Where Roof meets Balcony

tomdor · 07-27-2012, 05:52 PM

Hi everyone,

I have an old house (1924) with a balcony over living space and a situation where a hip from the roof terminates at the balcony. It has been leaking since we bought the house 1 year ago, and long before that i'm sure, so I creatively tarped it for the winter. Now that we've started our roofing project, I was wondering if anyone had any ideas on what to do at the point where the roof meets the balcony. When we got the house the 3tab roof was leaking all over the place especially the no-slope balcony. (it does slope away about 1/4in per foot).

I considered building in a flush-with-the-balcony drain channel and having that act as the gutter for the roof. I'm not sure this is right at all though.

Also, anyone have any recommendations for balcony surface? It's torch down now and is really not meant to be walked on as I understand. EPDM? Maybe with sleepers and a deck over it?

Thanks
Tom

vandel777 · 07-27-2012, 06:02 PM

if i was going to take a shot of this i would say install a drain on the flat surfaces, install counter flashing up those walls on the sloped roof, maybe even install some counter flashing up the balcony walls for the section that gets torched up the wall

Edit, your probably going to have to torch up onto the shingled roof about 2-3 feet then start your first course at the bottom like usual, also step flash the walls

tinner666 · 07-27-2012, 10:08 PM

What is that wall made of? You need to demo about 6" up all the way around. Where the shingles are, on the balcony, etc. Pull that door casing too.
All flashing, and the new flat roof have to go behind and up those walls.

vandel777 · 07-27-2012, 10:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tinner666

What is that wall made of? You need to demo about 6" up all the way around. Where the shingles are, on the balcony, etc. Pull that door casing too.
All flashing, and the new flat roof have to go behind and up those walls.

couldnt you just use a diamond blade on a angle grinder and mark a line up along the walls about 6in up then grind it out, after its grinded out clean the area of dust ect.. blow it out or use the end of a air hose if you got that up with you for a clean surfaces. once its clear you can insert your counter flashing, create or buy some wedges to hold your flashing firmly in place then apply polyurethane caulking in the slot you grinded out in the wall, this polyurethane caulking is very good stuff and will last 50years if applied to a clean surface it shouldn't fail

tinner666 · 07-28-2012, 07:15 AM

Vandel is new but seems to know what's going on too. What is the wall made of? Stucco? Wood? SOme close-ups and different angles would be nice.

joecaption · 07-28-2012, 07:40 AM

No gutters, a door threshold even with the decking, a roof dumping water onto a flat deck, no flashing run up behind the wall, oh boy.
All building 101 mistakes.

The door needed at least a sill seal under it or your going to have subfloor damage. The wall also needs flashing on the 2, sides of the door.

Rule # 1 with any deck is the decking, stoop or porch should have been a min. of 4" to any deck surface from the threshold. To late now but it needs to be delt with before more damage happens.

I'd make the cuts as suggested, but use 1 X 6 vinyl lumber with z moulding above it to cover up the needed flashing.

**kwikfishron** · 07-28-2012, 07:57 AM

I'd get rid of the hip all together.

That detail will always be a problem especially with the door where it is.

tomdor · 07-28-2012, 11:10 AM

tinner666 - the wall is old stucco 3/4 -1" thick. For the endwall and sidewall flashing on the roof, I've been cutting a kerf with a diamond blade like vandel777 said.

joecaptain - good eye with the no gutter. I took the really nice plastic gutters off to repair the fascia and threw them in the trash. I'll be getting new gutters soon.

kwikfishron: I like the idea of getting rid of the hip

Some more pictures of the stucco / roof on the other side where I did the kerf and flashing