Vented Drip Edge?
I am having a new roof put on. The house does not have a ridge vent so I want one put one on for proper ventalation. However, I do not have soffet vents and the gutters and soffets were redone only three years ago. I do have gable vents but I don't think they provide enough air circulation. I hate to pull down all that new materail to install sofet vents so the contractor suggested a vented drip edge.
1. Do the gutters have to come down to install this?
2. If ice forms (location=NY) in the gutter will it back up into the vent?
3. Do I need to make sure I have air circulation between the VDE and the ridge vent. I have two layers of insullation in the attic - do I need to install those foam channels for air circulation.
1. The gutters probably do not have to come down for the installation of Vented Drip Edge Vent, from Air Vent Corp., but then the contractor only will have the option of cutting the 1" slot on the roof sheathing right at the eave edge instead of the alternative of cutting the top 1" slot into the existing fascia boards.
2. The crowning of ice freeze in the gutters in the winter time has always been of GREAT CONCERN to me when I installed Vented Drip Edge, so for my own pwace of mind and a much more aesthetic and functional ventilation alternative, I have been using the SMART VENT product manufactured by DCIproducts.com which has been a great relief for me due to the same concerns you expressed.
With the SMART VENT from DCI Products, you would not have to be concerned with the gutters being in the way or not. It is a very simple and functional product that has really taken the concern out of many im properly vented intake scenarios.
3. Which ever product you and your roofer decide to use, it is IMPERATIVE that the free flowage of air is able to travel from the new eave area or soffit/fascia board area fresh air intake vent product all the way up to the continuous ridge ventilation product. I would also ensure that the ridge vent contains an internal filter for weather protection and an external wind deflecting baffle for ensuring the ridge vent act as an exhaust vent rather than an intake vent due to blowing winds, especially when rain or powdery snow conditions are expected.
Interesting product. Thanks for the tip! :thumbup:
Here is an image of the product installation procedure and a link to the web site for the Smart Vent by DCI Products, inc.
yeah,smart vent is definitely the weapon of choice,but you could remove the fascia cover,just remove panels where you want vents,put vented panels(same mfgr.)(and cut holes there)in those spots,recap the fascia ,and reinstall the gutter easy enough,I would prefer that if it was my house
Quick question about the smart vent product.
Could you use this on only a portion of the eave? In other words, with a 40 foot long ridge, if you have a continuous ridge vent flowing at 18 in per linear foot and you have the whole front of the roof with the Smart vent product flowing the same rate, what about the back of the roof? To keep the ventilation in balance, you'd need half in front and half in back, wouldn't you? Wouldn't that give you a bulge in the roof where the smart vent is installed?
Update: OK, I thought about it and answered my own question. I could run the smart vent the full length, but only cut slots in the decking to match the additional venting I require. Is that correct?
w/ridge vent the entire way,you should also cut the slot(for the smart vent) the entire way,except for nonheated overhang areas
Sorry, I should have included this little part which makes a difference....I have vented soffit panels already.
I have 1100 sq ft of roof, and right now 244 sq inches of soffit vent. I want to move to about 600 or so at the soffits. The ridge vent is going to be added and should flow about that much given the length to be installed.
If I have slots cut the full length of the roof for the smart vent, then I'll have way more vent at the soffit than the ridge can handle. I want to maintain as close a balance as possible.
Instead of wrestling with the vented panels and trying to splice in more, the smart vent would make things MUCH easier for me.
The intake ventilation aspect of the ventilation scenario is more imperative than the exhaust portion.
You can not have too much intake ventilation.
The exhaust can not function properly without some access point to draw the neww fresh air into the attic from, and if there is too little of the intake ventilation portals, then a portion of the exhaust ventilation system will act as the intake vent. Especially with exhaust vent products without an internal weather filter and an external wind deflecting baffle, which are more prone to allowing weather infiltration by mistake.
If you have 100 % vented soffit panels with all of the wood cut out above the panels and without the panels being clogged from dust, paint, cobwebs or any other type of particles, then your intake ratio probably will be sufficient.
I choose to run the Smart Vent 100 % continuously on all eave edges to allow for the most amount of fresh air intake as possible.
I understand about sucking in weather and can see where that could be a problem.
But, I have just a few questions that I think I'll post in a new thread since this one is drifting from vented drip edge.
How about Retro-Fit?
Just had my roof re-roofed about 4 months ago.
Long story short, I don't have any soffit vents. (Trust me that this was a long drawn out converstion, lasting several hours. It ended with" it wasn't in the contract, they weren't obligated to it", coupled with the mistaken belief that I did have soffit vents.)
So here I am, with a brand new roof, and a need to install soffit vents. It get's better, like this thread, I have no actual soffit on the outside of my house.
Which of the two products would you recommend? The smart-vent looks the way to go, but the Air-Vent looks easier to install.
Remember, I'm trying to retro-fit this to an existing roof, and I'm most likely going to have to do this myself. (Unless you thing a roofing contractor would do this for under 300 in labor (material I can supply)
You would have a very very hard time finding anybody who would touch that job now that somebody else already just put a new roof on it.
