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Old 03-17-2012, 09:23 PM   #46
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Wet Deck Roof


I can't be more grateful for your blunt assessment of this roof.

The engineer came out, and I am awaiting his formal report. He agrees the roof is improperly attached to the house and that you can't attach a roof with a 14 ft span in that manner. I had him concentrate on the structure because at that point that was the major source of disagreement. Contractor already acknowledged material and flashing issues.

Contractor has agreed to redo the roof. He noted he had talked with some engineers he knew as well, and was told that attachment was not correct-- would have been nice if he did so before I was pushed to hire the engineer.

The question is now how will it be redone. He is awaiting the formal report and there will be a recommendation in there. He wants to keep it a flat roof and I don't, as it was never supposed to be a flat roof to begin with. So once we get the report we can go from there, and hopefully it won't become yet another battle. However he will use a different sub.

It still amazes me, with all that I know now, that it passed inspection--as it is not to code.

So there you have it...for now. It's a good turn of events, because the water issue is getting worse with each rain.

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Old 03-18-2012, 12:29 PM   #47
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Meeting code just means it meets min. code.
Cracks me up this this guy is still trying to say your roof is Murfys Law and it should have worked.
It looks like every DIY roof I've ever seen that's leaking from day one.
I've had to work on dozens of these shed style roofs before and every single one of them leak when built the way yours is.
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Old 03-18-2012, 08:55 PM   #48
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He definitely is a piece of work... its been a very long, rough haul with him...

It doesn't meet code.. code doesn't allow the use of metal panel roofing on a 1/4-12 slope.. without getting into the structural part of it.. that should have been flagged... that's the most obvious..

Hopefully it will all get properly resolved and soon.. without much fighting.. and the project can come to its long overdue conclusion...
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Old 03-19-2012, 11:00 AM   #49
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If not see if you can get on the Holmes on Homes show.
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Old 03-19-2012, 07:03 PM   #50
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I wouldn't call 'rubber' an upgrade. If you do go with it, INSIST on no lesser spec than .060 Reinforced EPDM. Metal with hidden fasteners would be best of all worlds, after the thing gets rebuilt.
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:29 PM   #51
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What a mess… Your contractor is an Idiot. Fire and sue him. Then find someone competent to fix this very simple job.

If Judge Judy gets the case let us know, I want to watch.
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Old 04-01-2012, 11:06 AM   #52
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Yes it is a mess, and this roof is just a part of it. Sad thing, is he really is not an idiot. He just chooses to act like one at times. It's a very long and complicated saga.

Pretty much he has decided on the rebuild method, which is also a method put forth by the engineer. I posted this below.

So we are to the questions of pitch, material, and sheathing. Would the 3/12 be ideal no matter what, or would 2/12 suffice?

Based on everything here, the existing classic rib is junk and must go no matter what. I've learned that much from this thread .

Originally it was supposed to be the same asphalt shingle that is on the house now. Would that be a bad thing?

He's real fond of the rubber roof..I'm not unless it proves to be the best solution. In that case, I would relent and go rubber.

Then of course back to metal and standing seam. I'm not sure how the cost compares to the above options. However, it seems to be the way to go with metal, if I am not mistaken.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

Here is the method:

One method to reduce the load on the end of the overhang would be to extend the deck roof rafters such
that they bear directly on the back wall of the house between the roof trusses. This would require removal
of the fascia and trimming the roof sheathing to allow clearance for the rafters. If a greater pitch is
desired for the deck roof a 2x4 knee wall with studs bearing on top of the back wall (between the roof
trusses) may be installed to support the rafters. Alternatively, a 2x6 bearing plate could be installed to lie
flat on top of the roof sheathing directly above the truss bearing on the back wall. Solid blocking installed
between the roof deck and the top plate would serve to transfer loads to the back wall of the house. The
bearing plate can be attached through the sheathing to the top of the trusses using 1/4 in. diameter
Simpson SDS screws (or equivalent).

2x6 SYP #2 spaced approximately 16 in. on center may be used for rafter spans up to 15 ft. and 2x8 SYP
#2 spaced approximately 16 in. on center should be used for spans between 15 ft. and 19 ft. We
recommend that metal hangers (Simpson HUS26- 2 or equivalent) be installed between the header located
at the back of the fireplace chase and the doubled rafters located on either side of the chase.

