torch down small roof section
Could someone please verify I've got my mod bit installation correct?
This is information I've gleaned by watching manufacturer videos, forum posts, etc...
it's a small section only 9' x 12' flat roof and I want to do this myself since the 4 quotes I've gotten have skirted around replacing rotten wood and fixing a raised area where the corner flat roof meets a pitched roof. I'm going to ensure all this is taken care of as time is not a factor for diy...providing it doesn't rain before I'm finished.
PO installed shingles on this flat roof, I'm going to take it all off down to the decking and replace all the rotten decking, eaves, and trim.
1. I'm going to lay 1/2" perlite base sheets
2. underlayment, fiberglass roll roofing. Overlap at the eaves 3"
Question, do I now fasten the base sheet and underlayment both with metal cap nails or do I nail the perlite board down then lay the roll roofing down and nail again?
Is there a formula (spacing, etc...) to the metal cap nails?
3. install drip edge on eaves
4. torch down the cap sheet.
Do overhang the drip edge 1/4" with the cap sheet?
5. flash with metal roll flashing where the flat roof meets the pitch roof and where the flat roof meets wall....? confused on how to properly flash this and at what point in the procedure to do it. Two sides have eaves, one side meets a pitched roof and the other side meets a wall (face of house)
Keep 1-2 class ABC Fire Extinguishers on the roof with you, along with a bucket of water and leave a garden hose with the nozel twisted to idle, so you can grab it quickly and squirt it if anything gets out of hand.
Do not torch over any moisture or morning dew, as it will steam and bubble the melted bitumen and degrade the adhesion and seam quality.
At the side edge overlap seams, after you heat the seams, either use a heavy roller or a consistant foot pressure to gently ooze out about a 1/4" to 1/2" bead of bitumen.
Fires happen to old wood and especially to the perlite board insulation, which will Not burst into flames, but smolder for several hours and finaly catch another flammable organic product on fire, so remain on the roof for 1-2 hours after the final torching work is done and check for "Hot Spots".
Be careful. The ramifications are extensive if done unsafely.
Ed, thanks so much. Let me digest this and see if I have any follow up questions.
Like diagram # 2.
But, on the gable edge, I run an additional sheet vertically, from eave to the sloped roof tie-in, so the it covers up all of the tail ends of the horizontal sheets after they are installed. This way, I use the white 4" salvedge edge line as a guide for the overhang and a neat continuous smooth overhang, secured with an aluminum termination bar, fastened with wood-tec screws every 6" to 12" On Center in the Oval slotted holes.
Other people use a metal Gravel Stop Drip Edge flashing and prime it and torch right to the sheet metal, but I don't like the different expansion and contraction rates of the two different types of materials and the future lack of a quality bond fused to it.
Ed, thanks again for the reply.
lost me a little on this part....according to what you're saying I would actually roll the base and cap in the direction as shown in diagram # 1 (horz). correct?
then roll a finish sheet (vert) to cover up the tail ends where flat roof meets pitched roof (gable).
do I have this correct or did I misunderstand?
Run the sheets parallel to the gutter eave edge, from left to right, up to, but not past the end gable edge of the flat roof. Then, run a full sheet parallel to the end gable edge, with 4" overhanging, from the eave to the sloped roof.
For the wall, I would cut 1/4 sheets, about 4-6 feel long, so you wind up with 10" wide material by 4-6 foot long. Then lay a sheet of plywood on top of the field area roof already done and heat up the 10" sections to stick about 5" on the flat roof and 5" on the wall. This presumes you have to lower portion of the siding off of that wall and then continue with the 4-6 foot sections past the flat roof to sloped roof pitch change transition.
Any open flame is VERY dangerous to work with, especially near an exposed wall.
The top edge of the wall material should then be nailed in ever 3" to 4" across the top of the flashing membrane, then the siding gets re-installed to counter-flash the membrane adhered to the wall.
Keep a garden hose, a bucket of water and 1-2 ABC fire extinguishers handy and maintain a FIRE WATCH for a minimum of 1 hour after you are done using the torch, looking for smoldering smoke and underlying hidden heat remaining.
I don't like to see untrained people doing this type of roof, because even supposed trained roofers start fires all the time and you should take out an additional insurance policy for your work through your home owners poicy by adding a rider or umbrella coverage, but you are probably going to be doing this anyways, so at least have a guide to do it right.
Many roofers may disagree with some of the methods, like the 4" overhang, folding onto the exposed gable fascia and then secured with a termination bar and screws, but for your situation, it leaves less chances for any seams to come loose from a sheet metal flashing, but the exposed 4" overhang will be something you need to consider cosmetically, otherwise use the Primed Sheet Metal Flashing version.
I've got all the fire precautions taken care of as much as possible.
thanks for your time and detailed information.
You are welcome.
Remember the philosophy of the famous architect, Mies Vanderow (sp?)
"Less Is More"
Less heat when torching and rollong the material out. You do not have to make it liquid like tar in a kettle, just starting to melt. Also pass the torch wand over the seam that it is going to overlap so it is a bit more tacky too.
But, BE SAFE!!!
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