They would think, WTF, why didn't you just call me out to do the job the right way in the first place, even if they would have provided the same intitial results as your first contractor did.
If it was not in the contract, the contractor did not have an obligation to do the additional work.
If he advised you that you had sufficient intake ventilation to properly balance your entire ventilation system, then that would be a different twist on the story. He may even have some liability to you, if he put that in writing and now you find out that your home does not meet the minimum specifications from the shingle manufacturer to validate the warranty.
Don't feel alone on that point. Over 90 % of all roofing installations done, do not meet the manufacturers requirements.
You did not state, or I missed it, about how much exhaust ventilation you had installed on your roof. By adding the soffit ventilation with NO exhaust ventilation, if that be the case, you would not be gaining much, if anything.
Probably, in your case, although I personally favor the Smart Vent from DCI Products, Inc., I would think that you would have a better chance at adapting the Eave Drip Edge Vent from the Air Vent Corporation.
If you have gutters installed, they will have to be taken down first. You would have to use the alternate method of where to cut the slot for the intake ventilation to enter. It would have to be cut in at the top of the fascia board.
Do you have an aluminum wrap on your existing fascia boards now? If so, that will make this task a little more difficult too, because you have to cut through the aluminum in addition to the wooden fasci board.
You maybe might get lucky, by not having to pry up the bottom course of shingle, but it depends on how the contractor installed his starter course of shingles. If he used upside down 3-tab shingles and nailed them high, you might be able to sneak the flange of the Eave Drip Edge Vent under the starter course and the actual field shingles. If he used the true 5" or 7" starter strip shingles, then the nail location will be much lower in all probability.
If you can, please mention the entire length of the eave edges on the sides that you intend to install the intake ventilation on.
Also, pictures would help, if you could post them.
The Eave Drip Edge Vent comes in 8 foot sections ov a heavier guage aluminum and you have to remember the end plugs, plus be a little skilled at using proper tin snips.
Smart vent is a good example of somone in an offices "neat idea" with no practical real world roofing application for common sence. In short to put the underlayment over it creates a void in warranty and can leak. I would also question how much it could possibly really vent. No one uses it in these parts for good reason. Vented drip edge is good without a gutter.
By now, I have probably over 100 jobs, if not more, with Smart Vent installed, with ZERO complaints.
I have never heard anything from the shingle manufacturers regarding the invalidation of the warranty by installing this product and I have asked Certainteed and Tamko so far.
What they have replied though, is that without the proper amount of total NFVA, that that may place the warranty in jeopordy.
So, I stand on the previous 5-6 years of practical real world experience working with this product. I have been installing this product and back it up or appropriate alternatives, wholeheartedly, unless some day in the future I find out otherwise, from my own practical experiences.
The concept of no-one else touching it is what I personally thought as well.
He did advise that there is proper intake ventilation. It however, is not documented in any writing, it's all verbal.
They company that installed it made a big deal how they install to Manufacturer's warranty. Actually, I felt very good about in the install till I started investigating adding insulation to my home, which made me investigate ventilation. No Day labors, the roof is to be inspected by GAF (the manufacturer of the shingle) for proper installation.
A ridge vent was installed at the time of shingling. There is an existing Gable Vents. (I know now from reading that if I actually had soffit vents, this would be a problem and would have to be sealed)
It's an architectural Shingle (Timberline 30). I have the delivery invoice from the building materials company.
3 Bundles of "GAF Universal Starter 100' BDL) were delivered.
The roof is 40 foot long, and I would need to vent along the entire length, of both sides, front and back. There is a little peak in the front of the house to cover the front steps. I don't think this needs the vent based on my interpretation of the reading material.
It was pouring rain last night, so after work today, I'll get the camera out, and do a close inspection of existing conditions.
The skill with the proper tin snips I'm not worried about. I need 80 linear foot of drip edge, and it's sold in 100 linear foot boxes, so I'll have some to experiment with. (I have a place I can get Air-vent ProFlow)
Care to elaborate on the endplugs? Haven't found that mentioned yet.
I'll also scan up the contract. I did ask them about soffit Vents on the contract, and they notated it. One thought I have is I could go to the manufacturer, since they are warrantying the roof. Of course this could backfire, and they could just say the roof was installed improperly, and the warranty is void.
Of course, the contract just pissed me off more, since there is a check box for Vented Drip edge. If the stupid estimator had done his job correctly, he could have just sold me that at the time of purchase. It's not like I would have minded the extra 200 bucks. (I'm blaming the estimator because I did ask about soffit vents since I remember my parents had them installed when they had they're house reshingled. I didn't understand how important they were until the last few weeks.)
I do have these pictures of a different project, so it's as good as it gets till this afternoon. I think the Side view gives a good idea. The point is how high the gutter is, and how little of a soffit actually exists. (This is post new roof)
Back of house
Side view of house
I personally I have a very shaky chance of getting the roofer to redo it. I'm not really sure I want to go that route. I was orginally thinking just do it myself.
However, if you feel that I could be moderately successful, I will pursue the roofing company. It's one advantage with going with a bigger roofing company, there are people higher up the food chain (other than the guy swinging the hammer)
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