experience.

Simon roofing & sheet metal corp, has a few offices in Florida (including the Miami area) and they have a number of experienced tinners working for them.

You can also call metal fabrication shops and ask them if they can recommend a roofer, because a lot of the mom & pop type operations who have both roofing and metal work experience still pay some one else to fabricate their materials for them.
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Old 12-12-2011, 10:30 AM   #18
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Thanks tinner666 and Slyfox. I'll keep this in mind.

They have already messed up my gutter on one side, but I'll let them finish and just be prepared to tear it up in a year or two looking at redoing the metal liner.

I am still puzzled by why they need to put the membrane over the gutter liner, seems redundant unless it was to protect the metal liner. On second thought, may be rain dropping on the metal liner is too loud and they used the membrane to deafen the noise?
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:00 AM   #19
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Yankee gutter resurfacing options


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Originally Posted by miamicuse View Post
Thanks tinner666 and Slyfox. I'll keep this in mind.

They have already messed up my gutter on one side, but I'll let them finish and just be prepared to tear it up in a year or two looking at redoing the metal liner.

I am still puzzled by why they need to put the membrane over the gutter liner, seems redundant unless it was to protect the metal liner. On second thought, may be rain dropping on the metal liner is too loud and they used the membrane to deafen the noise?
I suspect it is because they know how to do membrane, but don't have a clue how to fabricate and install the metal properly. They probably won't do much damage, but they probably won't fix it either.
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Old 12-12-2011, 11:24 AM   #20
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The metal liner was probably leaking before. The company either could not fix it/ redo it, or it was just easier to go over it.

Metal liners like that are not the easiest thing to do in the world nor cheap. We have done a number of built in gutters with EPDM. Most of those are where two metal building eve edges meet. The originals there rely on caulking for the joints. It is cheaper to go over them with EPDM and tapered ISO if a slope is needed then to remove and build tapered pieces then solder it all together.
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Old 12-12-2011, 07:58 PM   #21
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So for the gutter where the bottom is now full of holes from the nail gun, I need to eventually refabricate that section completely right? Or is there a way I can hire someone to cut a rectangular strip to cover the holes and solder the edges?
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:25 PM   #22
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So for the gutter where the bottom is now full of holes from the nail gun, I need to eventually refabricate that section completely right? Or is there a way I can hire someone to cut a rectangular strip to cover the holes and solder the edges?
Those holes do not matter now. You're relying on whatever the current, top surface is. That is always the case. No matter what type roof matterial is being used anywhere, when the first line of defense,(The roof), is gone, it's gone. The underlying material will only hide the leak for a short period.
Don't concern yourself with those holes.
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Old 12-13-2011, 09:45 AM   #23
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The metal liner was probably leaking before. The company either could not fix it/ redo it, or it was just easier to go over it.
That is probably true. I went back up and walked around the gutter, looked at the repair, and found something really interesting.

The gutters seem to be quite nice and smooth along it's length. However, since it is a "wrap around" on the perimeter of the courtyard, it seems the "corners" are the trouble spots I went to look on the underside (had to remove the wood soffit panel from below, and noticed the plywood below showed sign of leaking, it's dry now but at some point in the past they were leaking).

So the corner spots were causing trouble.

See how nice the actual gutter is?



But at the corners where the two sections of gutter meets, the top looked like repair on repair on repair with patches...





So, it seems may be my next step would be to hire someone to come and peel off the corners. Because my guess is however the metal gutter was made to connect at the corner, was either not done right or it has corroded and leaked. I need to have 4 custom corner pieces made and joined into the existing, correct?
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Old 12-13-2011, 11:19 AM   #24
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Yankee gutter resurfacing options


The new work did not go in to the corner? The corner is going to look a little messy anyway. Cold app is not a very clean thing to do and that maybe what you are seeing. I would just keep an eye on the corner and watch for leaking. I question the drains also. Looks like the drops were just caulked in place. I wouldn't expect that to last very long.
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Old 01-06-2012, 08:20 AM   #25
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wow.... I am no expert, but thats not how I would have done any of that!!!

a couple of things that I see.
1. were the tiles come together on the roof itself, there does not appear to be much of a valley. I notice that leaves are collecting there. they will dam up the water. I would suggest that the tiles be cut back a couple of inches and a real metal valley pan be make and installed.

2. the brown flashing that is comming from the exterior wall needs to be U shaped and extend completely over the edge of the wall. You can see that the bend in the roofing material is already starting to crack at this edge. Metal covering it will help protect the roofing and will shed water better.

3. The metal downspout collars need to be under the roofing??? I cant see how they will work being placed above the roofing surface...

Personally, I would have a tinsmith come out and do the entire thing in copper. You will never have to do it again and it will be a selling point for the home. or you could use fiberglass and make the entire thing one big bathtube like system. Thats what I did on my flat roof and its great!!! Messing and stinky installing, but the finished product is great!!!!!!!!!

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