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DIherself 04-16-2012 02:47 PM

the very best materials for replacement chimney flashing are?
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I got this much: No roll flashing, no caulk, no black jack, and it's not really called "flashing." I have a roofer coming out this week, and I would like to know what is the best material to use for the job. Sheet metal? Polyurethane instead of black jack? Is there a web site that tells how to do the very best chimney flashing job?

It's a showdown between old chimney bricks versus bad flashing. Just when I think I've nailed down the problem, someone tells me, like today, that it's normal to be able to stick a screwdriver into the bricks and have them crumble a little; therefore, I don't need to hire a mason to rebuild the chimney. A roofer already blackjacked all around the flashing, but he did not remove the flashing.

I've been told my flashing doesn't look right, but maybe that's the way step flashing is supposed to look? Do I need step flashing, for whatever purpose that serves? Someone said the flashing should only have four joints, not 36 like I have now.

I've already spent hundreds, had two roofers out here, still have a leak and still have to fix it. Thanks for your help from Florida where the raining season starts soon.

Michael Thomas 04-16-2012 04:56 PM

In general, a combination of step and counter flashing, with a back-cap and front cap and base flashings, with a saddle behind the chimney if required.

Roofmaster417 04-16-2012 05:16 PM

When I have reroofs that have chimney's that close to the valley I feel the need to slap an architect.

dmc@RCR 04-16-2012 05:28 PM

Yes, there is a website for that.

Chimney Flashing info

cleveman 04-16-2012 10:11 PM

sheet lead is what you want. Go to youtube and type in chimney flashing and you'll find some very good how-to videos. Tell your installer you want it done that way and keep telling them that until you get one who will do it.

Roofmaster417 04-17-2012 10:02 AM

Unfortunatley that chimney within the valley is your roof systems weakest link.

That corner that is so close to the valley entrance is giving me a migraine.I install my counter flashing in 4 pieces.,2 side skirts a pan in the back and an apron on the front.

I bet Tinner666 would have a creative solution to your problem.I would keep the Blackjack to a minimum because when you do decide to proceed with the CF installation your roofer could charge more because of the threat of being covered in that goo.

If your able to stick a screw driver deep into the mortar joint its a matter of time before bricks start falling out.

I would find a qualified contractor to do some tuck pointing and a top notch CF installation.

IMO some focus should be given to that corner so close to the valley.I know when it rains in Florida it flat gets it.Rain drops the size of dimes and a whole lot of them pounding your roof and flooding that corner.

You can put black jack in that corner but the constant flow of rain hits resistence against the black jack and sooner or later it will give way under constant pressure.

DIherself 04-18-2012 11:12 AM

Roofmaster, when you say focus on the valley, did you mean maybe Tinner could deflect the water by fabricating a piece of tin there? If blackjack is not the best thing to use, what is? I thought polyurethane was, but the latest roofer told me yesterday that polyurethane is used on mobile home (metal) roofs, not on my shingles. Is roof cement good enough? (I wish Tinner had used different numbers than 666)

The second roofer did a WATER TEST right after he did his thing, and the trickle leak I am now dealing with was discovered. He told me he really poured water around there for a long time. That's when he said it was the chimney.

So I had another roofer out yesterday and wanted him to do a water test when he repaired the trickle leak, but he said it never rains as hard as a water test. What about that? Should I just hold off and wait until it rains and then look in the attic? Seems to me a roof should be constructed, repaired, whatever, to withstand the worst rain.

Michael Thomas 04-19-2012 05:20 AM

What I would do, if that was my building, would be to replace the furnace / water heater with sidewall vented CAT IV appliances, scalp the chimney down to below the roof, and re-roof the valley area.

Expensive now, cheaper in the long run than trying to flash and maintain a masonry chimney in that location.

tinner666 04-19-2012 06:35 AM

3 Attachment(s)
:laughing: "(I wish Tinner had used different numbers than 666)". That goes back to the early days of Windows and trying to get the 'Tinner' handle. All options were gone and the site suggested that one. What did I know? :laughing: No connotations meant by it.

I treat those the same as hidden/deadend valleys. After the apron, the valley metal closes the corner and flash normally from there. I've used aluminum, lead and copper with good results. It just takes a little forethought.

Some pix and links.

You'll need to sing into DIY's sister site to see these.

tinner666 04-19-2012 06:38 AM

BTW, the HO applied the siding and it was supposed to get redone later. They were leery and I was the 4'th. roofer to work on it. I got an e-mail from them last year. Even though Hatteras Island got cut in half, and the 1'st. floor flooded, the roof didn't leak.

DIherself 04-19-2012 08:22 AM

Tinner"666": Well, blaming your handle on computers is believable, but I have had some roofers from hell out here. I was talking to one the other day, and I asked him if he would use lead for the flashing, and he said no, that here in Florida, squirrels eat lead. Unfortunately, I believe him. I also believe that your roofing work outlasted the flooding, which is hilarious in a diabolic sort of way. Thank you again for the pics and all.

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