Thanks as always for the guidance.
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Old 04-24-2012, 09:33 PM   #53
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I thought I would post an update of the new roof..
Unfortunately at this point it is just a new roof still in progress...

The engineers recommendations were pretty much mirrored, and the roof is at 2.5/12 with the asphalt shingles. It really is nice to have the extra height in the future screen room if it ever gets finished. He did go back with the T1-11, but this time, its on the underside of OSB. Different guys framing, different roofer and flasher this time around.

Of course, can't have the positive without the major negatives--unfortunately. He decided to do the work and the roof demo/cutting on a day where there was 100 percent chance of thunderstorms. And the rain came. He did tarp it, but it wasn't properly tarped and protected, so the interior of the house in that area where it meets the deck was inundated with water. Lots of damage. That whole area had to be gutted, and now has to be rebuilt. In fact the water spread into the adjoining rooms, damaging the wood flooring in those rooms as well.

They did go on to finish the roof, from what I saw of it, it looked ok to me.
Definitely much better than the first roof. I was allowing myself to be hopeful that the water issues were over. NOT!

We had a rain over the weekend. Water pouring down the chimney on the outside of the house, actually moreso than ever before. And there was water on the inside of the house as well in the wall and on the floor on both sides of the fireplace. I guess it was a blessing in disguise that the wall was demoed and the flooring was gone, or it might not have been readily seen, and the issue on the interior would have been hidden.
For all I know, it was doing it with roof 1 as well, since there was water on the exterior around the chimney then too.

So he and yet another roofer will be troubleshooting on Saturday. Hopefully that will be the charm, because the interior damage can not be fixed until the issue is found and properly resolved. There you have it.

I also have posted some of the in process photos.
Attached Thumbnails
Wet Deck Roof-damage.jpg   Wet Deck Roof-fullview.jpg   Wet Deck Roof-insideview.jpg   Wet Deck Roof-ipside.jpg   Wet Deck Roof-iptop.jpg  

Wet Deck Roof-iptop2.jpg  
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Old 04-24-2012, 10:00 PM   #54
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If that's a dip I see where the new and old decking join in the last pic, the leaks are going to get much worse. I don't see any metal showing on the back corners of the chimney. The metal MUST exit the siding there and toss the water away from the chimney. Tight, neat very close fits there look good, but rely solely on caulk and will deteriorate.
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Old 04-24-2012, 11:45 PM   #55
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Add to that the vinyl "j" appears to sit right on the roof shingles, to transfer the heat and distort, Figs. 34, 43: http://www.vinylsiding.org/PUBLICATI...al_English.pdf

It appears they just cut the vinyl siding at the chimney side wall...... I wonder if they metal step-flashed it or the shed-end wall/roof.

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Old 04-25-2012, 12:00 AM   #56
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This speaks volumes about the folks your dealing with.

Hes already under the gun, you would think he would get his shiat together, get this done to your liking and be done with it. It appears they have created more issues and incurred more costs. The new pics bring more Q's to the table as already indicated by others.

hang in there, there is light someplace at the end of this tunnel.
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Old 04-25-2012, 12:22 AM   #57
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I see no J moulding on the sides of the chimmney.
J moulding under fashia sticks out past it so water can get in behind it.
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Old 04-25-2012, 01:29 AM   #58
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Thank you so much for the input and valuable information. It will definitely be discussed when I see him tomorrow. Hopefully he can get it resolved sooner rather than later, for both of our sakes. So close and yet so far.

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Old 05-25-2012, 11:36 PM   #59
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Well, it seems I am finally roof leak free....
After one more nightmarish heavy rain episode-- luckily the interior wall was already gutted from their damage-- he finally got it fixed.
Made it through some vigorous water testing, and a couple of more heavy rains, and the water stayed outside where it belongs...
And that area of the house is now finally being able to be repaired.
What an adventure.
When I get the final roof pics, I will post the final result.

As always, thanks!!
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Old 05-26-2012, 01:09 AM   #60
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Good to hear.

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