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Old 02-26-2012, 07:05 PM   #16
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It would be a good idea for them to come back and tear that off, run rafters up into the roof, re-tie in the chimney, use a roof decking material, a standing seam roof, properly tied in, etc. All this will require all the siding to be removed from the chimney so it can be redone with the tie-in so the leaks will quit. The metal material on there now is OK for chicken coops and the like in which small, persistant leaks aren't an issue.
I can't imagine any lesser patch that will work. That's what I'd do.

I can't imagine them charging again to do it correctly. They had to know that was wrong from the get-go.

Is does appear the the deck rafters were attached at the fascia which is also wrong. Sorry.

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Old 02-26-2012, 08:00 PM   #17
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It would be a good idea for them to come back and tear that off, run rafters up into the roof, re-tie in the chimney, use a roof decking material, a standing seam roof, properly tied in, etc. All this will require all the siding to be removed from the chimney so it can be redone with the tie-in so the leaks will quit. The metal material on there now is OK for chicken coops and the like in which small, persistant leaks aren't an issue.
I can't imagine any lesser patch that will work. That's what I'd do.

I can't imagine them charging again to do it correctly. They had to know that was wrong from the get-go.

Is does appear the the deck rafters were attached at the fascia which is also wrong. Sorry.
+1 on all accounts.

This is a full tear off and gut. Sorry for the bad news.

Metal is acceptable but only mechanically seamed standing seam (metal of that look variety) would work at that pitch.
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:48 PM   #18
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I have a hard time believing that is a 2/12. Looks 1/12 at very best if that. What do you guys see? Easy to check that steelgoddess. Measure from the top of the handrail to the bottom of the rafter at the edge of the deck and again at the house. What is the depth of that deck? 12 feet? If it' a 2/12 then the difference between the height should be 2 feet. Looks more like 6" to me. That is why I suggested a membrane rather than metal. Yes it can be done and we do it all the time. But that's just it, we do it all the time so we know the do's and don'ts involved. Doesn't sound like your contractor does. It looks like random screws holding it down and absolutely no trim whatsoever. He just slapped up some panels and screwed them down randomly.

As far as the roofing on there, yes classic is the same as rolled rib. Just because the mfr says it's good down to 2/12 don't believe it.

As a side-note Frank, that valley coming into the left side of the roof will make raising the pitch a bit of a pain.

Edit: Looking at the header over the pass-through to the deck, it looks to be at least 3' wide yet the rise of the rafters above it seems to only rise about an inch or so the whole width. I'm thinking 1/2" per foot rise maximum.

Last edited by OldNBroken; 02-26-2012 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:00 PM   #19
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I see 1/12 or less too, OB. I forgot to mention the valley. I saw it and included it in my calculations. I also saw the other things you mentioned, I just hated to keep saying bad things.
I'm 98% sure that's 2 layers of shingles on there. I could be wrong, but that wavy roof, and 3rd. row hump makes me a believer.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:04 PM   #20
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BTW, I also saw the leaking pipe collar and leaky vent job.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:24 PM   #21
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BTW, I also saw the leaking pipe collar and leaky vent job.
showoff
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:59 PM   #22
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Oy!
The deck is 14 x 14.

Leaky pipe collar, valve?

The mfg of classic rib and 95 percent of sites I have visited today call for 3/12. Lap sealant ??? mentioned with less.

This gets worse by the minute, doesn't it? But better now than later. He sees nothing wrong with it.

I will measure the pitch in daylight.

Thanks again. I do really appreciate it.

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Old 02-27-2012, 12:01 AM   #23
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Oy!
The deck is 14 x 14.

Leaky pipe collar, valve?

The mfg of classic rib and 95 percent of sites I have visited today call for 3/12. Lap sealant ??? mentioned with less.

This gets worse by the minute, doesn't it? But better now than later. He sees nothing wrong with it.

I will measure the pitch in daylight.

Thanks again. I do really appreciate it.

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I mean vent. Have plumbing on the mind too.

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Old 02-27-2012, 12:56 AM   #24
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Should have been done more like this roof.
http://images.search.yahoo.com/image...mb=cpCLpHoH11V
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Old 02-27-2012, 05:37 AM   #25
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Sorry for the confusion. The vents in the shingle roof were done wrong.
The larger vent to the left should have been installed like this. http://www.albertsroofing.com/Power%...stallation.htm

The collar to the right should have been done like this.

SOmebody else already mentioned the chimney. The lowest corner of it appears to be completely closed off and catching water. The upper corners don't show any flashing which is supposed to extend pastt he corners to direct the water away from the chimney is a manner similar to how this one is done. This one had to also allow for a downspout the water had to clear. http://www.albertsroofing.com/Blind%...%20Valleys.htm
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Old 02-27-2012, 07:26 PM   #26
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First, thank you again for all of the pictures, instructions, explanations and attempts to help me understand. I very much appreciate all the time you have taken to do so.

We did our attempt at slope measurement today. I had an extra set of eyes and hands with me to make sure.

I have attached a couple of photos of our beginning and end points.

Beginning at the outer rafter where the rafter met the soffit? <the white thing this is all attached to>, and going to the end of the hand rail. That is a rough measurement of about 160".

The difference in the two spots from the bottom of the rafter to the top of the
handrail was approximately 3". It was done a couple of times.

I bought one of those pitch gauges. It didn't seem to register any noticeable pitch.

Nothing even close to 24".
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Wet Deck Roof-beginningpoint.jpg   Wet Deck Roof-endingpoint.jpg  

Last edited by steelgoddess; 02-27-2012 at 07:31 PM. Reason: add pics
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Old 02-28-2012, 01:03 AM   #27
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So by your measurements you have less than 1/4" rise per foot. Even roofs that are intended to be flat try to achieve 1/4" minimum. Whoever told you it was a 2/12 needs to go back to flipping burgers. The most expensive standing seam metal roofing system we install is only good down to 1/2" per foot.

IF the structure itself is sound (and there are concerns there) you absolutely need to have a low-slope roofing system of some kind installed properly or your problems will only get worse.

If you do anything about it make sure you also add 1/2" cdx over the t-111 since t-111 is not a structural panel.

Best of luck
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:44 PM   #28
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I am meeting with the contractor tomorrow.

I am reviewing all of what has been said here too, in preparation.

I do have one question--one thing <for now> that I don't quite understand--

how attaching the ledger board to the faschia board was wrong , and the ledger just being attached to the rafter tail is wrong.

For my knowledge what makes this wrong. Is it a pitch thing? A structural strength thing?

Thanks again!
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Old 02-28-2012, 02:04 PM   #29
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Nailing into the end grain of a piece of any wood has almost 0 fastner holding power, the tails are going to want to split along there length with any downward force, two pieces of wood just butted together even if glued and nailed them will not hold them together,
In most cases the old fasia was no more then a 1X piece of pine, just pounding a large gauge nail in it can split it.
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Old 02-29-2012, 10:05 AM   #30
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Nailing into the end grain of a piece of any wood has almost 0 fastner holding power, the tails are going to want to split along there length with any downward force, two pieces of wood just butted together even if glued and nailed them will not hold them together,
In most cases the old fasia was no more then a 1X piece of pine, just pounding a large gauge nail in it can split it.
+1

Not only did he attach them wrong but they are attached to the wrong locations.

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