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Old 11-19-2010, 08:58 AM   #16
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Vinyl sided chimney on side of house - rotting OSB


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Originally Posted by Slyfox View Post
You install regular L 'head wall flashing' at the face 'front lower portion' of the chimney.

Install step flashing's up the side, letting the last piece of flashing & shingle wrap the top corner.

Install L 'backpan' flashing 'at the top'.
The back pan should be cut to go atleast 10" up the chimney,
atleast 12" on to the roof sheathing,
atleast 3" past the inside corner 'facing the roof',
atleast 2' past the overhang of shingles on outer corner 'rake side' and
have a slight slope to it making the inside corner the high point, thus sloping to the rake.

The back pan will set over top of the siding panel that hits roof level,
than under the panels of siding from there up.
This allows the water to run on top of the siding rather than behind it.
Thanks

1) To make certai I understand: you are sloping the entire "backpan" flashing relative to the chimney, with the "rake" side of the flashing further up the roof?

2) If so are you:

A. Bringing the backpan slightly further out from the chimney at the top of rake side of the flashing?

-or-

B. Installing the entire width of the top of the flashing flush with the chimney, and pulling the bottom of the flashing out away from the chimney at it's lower edge on the rake side?

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Old 11-19-2010, 09:54 AM   #17
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Vinyl sided chimney on side of house - rotting OSB


What's needed here is a Contractor, not just a roofer. I'll put my life on it that the siding is leaking, not the roof. Seen it many times just like the picture shows. Some siders think vinyl siding alone keeps water out.

A ton of work like this in the near future fellow Contractors. Too many slop jobs in the past 15-20 years.
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Old 11-19-2010, 10:28 AM   #18
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Vinyl sided chimney on side of house - rotting OSB


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What's needed here is a Contractor, not just a roofer. I'll put my life on it that the siding is leaking, not the roof. Seen it many times just like the picture shows. Some siders think vinyl siding alone keeps water out.

A ton of work like this in the near future fellow Contractors. Too many slop jobs in the past 15-20 years.

No question attention will have to be paid to the siding and flashing detailing at that junction - for starters, there may not even be a water resistant barrier (Tyvek or similar) behind the siding. And at a minimum using slyfox's technique (where a portion of the flashing will be under the siding) the WRB will have to be carefully detailed where it is slit to fit over the vertical leg of the flashing so as to prevent water entry.

Such detailing is why I'm so skeptical that this is an "easy" problem to solve if "you "just know how" - I'm wiling to bet that when everyone has had their say and we all agree on a "best" design (if we do), that it will incorporate at least some details that each of us overlooked in our original proposed solutions.
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Old 11-19-2010, 10:34 AM   #19
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Vinyl sided chimney on side of house - rotting OSB


Here's a closer look at the intersection:
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Vinyl sided chimney on side of house - rotting OSB-chimney-rake-flashing-03.jpg  
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Old 11-19-2010, 06:33 PM   #20
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Vinyl sided chimney on side of house - rotting OSB


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All the rainwater should be diverted into a gutter at the eave, not off the side of the house. With the pan pitched the wrong way you'll also have a gap where the last pc of step flashing meets the pan.

I'm also having a bit of trouble picturing how the j channel that runs up the fascia and along the pan would integrate with the back pan if it was partially covering a pc of siding or even sticking out further than the fascia. I can see it working with traditional siding but maybe i'm having a brain fart with the j channel.

I've always pitched mine to run back onto the roof and bent the rake edge to lap over the fascia. The rake side is a tricky intersection to waterproof so I try to make the water go the other way, which is a much easier corner to flash properly (you can't have ice/water on your fascia board), and prevents staining.
You can create the slope in either direction by munipilation of the pans bend and do so with both sides setting tightly against the chimney wall.
I always divert water off the roof in the shortest most direct route.

Your J-channel can be cut to form the needed coverage where the roof flashing & siding meet.
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Old 11-19-2010, 06:40 PM   #21
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Vinyl sided chimney on side of house - rotting OSB


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Originally Posted by Michael Thomas View Post
No question attention will have to be paid to the siding and flashing detailing at that junction - for starters, there may not even be a water resistant barrier (Tyvek or similar) behind the siding. And at a minimum using slyfox's technique (where a portion of the flashing will be under the siding) the WRB will have to be carefully detailed where it is slit to fit over the vertical leg of the flashing so as to prevent water entry.

