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Old 04-13-2012, 10:13 AM   #1
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Ventilation issues


We bought an English Tudor that has had some work done to it by the previous owner. The second floor has been finished with little thought to ventilation. The drywall is only 3-4 inches away from the roof. There are 3 roof vents but NO soffits. Even with 60-70 degree weather (chicago) the 2nd floor is At LEAST 10 degrees warmer than the 1st floor. I can't afford to gut the second fl so a friend suggested that I replace the vents with turbines and install some low profile vents 18 inches above the gutters. My question is how much will this really help? The "attic" space is the length of the home but VERY narrow. Any suggestions??

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Old 04-13-2012, 12:30 PM   #2
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Ventilation issues


You need intake air. After that, convection (provided there is ample vent space between roof deck and insulation) will provide the air movement.

Putting a powered vent without making sure they intake air is properly balanced will just suck the conditioned air from the home up and out of the wall.

At that point, you might as well just condition the inside of the wall because that is what you will be doing.

See if getting some proper intake air in there doesn't resolve the issue well enough.

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Old 04-13-2012, 12:48 PM   #3
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Ventilation issues


Soffit vents and a ridge vent.
There was suppost to be foam baffles where those outside walls come close to the roof so the air could flow from the soffit vents out through the roof vents.

How much insulation is in the knee walls and on the ceiling in the attic?
http://www.energystar.gov/index.cfm?...sulation_table
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Old 04-14-2012, 12:00 AM   #4
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Ventilation issues


No turbines, as said by WoW. Check with your local Building Department for their view. Many houses near water shouldn't be vented as it brings in the moisture to condense on the cold roof sheathing, venting only adds 2-3% cooling effect; http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf1999/tenwo99a.pdf
http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/pdf2002/rose02a.pdf (up-dated version)

If you do add eave vents, http://www.cor-a-vent.com/in-vent.cfm
I would add XPS inside on the sloped ceiling, taped and air sealed to negate ice dams from warming the cavity; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...bout-diffusion

If no moisture problems now, I would think carefully about venting; http://www.professionalroofing.net/a...2/feature2.asp

With the warmer weather, you may be having solar gain, warming the roof shingles (especially asphalt) and lack of insulation, transmitting to the rooms upstairs because some tudor walls are the roof- or very close to each other. Lack of an efficient cold-air return can cause poor air circulation upstairs, leaving the rising heat from below stagnant in the upper room areas above. Lack of attic air-sealing (especially basement/crawl) will contribute to this "stack effect", and help create ice-dams in winter; http://www.wag-aic.org/1999/WAG_99_baker.pdf

http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...46-dam-ice-dam

Attic venting is primarily for ice dams and moisture removal in the attic, not cooling; http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...on?full_view=1

I suggest having a house energy test done to find the weak spots in the whole house.

Gary
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Last edited by Gary in WA; 04-14-2012 at 12:04 PM. Reason: added links
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