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Old 03-20-2012, 07:55 AM   #16
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What to do with shingle nail ends when sistering rafters


just hold the doubler down the thickness of some added plywood strips between the nails in the way, you will be fastening the sisters to code....yet will still have full bearing, and not effect the nails. Simply add the same ply to the existing rafter bottom for the rake wall plate to support fully.


That's just plain silly. Then every other rafter in plane would have to be furred if the ceiling is to be finished. Most answering here are not looking at the big picture. The answer has already been given. Clip the nails to get the sisters in. Those clipped nails will end up getting pulled when the dormer is framed. The dormer walls will be over the sistered rafters or near enough that the nails in question will have to be pulled to flash. Even if they weren't, only one nail per shingle would be affected. Carry on.

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Old 03-20-2012, 11:40 AM   #17
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What to do with shingle nail ends when sistering rafters


as stated already, clipping is probably easiest. If you have plywood decking, that will help the nail remain tight after the clip. If its OSB though, all bets are off due to its inferior nail holding properties. another option is to locate where the nails will contact the new sistered rafter and drill a small hole so as to allow the nail some clearance. its only 2 sisters that you are doing so it shouldnt be too many to drill.
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:42 PM   #18
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What to do with shingle nail ends when sistering rafters


Cutting the sister to the exact same length/configuration with the ridge/seat cuts and installing it diagonally with only 22-1/2” or less- 14-1/2” is very difficult (with or without nails in the way…). I would cut it exact, then, level cut the seat cut by 1-1/2” shorter. When swinging the bottom of rafter over to double- with the top where it belongs, every little bit helps. Install the rafter; lift it up on a 2x4 spacer (1-1/2”) on the plate, after cutting only the few nails in the way. As you said your location is not FL but another sunny/tropical area? You may want/need the nails protruding if in a Gulf Coast high wind area. Where are you located?


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Old 03-21-2012, 02:00 AM   #19
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What to do with shingle nail ends when sistering rafters


Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Cutting the sister to the exact same length/configuration with the ridge/seat cuts and installing it diagonally with only 22-1/2” or less- 14-1/2” is very difficult (with or without nails in the way…). I would cut it exact, then, level cut the seat cut by 1-1/2” shorter. When swinging the bottom of rafter over to double- with the top where it belongs, every little bit helps. Install the rafter; lift it up on a 2x4 spacer (1-1/2”) on the plate, after cutting only the few nails in the way. As you said your location is not FL but another sunny/tropical area? You may want/need the nails protruding if in a Gulf Coast high wind area. Where are you located?


Gary
Dead on, looks like you have had to sister a rafter also.
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Old 03-21-2012, 03:27 AM   #20
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What to do with shingle nail ends when sistering rafters


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Originally Posted by tinner666 View Post
Clip them off flush. The parts in the air aren't holding anything.
Exactly…I’d whip out the Hoof Clippers and be done with it.

In this case a Sawzall is to aggressive imo.
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Old 03-21-2012, 08:19 AM   #21
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What to do with shingle nail ends when sistering rafters


Some of you are missing the boat here. Quote--"I need to sister a couple of rafters in (full length sisters) to support new dormers. Sisters were spec'd by engineer."

The dormer framing will sit ON the sistered rafters.

Now, to the OP; Once you determine the exact outside position of the framing, figure out the thickness of your outer layers, insulation, siding, etc. Hold a line there too. Don't snap a line there! This should give you the range of area where all the nails now need to be removed, and 6" more to the outside of that line.
At the line marking the dormer framing, pop a line 1/2" from the framing line. This is where the shingles need to be cut off. Remove all shingles between these lines you marked on both sides of the dormer location. Now, you can put your framing directly to the roof deck, AND have some play to slide in your step flashing.
Call me if you need any further help/clarification.
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Old 03-21-2012, 12:00 PM   #22
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What to do with shingle nail ends when sistering rafters


Sigh..... read the last part of post #7...... now we are running in circles, "Great minds think alike" though! The other problem is getting the rafter in place without stopping because of protruding nails (virtually no wiggle-room- as a carpenter would know)---- without cutting them IF in a high wind area. Which I think "jcrck corn" is in from reading some of his earlier posts last year. Are you listening, jcc?

