will this minor damage cause leaking?

Eric8

I cleared some gutters on a lady's roof. Had to clamber from tier to tier, and may have damaged some shingles. Anyway there is some minor damage, wherever it came from, which I photographed. I am hoping someone knowledgeable has an opinion as to whether it will cause leaking. You can see my finger or thumb there as a size reference. Many, many thanks.

joecaption

Your not joking?
It's just going to rot out the fashia, soffit and some of the roof sheathing.
Shingle needs to be replaced.

Eric8

Thank you. It's going to rain right tonight. Is there something that ought to be done immediately?

Windows on Wash

Seal it up in the mean time and tell her to have those shingles replaced.

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Grumpy

Yes that will cause damage. Replace the missing shingle. One night won't hurt.

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The information found in this post is not to be considered legal advice. All information should be considered relative, not specific. Never attempt any repairs you are not comfortable with. Always maintain safety! The author of this post takes no responsibility for any losses that occur. Use at your own risk.

Roofmaster417

Replace the shingle.And tell the homeowner to replace that roof slope.If the rest of the slope looks like that area in the pic its a matter of time before tabs will start blowing off and widespread deterioration will occur.

From the look of the area your standing on the customer is doing section by section.Time to do another section.

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joecaption

There also missing a drip cap.

Grumpy

That's a gable correct? Joe, I almost never see drip edge on gables here in Chicago. It's simply not done. Infact I think we do a great job, but the only time we install drip edge on the gable is when there is one existing, less than a job a year, or if we are doing a wood over wood job such as when there is spaced decking, to hide the plywood edge. Normally we will simply install a starter at the edge of the roof, that the NRCA would call a bleeder course. Also in doing the bleeder course, we get a free upgraded wind warranty from CertainTeed. I never see wind driven rain issues at rakes and gables, I guess that's why it's not done in our area.

However the overhang is incorrect, and the shingle should not be flush with the fascia.

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Sometimes the savings that comes from doing it yourself can be blown away with one mistake.

The information found in this post is not to be considered legal advice. All information should be considered relative, not specific. Never attempt any repairs you are not comfortable with. Always maintain safety! The author of this post takes no responsibility for any losses that occur. Use at your own risk.

Roofmaster417

I have been working in the St. Louis area since August and have yet to do one with drip edge.It is an upgrade option here in which nobody finds useful.(Homeowners)

I am still doing work in Springfield and Joplin and everything I do there has drip 360*.And It has been that way for about 6 years.

I also use starter courses 360*.With drip edge I put 1/2" over the rake and 1" in the gutters and without I go 1" on the rake and 1-1/2" in the gutters.

I like using drip edge since I feel it gives perimeter strength.And I feel it looks better against the fascia on the rakes.

Back to the post though it seems like one of the shingles that has damage extends past the rake while the shingle above it is flush.

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Eric8

Just to update, I mentioned on the other thread that I did go back and give the stuff a temporary fix with some silicone goop. Since we were set to get 1.5 inches of rain and all. Which we did.

Most of this roof has the shingles hanging out about 3/4 inch, unsupported. On the sides anyway. But much of the overhang has been crushed/bent down almost 90 degrees, in a seemingly-unintended way. A little of that was probably done by me, but most of it couldn't have been done by me. (Because I only clambered from tier to tier in two particular spots.)

Not certain, but I think the only reason you see the shingles mostly flush in my pix, is because the overhang has gotten bent down in this way -- and has, in this particular spot, eventually come clean off.

Grumpy

3/4" unsupported is fine in my area. If we were to install drip edge, we would install 3/4" unsupported past the drip. I know in some areas (FL) they want the shingles flush with the drip and sealed with mastic to the drip. But 3/4" unsupported would be minimum manufacturer specification.

Anything over 1" unsupported will tend to bend down over the edge from gravity and heat after a few years.

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Sometimes the savings that comes from doing it yourself can be blown away with one mistake.

The information found in this post is not to be considered legal advice. All information should be considered relative, not specific. Never attempt any repairs you are not comfortable with. Always maintain safety! The author of this post takes no responsibility for any losses that occur. Use at your own risk.