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Old 02-02-2012, 10:14 PM   #151
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Wavy roof! Need opinions/advice


Wow, thanks for taking all those pics and still getting back to us with more info!

Just because it wasn't insulated or heated doesn't necessarily mean we can rule out a ventilation problem. New houses have a ton of moisture in them. All the wood, cement, people, etc, etc...

Whatever it may be.....moisture, heat, cold, demons, whatever it is, it's trying to get out of that attic and living space, and it's coming through the seams.

^^^^firehawk has some good points too. I wonder if this sheathing product is going to be the ultimate culprit and have a large law suit on their hands.......

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Old 02-03-2012, 07:06 AM   #152
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What effect would a load of bad shingles have on this condition. Not shingles that just flat out leaked, but didn't shed all their moisture very fast. Kinda spongy. It is a good pitch but could they be bad. Could the shingle company be cutting corners to save on asphalt with oil at $100 a barrel. Could they be using Soy asphalt or something new that doesn't work. It didn't look like the seams were bad with the felt paper on. But after the shingles went on it showed. Did the nails that penetrated the foil barrier let moisture from the house get under the felt and it was absorbed by the osb at the edges.
I'm already in TN please elaborate as to who built this or where this happened. I'd like to see.
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Old 02-03-2012, 01:52 PM   #153
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I don't think bad shingles would be the complete cause of this. Especially on 20-30 houses. Is the builder buying that many shingles at once and just storing them on site? I'm not really familiar with that scale of construction.
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Old 02-03-2012, 01:58 PM   #154
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Originally Posted by joeh20 View Post
What effect would a load of bad shingles have on this condition. Not shingles that just flat out leaked, but didn't shed all their moisture very fast. Kinda spongy. It is a good pitch but could they be bad. Could the shingle company be cutting corners to save on asphalt with oil at $100 a barrel. Could they be using Soy asphalt or something new that doesn't work. It didn't look like the seams were bad with the felt paper on. But after the shingles went on it showed. Did the nails that penetrated the foil barrier let moisture from the house get under the felt and it was absorbed by the osb at the edges.
I'm already in TN please elaborate as to who built this or where this happened. I'd like to see.

The shingles are not the problem. it could be the felt wasn't flat when the shingles were laid except you can see the outline of all of the plywood used.
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Old 02-03-2012, 02:42 PM   #155
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Shingles would not be a factor.Underlayment ?.,Maybe.,but the chances of every home looking like that would be slim.

The thing to remember is with the amount of homes in the area that resemble this it has to be an issue that is associated with one or 2 things that everyone of these homes share.

Is it a requirement in that subdivision for every home to have Solarbord?

The fact is.,every home that is like this share the same link or connection that this home has been exposed to.
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Old 02-03-2012, 03:46 PM   #156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loneframer
As far as rafter spacing, odd layouts are not uncommon on a roof of that nature. To stick frame that is reasonably complicated and sometimes hip/valley jacks are cut in pairs for speed and they don't necessarily match the common rafter layout. This is not an issue unless the spacing is greater than 22.5" between 2 members, which is the maximum spacing as per the sheathing specs. There are other scenarios that can alter layout as well. The key is being within maximum spacing limits.

The roofer was justified in his concerns with the breathability of the product. That may be a key factor as this plays out.
I don't care how cut-up a roof is. There's no excuse for the rafters to not be straight and on layout.
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Old 02-03-2012, 03:50 PM   #157
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I don't think ventilation has anything to do with it.
The roof would show a problem like that over a longer period of time, not overnight.
I don't think it's moisture either.
I think it's just the nature of the product.
It passes code, so I think the builder is off the hook.
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Old 02-03-2012, 05:35 PM   #158
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I don't care how cut-up a roof is. There's no excuse for the rafters to not be straight and on layout.
Straight is one thing, but falling on layout is another. What if there is a beam located on a 16" center? You shift the layout to one side or the other, or add another one to keep under max spacing.

I've framed homes where HVAC ducts were required to be centered over windows in a vaulted ceiling. Guess what, add a rafter and shift them to accommodate the ductwork.

Skylights, same thing. They are laid out to center on the room, so layouts may shift, either a lot or marginally.

Dormers, interior gables, a common rafter used to pin the ridge on a hip roof...


Look at any complex truss roof with hip trusses. I've never seen one that isn't laid out from the corners toward the center of the building.
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Old 02-03-2012, 06:22 PM   #159
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loneframer
Straight is one thing, but falling on layout is another. What if there is a beam located on a 16" center? You shift the layout to one side or the other, or add another one to keep under max spacing.

I've framed homes where HVAC ducts were required to be centered over windows in a vaulted ceiling. Guess what, add a rafter and shift them to accommodate the ductwork.

Skylights, same thing. They are laid out to center on the room, so layouts may shift, either a lot or marginally.

Dormers, interior gables, a common rafter used to pin the ridge on a hip roof...

Look at any complex truss roof with hip trusses. I've never seen one that isn't laid out from the corners toward the center of the building.
Of course. As long as they stay parallel.
And I don't use a common at the end of the ridge.

Last edited by titanoman; 02-03-2012 at 09:53 PM.
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Old 02-03-2012, 07:41 PM   #160
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I'm already in TN please elaborate as to who built this or where this happened. I'd like to see.
Thanks for the offer Joe. I prefer not giving specifics on the precise location or who the builder is. I am sure you understand.
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Old 02-03-2012, 07:43 PM   #161
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Is it a requirement in that subdivision for every home to have Solarbord?
It is not a requirement, but I am almost positive that it is a standard for the homes in my immediate area of the subdivision. I am pretty sure they ALL have Solarbord.
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Old 02-03-2012, 07:44 PM   #162
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It passes code, so I think the builder is off the hook.
I don't agree with that at all.
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Old 02-03-2012, 07:46 PM   #163
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Wow - are we gonna hit 200 posts on this thread? It is now the most replied to thread in the history of the roofing section on this forum...

Thanks for the help everyone! I am gonna keep giving you all the info you ask me for, and also keep you updated on what is going on....
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Old 02-03-2012, 07:55 PM   #164
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Found the following. Read the entire article here.

The term ghost lines or roof ridging was coined to describe the effect of osb edge swelling under thin roof shingles. The Structural Board Association (SBA), a trade association that represents osb manufacturers in North America, has issued a technical bulletin outlining a plan to prevent this phenomenon. SBA correctly indicates that dry storage, proper installation, adequate roof ventilation and application of a warm-side vapor barrier will help prevent roof ridging.


Irreversible edge swelling has been the biggest knock on osb. Manufacturers have done a good job of addressing this issue at the manufacturing facility and during transportation by coating panel edges. But the reality is that builders donít limit osb use to full-sized sheets. The edges of cut sheets are seldom if ever treated in the field. Houses under construction get rained on. And if you use osb in an area of very high humidity, like over an improperly vented attic or over a poorly constructed crawlspace, you are asking for trouble.


Osb responds more slowly to changes in relative humidity and exposure to liquid water. It takes longer for water to soak osb and conversely, once water gets into osb it is very slow to leave. The longer that water remains within osb the more likely it is to rot. Wood species has a significant impact. If osb is made from aspen or poplar, it gets a big fat zero with regard to natural decay resistance. Many of the western woods used to manufacture plywood at least have moderate decay resistance.
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Old 02-03-2012, 08:00 PM   #165
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Trust me, I have framed in excess of 1000 homes over the last 10 years and the ghosting you are seeing is not normal in any way.

This is why I believe it has to do with the specific product you had installed.

By the way, around here most tract homes use OSB with not a single problem.

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