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steelgoddess 02-24-2012 09:35 PM

Wet Deck Roof
1 Attachment(s)
I have been having a screened deck built. Once the roof was put on, its had a variety of water issues, and some areas of flashing that have needed correcting. Its a metal roof over T-111. Pitch is 12/2. Even after the flashing fix and add, there is still a water issue. There is no dripping water I can see . However the underside of the roof is wet to the touch in areas. I have attached a picture of one of the more prominent areas this happens<not sure why its posting upside down>. This is the part closest to the house. To me it means water is getting under the metal and soaking through the T1-111. There are also some wet areas where the joists meet the T1-111. Its also not an immediate event. It can be dry right after a rain, but wet two hours later.

Any possible causes or solutions?

Before they come back and give it yet another whirl, I would like to have some ideas in my head. Its been going on since mid December and its getting rather old.


tinner666 02-24-2012 10:02 PM

Sorry for the delay. I was dizzy after standing on my head for 2 minutes. Been 50 years since I did that!

We need pictures of the roof.

tinner666 02-24-2012 10:09 PM

As a side note, I doubt T-111 is considered strcturally sound for a roof deck. It should have been 3/4" CDX if I'm not mistaken.

joecaption 02-24-2012 10:32 PM

A picture outside would be nice.
Are you saying they used T111 for the roof decking?
I hate to see it but it should have been one the walls not the roof.
Even still it has nothing to do with the roof leaking.
Some pictures outside may shed some light.

tinner666 02-25-2012 05:43 AM

[quote=joecaption;862527]A picture outside would be nice.
Are you saying they used T111 for the roof decking?

"Its a metal roof over T-111." That's what she said. You're looking at the underside of the roof deck, not the ceiling in the picture. Deflection of it alone could conceivably cause issues in that scenario, imho.
I doubt the roof material is on right.

Windows on Wash 02-25-2012 08:49 AM


Originally Posted by joecaption (Post 862527)
A picture outside would be nice.
Are you saying they used T111 for the roof decking?

"Its a metal roof over T-111." That's what she said. You're looking at the underside of the roof deck, not the ceiling in the picture. Deflection of it alone could conceivably cause issues in that scenario, imho.
I doubt the roof material is on right.


If the contractor put T-111 on as a roof deck, I would have to think they did a bunch of other stuff incorrectly too.

If they put the T-111 down as a interior finish surface and then put down plywood, that is another story but it does not sound like that.

Any pictures of the roof deck would be helpful in this application as Joe mentioned too.

OldNBroken 02-25-2012 09:36 AM

1 Attachment(s)
I've used T-111 like that in the past for aesthetics, but sheeted over it with cdx. Don't know if it's got additional sheeting over or not so not going to assume either way.

Can't tell much by the picture but based on what you said and what I see I would really like to see pictures of the tie-in. If it's a passive leak it can take the longest time to show up underneath, depending on how far it has to travel. The pitch looks better than many we see having problems which is why I would suspect the tie-in.

Need more pics. So far I don't see anything in that pic that would suggest shoddy workmanship. Actually looks pretty clean.

joecaption 02-25-2012 10:08 AM

I took another look at that picture, is that a door on the right and a window on the left?
Looks like they just attached the ledger board to the fashia board instead of running the rafters up on to the old roof or at least through so they would rest on the top plate of the outside wall.
If the ledger is just attached to the rafter tails, that's a really big no no.

steelgoddess 02-25-2012 07:47 PM

6 Attachment(s)
Thank you so much for the replies..

Its the t1-11, a black tyvek like covering and the metal. Our codes require 5/8 thick for roof sheathing, from what I read today.

Yes, if you are looking at the house, there is a door on the left and window on the right.

I have tried taking the very best pictures that I could, as I don't do heights well and I am not totally sure which views would be the most beneficial. So if you need another angle or view, I will be happy to try again. I think I even got the pictures right side up this time. Sorry about the water mark, long story.

A few more pics will follow in the next post.

steelgoddess 02-25-2012 07:49 PM

2 Attachment(s)
A couple of more from inside the deck.
Thanks again!

Windows on Wash 02-26-2012 07:54 AM

That type of roof metal is not rated for that low a slope.

joecaption 02-26-2012 08:17 AM

That roof should have been started up on top of the old roof by at least 2, ft.
Now you have to low a slope as pointed out, with any wind at all the water will just blow under the trim where the roof meets the side of the house, those screws are far more likly to leak because the water can not run off the roof like it should, that door must just barely clear the rafters.
Looks like the whole area around that chimmney is going to be the main source of leaking.
All we have is the pictures to go by, but it looks like thay may be trying to count on caulking to stop the leaks. Caulking will fail everytime when you have two differant materials that expand and contract a lot in contact.
What do you want to bet everytime you call the person that built this shows up with a tube of caulking and a ladder.
Unless you completly redo the roof it's always going to be leaking.
It looks more like a first time DIY attempt to build a roof.
The rest judging by the pictures looks fine.

steelgoddess 02-26-2012 08:18 AM


Originally Posted by Windows on Wash
That type of roof metal is not rated for that low a slope.

Can you tell me what type it is? All proposals just reference 40 year metal roof.

Also is there somewhere to see the acceptable slopes for different roof types?


Sent from my iPad using DIY Forum

OldNBroken 02-26-2012 09:13 AM

Sorry but you have two major problems here. First T-111 may be 5/8" but it is not structural sheathing. Second, that low of a slope tying into your shingle roof should ONLY have a low slope roofing material (single-ply or torchdown/BUR). There are metal systems we can install on there but if you/your contractor has to ask what it is it is best to not use it. The metal you have on there is rolled rib. THE bottom of the barrel cheapest material one can install on anything. It has absolutely no business on that roof. Odds are their transition flashing only extends under the shingles six inches at best. Proper installation would be a single-ply system extending 18-24" up the roof and the shingles brought back down over the top of that.

I'm going to guess the worst area leaking is right under that valley. Your tie-in to the shingles as well as every lap on your roof is sucking water and will continue to do so and there isn't enough caulk in the world going to stop that. Sorry to have to tell you this but you asked why it leaks.

steelgoddess 02-26-2012 10:53 AM

No need to be sorry-- as I want to know all the possibilities.. and while I hope the contractor knows the whats and whys, I have no pretense in knowing alot. That is why I am trying to give myself a crash course in trying to get this resolved.

Codes has already approved the construction. However, they weren't aware of the water issue when doing so. They have also required the contractor fix it. It's a very long story, and this deck is just one part of the overall.

Anyway, from the contract paperwork I have it notes classic rib sheet metal roofing panels 40 year. It seems there are a few brands of this. So far i have found the minimum slope to be either 2-1/2/12 or 3/12 depending which brand. I don't understand why two brands of the same thing would have different mins.

Is rolled rib the same as classic rib?

When codes asked what the slope was the answer was 2/12, so that is how I know the installed slope.

And yes, first it was foam, next flashing and caulk, and them some more flashing and more caulk. The caulk part always makes me nervous. The foam was also a big issue, but they removed it, as it was doing more harm than good.

So visually for someone like me...down low on the knowledge ladder.. if it had a bigger pitch, lets say 3/12 how would it look different visually to me?

Thanks again for all the helpful comments.

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