Such detailing is why I'm so skeptical that this is an "easy" problem to solve if "you "just know how" - I'm wiling to bet that when everyone has had their say and we all agree on a "best" design (if we do), that it will incorporate at least some details that each of us overlooked in our original proposed solutions.

I have two laborers currently working with me, one with roughly four years experience and one with three years.
Either of them could roof & flash that chimney.

My point, you need someone familiar with both roofing & siding applications and your problem will be solved, it's really not as difficult a fix as your thinking.
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Old 11-19-2010, 07:38 PM   #22
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Vinyl sided chimney on side of house - rotting OSB


may not even be coming from there
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Old 11-19-2010, 08:12 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Slyfox View Post
You can create the slope in either direction by munipilation of the pans bend and do so with both sides setting tightly against the chimney wall.
I always divert water off the roof in the shortest most direct route.
I know HOW to make it run out the rake edge and all down the siding, just not why.

On second thought, I don't know how either, since it would create the gap between step and back pan dealy (to quote palin) I mentioned earlier.


The most direct route in any flat pan behind a chimney straddling the rake edge would be split 50/50 between running it towards the rake or inside corner. A more direct route than gutters would be right onto the ground, but that's not right.
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Old 11-19-2010, 11:29 PM   #24
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Vinyl sided chimney on side of house - rotting OSB


My preference would be to keep the water on the roof.You would only need the slightest slope considering the short width of the chimney.A simple water test would tell you exactly where your peskey leak is coming from.Either way,it is a very simple fix.Even if you had to redo siding,flashings,shingles,etc.
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Old 11-19-2010, 11:31 PM   #25
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Have you checked b-vent flashing,pan,etc uptop?
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Old 11-20-2010, 07:58 AM   #26
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Vinyl sided chimney on side of house - rotting OSB


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I know HOW to make it run out the rake edge and all down the siding, just not why.

On second thought, I don't know how either, since it would create the gap between step and back pan dealy (to quote palin) I mentioned earlier.


The most direct route in any flat pan behind a chimney straddling the rake edge would be split 50/50 between running it towards the rake or inside corner. A more direct route than gutters would be right onto the ground, but that's not right.
I divert it off the rake side rather than onto the roof for a couple reasons.
1. pushing the minor amount of water hitting that small of an area out onto the roof into the heavier run off will/doe's cause a swirling effect and pushes it back into the sides of the chimney.
2. the amount of water hitting the back of that chimney is going to be such a small amount it won't hurt anything running off the side,
assuming the siding is installed properly.

No matter which way you divert the water you have to create a slope,
it's a very mild slope in this case but a slope just the same and you have to do it with out creating a space between the pan and the wall of the chimney.
I do that with a double crimp bend on one side and a single standard bend on the other.
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Old 11-20-2010, 08:05 AM   #27
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Deff L flash it. Make an L with metal flashing, Position the large side of the L under the shigles, then run the other side of the L up the chimney. Of course, caulk and seal
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Old 11-20-2010, 04:55 PM   #28
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We have a vinyl sided chimney on the side of the house about 6 feet or so from the top of the roof. It is cut into the overhang of the roof about 2 feet and then 2 feet extend past the rake edge of the roof. So the back (top) side of the chimney is about 2 feet wide on the roof and then 2 feet off the roof. I just noticed a wet spot from the basement on the subfloor and investigated further. I went up to the roof and noticed gaps in the siding where the water ran right off the chimney and into and behind the siding. There's a good chunk of rotted OSB on the chimney chase now.

I will have a contractor come out next week to look at it but what I am asking is to see what the best method of correcting this so it doesn't happen again once the chimney chase wall is repaired. How can you direct water so it doesn't hit the chimney side wall?

Thanks.
If you are having a contractor come out to look, why don't you wait to see what he suggests for a fix, after all, he will be looking at it. Although it may be an easy fix, we are only guessing not seeing firsthand.
I would find it difficult to tell you the best approach to fixing water and leaking issues without looking.
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Old 11-20-2010, 05:35 PM   #29
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Vinyl sided chimney on side of house - rotting OSB


Problem, is I see contractors "fix" such problems incorrectly all the time.
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Old 11-20-2010, 06:11 PM   #30
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Problem, is I see contractors "fix" such problems incorrectly all the time.
Yep, that's when we usually get a call.

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