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Old 08-24-2012, 10:51 AM   #1
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transitioning between cedar shingles and asphalt shingles


I am about to repaint the 3 family house I am in. The back top side of the house has some rotten/deteriorated cedar shigles. The area goes from a flat wall into a outward slope.

I am renting a boom lift, so in the hopes of making the repair faster and to prevent that type of rot again(plus save $), I am looking to replace the damaged part of the siding with asphalt shingles. This will be about a 4 foot area from the edge up to about where the rot ends whcih is right under a set of windows.

I am very familiar with cedar shingles and asphalt shingles. I would like to know if this is a feasible idea, and the best way to transition it? I assume flashing under the last course fo cedar shingles, as well as lay a starter course of cedar shingles under the last course. I will be capping the bottom row of cedar with a pine board.

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Old 08-30-2012, 03:48 PM   #2
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transitioning between cedar shingles and asphalt shingles


You got me confused. Are you saying you are going to replace cedar shingle siding with asphalt roofing shingles?

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Old 08-30-2012, 03:58 PM   #3
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transitioning between cedar shingles and asphalt shingles


Makes little since to me to.
Post a picture.
There used to be shingles made just for siding houses back in the 50's or 60's. Ugly look.

May have rotted because of direct contact with the roof or there just to close to the roof and are getting splash back.
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Old 09-04-2012, 03:50 PM   #4
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transitioning between cedar shingles and asphalt shingles


No, this is not that crappy sheets of shingles they did years ago...that looks terrible.

This is going to be standard asphalt roofing shigles right beneath standard cedar shingles. The top half of the exterior wall will be cedar, the bottom half( which also has a curve outwards at the bottom) will be asphalt. I need to know the ideal way to transition them.

The pic below is it, the area beneath the uppermost 2 windows is in terrible shape. The wood beneath is still sound enough to take nails though.

Back of house:


View of area that needs repair:
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:11 PM   #5
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transitioning between cedar shingles and asphalt shingles


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Originally Posted by James77 View Post
No, this is not that crappy sheets of shingles they did years ago...that looks terrible.

This is going to be standard asphalt roofing shigles right beneath standard cedar shingles. The top half of the exterior wall will be cedar, the bottom half( which also has a curve outwards at the bottom) will be asphalt. I need to know the ideal way to transition them.

The pic below is it, the area beneath the uppermost 2 windows is in terrible shape. The wood beneath is still sound enough to take nails though.

Back of house:


View of area that needs repair:
You should tear off the shakes and redeck.Personally I would tear off the entire elevation,redeck then add your choice of siding material.Add some house wrap and possibly notice some better energy bills.

Last edited by Roofmaster417; 09-04-2012 at 09:13 PM.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:45 PM   #6
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transitioning between cedar shingles and asphalt shingles


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You should tear off the shakes and redeck.Personally I would tear off the entire elevation,redeck then add your choice of siding material.Add some house wrap and possibly notice some better energy bills.

How about keeping the intact cedar shingles above the bad area? I'm trying to do this with as little cost and time as possible.

Energy bills are actually quite low, after I replaced every window in the house 5 years ago. Our gas bill for the entire house is $1800/year for 2 occupied floors and hot water/gas dryer.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:12 PM   #7
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transitioning between cedar shingles and asphalt shingles