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Old 03-21-2012, 01:49 PM   #23
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What to do with shingle nail ends when sistering rafters


True enough GBR!
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Old 03-24-2012, 09:46 AM   #24
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What to do with shingle nail ends when sistering rafters


Thanks, this is what I did. I like to work alone and they are 26 ft FG 2x8's....approx 60 pounds with a CG 13 feet away from me at all times, lol. but just taking my time and using rigging pulley and its all going well.

I actually have about a 4" HAP, and deep, well built soffits so I am able to get away with cutting the seat about 1/2" shorter than exact...i can slide the 2x8 into the soffit, then climb the ladder and pull it up and twist into place.

I am getting the ridges perfect. and have that 1/2 gap at the seat. I will shim that up and hurricane tie it...but I will also be building a double 2x4 triangle box that will drop down from the bottom edge of the rafters about 1ft up from the seat, down to a steel beam (then back to the end of the rafters on the seat, to complete the triangle for added rigidity, prevent movement). So the top plate isnt going to carry much load anyway...it will be picked up by the kneewall and the steel beam (all engineered).

its to support new dormers. I ended up cutting the nail shank on about 20 nails...not worried at all (and yes, hurricane area)...most of where I cut will be stripped when the exterior dormer walls go up anway...and i'm 50/50 odds for a new roof on that side if the shingle match isnt good enough.

I have 5 more to go, so I might try your way (just saw your post) to make it even easier.

ohh, and with the steep pitch I will be able to install hurricane ties when finished.

at the top i already have collar ties (that happen to be on the sides opposite sides i'm sistering, yah! one thing i dont have to move!), and plan to also run the new ceiling joists full lenth rafter to rafter on the other side of the house (dead space) so they will function as ties about mid span, along with the new/old floor joists (2x6, with sistered 2x12) tieing them at the bottom. I think a hurricane will take the rest of the house before it takes this part! lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Cutting the sister to the exact same length/configuration with the ridge/seat cuts and installing it diagonally with only 22-1/2” or less- 14-1/2” is very difficult (with or without nails in the way…). I would cut it exact, then, level cut the seat cut by 1-1/2” shorter. When swinging the bottom of rafter over to double- with the top where it belongs, every little bit helps. Install the rafter; lift it up on a 2x4 spacer (1-1/2”) on the plate, after cutting only the few nails in the way. As you said your location is not FL but another sunny/tropical area? You may want/need the nails protruding if in a Gulf Coast high wind area. Where are you located?


Gary

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Old 03-24-2012, 09:50 AM   #25
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What to do with shingle nail ends when sistering rafters


yep, you got it! i may have a single nail here or there that i cut outside of where the new rafters are but no biggie. but yes, dormer walls will sit over where I'm cutting most of the nails.

BTW to all....sawzall with long metal cutting blade is by far the way to go...plenty of room to get flex to make a flush cut, no damage to decking. takes probably less than 10 seconds per cut, no effort at all.


Quote:
Originally Posted by tinner666 View Post
Some of you are missing the boat here. Quote--"I need to sister a couple of rafters in (full length sisters) to support new dormers. Sisters were spec'd by engineer."

The dormer framing will sit ON the sistered rafters.

Now, to the OP; Once you determine the exact outside position of the framing, figure out the thickness of your outer layers, insulation, siding, etc. Hold a line there too. Don't snap a line there! This should give you the range of area where all the nails now need to be removed, and 6" more to the outside of that line.
At the line marking the dormer framing, pop a line 1/2" from the framing line. This is where the shingles need to be cut off. Remove all shingles between these lines you marked on both sides of the dormer location. Now, you can put your framing directly to the roof deck, AND have some play to slide in your step flashing.
Call me if you need any further help/clarification.
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:02 AM   #26
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What to do with shingle nail ends when sistering rafters


btw...for those interested....the engineer spec'd 2 w8x21 beams (24ft span).

One carries half the floor load, about 20x24 tributary. the other one will carry 1/4 the floor load and the dormers. (which aren't huge, about 4'8 wide between the new rafters, and 8 foot walls with 2'4" additional ceiling height with the vaulted dormer rafters (on same 12/12 pitch).

the w8x21's seem up to the task, i believe there is quite a safety factor there.

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