Ahhh, you wanta asphalt shingle a roof up to a wall. You're gonna have to strip 3 or more courses up past the bad and past window sills, then you'll see what shape the deck is in. Sound enough to take nails is just one thing to look for. New drip and eave edge and paper up to bottom course of cedar. Flash under windows, up sides of window, under cedar if can but don't want to see top of flashing through gaps between them. Start shingling with regular starter course. Last course should not go under bottom cedar but it could come up wall enuff so bottom course new cedar leaves proper reveal of asphalt. If wether is warm enuff for shingle to lay nice and smooth up curve. Every place on wall and roof should have three layers of shingle cedar and or asphalt over it. Towards top of asphalt you'll be trimming backs off. Flash over top of asphalt & up wall. Start with new cedar, 1/4 inch up from flashing laying on asphalt, regular starter course. Some times folks even add thin narrow strip of cedar behind and raised above bottom edge of first course as a kicker to get water farther out, higher than outer edge breaks surface tension so water doesn't creep up and under. Check your reveals for next courses so you don't get somethin weird when you meet old. Caulk/seal/adhere cedar to asphalt flashing, tabs of tar at each corner of tabs top and bottom asphalt. You're done. if you paint windows first won't drip on new shingles.
Lot of that damage was caused or at least encouraged by water under shingles, so check deck, cover well with felt, seal all flashings. Don't know what you mean by " capping the bottom row of cedar with a pine board" You don't want anything on top of or extending out past cedar shingles. If it is something else why not use cedar board?
Yes, it was a great day when asphalt was replaced with asbestos siding.
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Old 09-05-2012, 08:58 PM   #8
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transitioning between cedar shingles and asphalt shingles


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it was a great day when asphalt was replaced with asbestos siding.
Someone has never seen the effects of asbestos exposure.Mesothelioma.Jk
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:12 PM   #9
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Thank you for teh detailed post.

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Originally Posted by notmrjohn View Post
Ahhh, you wanta asphalt shingle a roof up to a wall. You're gonna have to strip 3 or more courses up past the bad and past window sills, then you'll see what shape the deck is in. Sound enough to take nails is just one thing to look for. New drip and eave edge and paper up to bottom course of cedar. Flash under windows, up sides of window, under cedar if can but don't want to see top of flashing through gaps between them. Start shingling with regular starter course. Last course should not go under bottom cedar but it could come up wall enuff so bottom course new cedar leaves proper reveal of asphalt. If wether is warm enuff for shingle to lay nice and smooth up curve. Every place on wall and roof should have three layers of shingle cedar and or asphalt over it. Towards top of asphalt you'll be trimming backs off. Flash over top of asphalt & up wall. Start with new cedar, 1/4 inch up from flashing laying on asphalt, regular starter course. Some times folks even add thin narrow strip of cedar behind and raised above bottom edge of first course as a kicker to get water farther out, higher than outer edge breaks surface tension so water doesn't creep up and under. Check your reveals for next courses so you don't get somethin weird when you meet old. Caulk/seal/adhere cedar to asphalt flashing, tabs of tar at each corner of tabs top and bottom asphalt. You're done. if you paint windows first won't drip on new shingles.
Lot of that damage was caused or at least encouraged by water under shingles, so check deck, cover well with felt, seal all flashings. Don't know what you mean by " capping the bottom row of cedar with a pine board" You don't want anything on top of or extending out past cedar shingles. If it is something else why not use cedar board?
Yes, it was a great day when asphalt was replaced with asbestos siding.
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Old 09-05-2012, 09:12 PM   #10
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transitioning between cedar shingles and asphalt shingles


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Someone has never seen the effects of asbestos exposure.Mesothelioma.Jk
Lead paint sucks too, but man the toxic crap sure did last :D
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Old 09-06-2012, 10:12 AM   #11
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transitioning between cedar shingles and asphalt shingles


One my 1st jobs, I was in elementary school, was goin with Dad to job site and punchin the nail holes in asbestos siding shingles. Little kid could do that, slide it in pull lever. That crunch/chunk sound is still with me. I really wanted to trim some with the guillotine, but Dad said I might need all my fingers someday. When he finally got around to siding addition or our house ( he grew up in asphalt sided farm house and said black felt looked just as good for a while) he was hacked that he couldn't match wood grained post war housing boom siding. Now days they got synthetic asbestos shingles that can match anything.
james, did i mention to pay close attention to flashing and caulking? If I didn't, you should pay close attention to flashing and caulking.
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Last edited by notmrjohn; 09-06-2012 at 10:16 AM.
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Old 09-06-2012, 03:30 PM   #12
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transitioning between cedar shingles and asphalt shingles


Asbestos siding is not nearly as dangerous as made out to be.

Just don't stick it through a chipper vac.

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